usaf_daddy

So I'm trying to get my emergency brake working again, on my 1970 510, but I am missing the end from the arm to the cable. Anyone have any pictures of this or a part number? https://www.flickr.com/gp/136196048@N05/MALQGL

I had a very similar issue, my problem was after 40 years my wire harness had been hacked so many times the connections were falling apart. The ground wire for the lights of the gauge cluster is the black wire in the #2 position of the plug best solution is to trace it and fix all connections or ground it to the dash frame like was mentioned above and I did as well and have no more issues Sounds like your high beam switch broke where it makes contact behind the steering wheel and as you go over bumps it will intermittently make contact, sounds unrelated to the dash lights to me.

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Picked this up recently, the manifold has no marking on it at all but looks to be in good shape and carbs are 44mm and are in decent shape as well. Just wanted to see if anyone has any knowledge of this.

factory dual carb set-up http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/4711220836.html Sorry try this link I think it's for an A series motor

Sorry I didn't realize how much this topic has been covered! Unfortunately im seeing all the hack job cars come out of the woodwork in this area and trying to haggle with a teenager with a pile of rust how thinks he is sitting on a gold mine hurts my head. Im going to find a yugo get a maaco paint job put 18's on it and see if I can get $10,000 hahaha

Can't find a car worth the price. I deployed last year and wanted another 510 possibly a 240 or 260 maybe even a 610 when i returned home but now that I'm back prices have gone crazy... so what happened? I bought my first 510 in 08 for $1700 and its a decent car but now cars are going for no less than 5000 for a rust bucket with no floors!

go to your local napa store and grab a can of engine fogging oil follow the instructions on the can I have used it when I deploy and the car sits for long periods of time. I have never had any issues with restarting the car when I get back i have also drained the carb cause letting the gas evaporate against needle and seats and other gaskets is never good.

Check your fuel pressure sitting all the time will do no good to a fuel pump it may idle with a bad fuel pump but no go under load. Also smell your oil for gas another sign that it has gone bad

Well it's an easy just not cheap solution to having a box of carb parts. Just remember that too many people do a carb rebuild when it's not needed I got the story of the "carb needs to be rebuilt" when I got my car. When I got it home I could have driven a truck through the points and the plugs were fouled he stopped driving it cause it stopped running and assumed it was the carb at fault (the mistake that so many make) I didn't even touch the carb the car ran fine after replacing the ignition components. Not trying to rain on your new purchase just make sure everything is in good order when adjusting the weber that will make it easier.

I know I'm a noob to this forum but I've had my 510 for a few years I used the manual choke weber on mine l16 but sometimes I wished I kept the hitachi. So what's wrong with your stock carb? I found that the weber 32/36 almost too much for my l16 and I run on the rich side no matter what I do and have to play with it too much. I ran the hitachi for two years and never really had to mess with it but got ambitious and wanted power so got a weber didn't really notice too much change other than I'm playing with it too much. So now I'm doing a engine swap ( after its done of course) for the power I want. Plus the stock carb will save you money for all the other stuff that you find that needs to be replaced once you start driving it.

The water damage was bad after I pulled the head I filled the cylinder with PB and let it sit for a few days still had to pound the piston out with a block of wood and a hammer. I took a ball hone to it just to see if I could remove the rust build up that made it better but not enough to make me feel comfortable running it without a trip to the machine shop plus I don't think I did the top of that piston any good by pounding on it. I did find that some water made it into the oiling system I pulled the slugs at both ends of the block and cleaned the oil passages with pipe cleaners wanted to check the passages on the crank any ideas on how to do that?

Got it from a guy that ran it for about 8000 mi on a rebuild, then pulled it for a ka swap. He put it in his back yard for a winter uncovered got water into the #4 cylinder so it had some water damage. Other than that it all looks good.

I'm looking at the summit racing website they show two different part numbers for the l20b... Has anyone purchased the silvolite pistons if so are they any good? and what part number? It's for my l20b daily driver and maybe some weekend fun. Any suggestions?

IT'S OFF! Thanks to everyone for the quick replys the heat worked you nailed it boaty it was "glued" together with Indian head it also took a "bigger hammer". This really is the best Datsun forum out there!