afracer

You'd need a stumpy 5 speed gearbox from a 2wd nissan truck to be close on the gear stick hole.

They don't come with any instructions or labeling and the cap is not a oem unit, so whenever it wears out I have no idea what to replace the cap, and possibly rotor with.

I have this issue from time to time when the lights haven't been used in a while they'll take a minute with the switch on before it finally energizes and lights come on. Try leaving them on for a while and see. Ultimately as mentioned I believe it to be dirty contacts in the headlight switch that need cleaning and dielectric grease.

Could've used an A10 stock or aftermarket front sway bar instead of the Maddat one!

I don't know if the shock will fit or not but don't plan to keep the coil spring on it without some added bracing to the shock mounts on the top and bottom.

They're a fixed distance until they're not. Is a 280zx steering column swap an option? Do the 810 and S130 crossmembers maintain that exact same distance between the two?

Kicking up an old thread due to lack of clarity and as I'm getting closer to installing an L28 into my 810. A little more explanation is desired; why did you not use the ZX crossmember since it supposedly bolts into the 810 and already has the rack mounts? Why did you use the shorter 240Z steering piece when more length really seems to be needed to reduce u joint angles?

A worn ignition switch could be the cause of your starter issue; it's a cheap and easy replacement that probably needs replacing regardless. Otherwise I'd drop your transmission and ensure the flywheel isn't damaged and also ensure your engine plate is there between the engine and transmission.

You're kidding, right? There are several offerings for the 210/Sunny B310 listed on Ebay.

No O2 sensor as this entire setup is from 1978. Nissan didn't incorporate O2 sensors on the Sunny until 81-82 and those ECUs and harnesses are impossible to find. Fuel pressure matters when you're using a much larger pump than the original fuel pump, especially when the base fuel pressure at idle is only supposed to be 28.5 psi, my wideband agrees.

Car is up and running with the factory EFI. Still have a little bit of tuning involved hopefully this weekend I'll get time but even untined it runs better than ANY other induction setup I've had on an A series engine; to include stock, modified stock, Weber DGV, twin SUs, and twin 40 Dellortos. Extremely impressed. Right now it's a little rich, so first tried an adjustable FPR which helped a bit, but not enough, I'm going to try a 10k ohm potentiometer on the coolant temp sensor as I'm out of adjustment on a 5k ohm, then if its still rich I'll have to open up the AFM and turn the spring/gear a few more notches leaner. But it's very close, warm idle and light cruise is 13.8 to 14.0, just want it up more around 15.0. In any case this has really made me lose all taste for any and all carbs ever again.

Cusco makes brand new H165 LSDs

Fitted some freshly restored SSR Reverse Mesh wheels that I rebuilt myself. Pure sex! I've been waiting to put the right size JDM wheels on my baby for a VERY long time. It had Watanabe RS8's but they were too big (16") and wrong offsets having to run spacers. These are 15x7.5 and 15x8 with 195/45 on front and 245/40 on back. Now just need to figure out an electrical gremlin so I can drive it around again!

Any 280Z or ZX wheels should do the trick!

Created an Air tight seal on the fan shroud to radiator and between the radiator and condensor using foam weatherstripping. It's all done and running except I haven't hooked up the electric fan yet as I'm waiting for a JDM 810 combination hazard switch to come in the mail. It has a separate rocker switch for parking lights that I'll use to turn fan on and off with an OEM look. Car runs smoother and quieter and cooler than ever thanks to the new belts, idler pulleys, and water pump although I still have to tighten the fan belt a little more. Torture test will be Wednesday and Thursday when we have record highs here but idling with AC on max it never got past halfway unlike before when it'd go to 3/4's after about 2 minutes. I still wish there was a drop in 810 aluminum radiator but this will do. Again, if it still runs warm I can always upgrade the fan now that I know it interchanges with 240sx/Skyline fans. It's gotta work good for when the turbo setup goes in!