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femtnmax

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    WY
  • Cars
    74 B210 coupe, 79 210 sedan, 89 sentra
  • Interests
    cars, and hiking/ skiing depending on the season

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  1. Hi What is the trick to installing the rear extension housing? There is the pivot piece that needs to engage the lowest shift rod, and the shift lever fore-aft rod needs to be in alignment to engage the two shift rods and the pivot when everything is in neutral. Thanks for your help. Phil
  2. If the shop is using Sunned equipment or similar quality brand to do the bore/hone you should not have any issue. After the machine work wash the cylinder bores with hot soapy water, rinse thoroughly and wipe dry to prevent rust. Don't over oil the cylinder walls or piston skirts...no oil on the new rings. Break the engine in kinda pushing it a little at first then harder...they say most of ring break in is within the first couple hundred miles, so don't go easy on it...get into it a little. Run it up down some hills like you said you had done, and do it right off the bat. There are 100 opinions how to do the details, sounds like your on top of it already. Glad to hear progress!!
  3. Read thru your hassle. Many good points made. Bottom line is all the rings did not seat properly. As mentioned, the rich fuel mixture can let the rings glaze over...Yo gotta fix the fuel issue before re-ringing the engine. The old ring ridge left at the tops of each cylinder as shown in your photo should have been removed; that's real poor the "machine shop" did not even tell you or correct this detail. Even a shade tree mechanic knows to remove cylinder ridge. The new pistons/rings with correct fuel mixture should fix the oil burning. The "old" trick to seat poorly seated rings is to run the engine to operating temp, then with throttle at steady 2000+ rpm slowly sprinkle in about a teaspoon of BonAmi kitchen cleanser....you want the old original formula...not the new product. Then take the vehicle out and run it kinda hard for 15 or 20+ miles. Then back home and change the oil. Chevy had BonAmi listed as a factory approved ring-seating method when they first started producing the high nickel blocks and had trouble with rings not seating. There have been many examples since then of top racers such as Smokey, Grumpy, etc sprinkling a little "magic dust" into their race motors on occasion. It does work, I would not over do it tho. Glad to see your redoing the pistons/rings.
  4. I'm only looking for improved cam lobe life. All three A14 used cams I have are showing damage to the downslope off the lobe peaks, and some chattering on the upslope on some lobes...I assume its from lack of enough spring pressure because I tested all the springs and the higher mileage springs showed the worse cam lobe damage, along with progressively weaker valve spring pressure. Sounds like I should go with shimmed OEM springs. Thanks for the feedback. As you say GGZ, for the little MPG intake ports I wasn't sure more valve lift would help. I'm sure a better lobe profile would help performance, but the car is for my wife, and she hates it when I soup things up too much. She used to have a 396 SS chevelle, and it scared the BG's out of her...now she's gun shy. So your saying the GA16 engine would bolt to a dog-leg B210 5 speed?? I have a 89 Sentra parts car w/ engine, a B210 sedan that needs engine OH, and a dogleg 5 spd under the bench. Sounds tempting.
  5. What are the spring rates for the factory dual spring? For my A14 the factory spec is 49-56 lb at 1.524 inch valve closed, and 120-138 lb at 1.189 inch valve open. I bought a set of OEM Nissan springs, part # 13203-H1000. Both seat and open pressures were below the minimum spec in the factory service manual. Adding a 0.030 inch shim brought the seat spec up to 56 lb, the factory max, and 124 lb at valve open which is at the low end of the factory spec. With the .03 shim at max valve lift there was only 0.060 clearance to coil bind, so I would not add any more shim. The Isky springs checked out with 80 lb seat pressure, and 150 lb open. The seat pressure is high, but the open pressure is only 12 lb over the factory max. I can imagine the stiffer springs would wear the old style brass valve guides. Does anyone have experience with the newer steel guides that are in the 1979-1980 heads I'm working with. I would think the newer guides would hold up better. The head I'm working with has 140,000 miles on it, and all the valves had very little valve stem wear. Only the exhaust guides were worn enough to need replaced. So the factory valve springs are easy on the valve train, but become weak enough to cause cam lobe damage over time. The engine is an A14 with dual pattern cam. I'm building for fuel economy and want it to run over 100k miles without issue. So I wasn't thinking of adding much performance beyond a compression increase to 10:1. I know, the wimpy valve lift at .335 inch is not much to talk about, but it appears to be easy on the parts. I have a 1989 Nissan Sentra with the GA1.6L 12 valve engine. That engine will run circles around the A14. I've toyed with the idea of putting the GA1.6 into the old 210, but havent worked thru the fit issues... That Sentra has 320,000 miles on it...its like just getting broke in...45-56 mpg and torque/power to really get around. The 56 mpg was a one time deal had a real good tank of gas, filled up at the Wyoming oil fields, you could just feel the power. 45-50 mpg is typical, not bad for an old beater. The fuel economy calcs are using highway marker miles, not the speedo, so no...I"m not cheating the numbers.
  6. Did you recheck the spark plug wires...two crossed wires will give some of your symptoms.
  7. IMO the only vacuum lines needed are 1 to the distributor advance from RH side of carb (ported vacuum), and 1 other to the air cleaner hot air flapper (I'm in a cold climate). GGZ is correct about putting the hoses back....someone may have mixed them around to bypass a problem. The one to the dist has a T in it and also routes to the charcoal canister. When did you last clean the PCV valve?? Its not the problem but take it out, it should rattle when shaken. Give it several good shots of carb spray from both ends of the valve...should rattle freely now. I always use Gumout brand, some green brands are a joke, polluting the environment with production of useless products. There is a bimetallic spring inside the air cleaner...on mine the springs were aged or bent by someone and made the engine miss on cyl 1 and partially cyl #2. I eliminated the bimetallic...it is there for hot climate...maybe someday I'll find a good bimetallic spring to try it out. I always take all those vac hoses off to eliminate problems like your having. IMO I would not put them all back on, but do as you see fit. ONe suggestion...take a photo of the current setup...then take ALL of them off, and block off at the carb...engine should idle and run ok...then add the dist vac advance and stop there. Have you ever rebuilt the carb??? there could be issues in the carb that the mixed up vac hoses are bandaid fixing. Your A15 should have come with electronic ignition if USA and 1980's. Find an A-engine electronic distributor with control module on the side...only takes two wires to hook it up plus need ignition coil to match the distributor...its a great improvement over points. If you find the dist...take it apart and clean/regrease/repair as required. Good luck.
  8. Pistons: I found some A15? pistons on ebay. My understanding is they reduced the piston dish in 1981-82? when they changed the cylinder head to the "deep" combustion chamber. The pistons I found are 0.20 inch overbore with shallow dish (4cc). With this combo it was easy to reach 10:1 static compression when using the quench combustion chamber; only milled the heads 0.008 inch so far to make them flat. On the A12 thats in my 74 B210 the pistons had a much deeper dish. I had to deck the block for pistons 0.005 out of the block and mill the crap out of the head to reach 10:1. Head gaskets are coming out at around 0.05 inch thick. More research today: Cam grinding....Elgin Cams and Delta Cams both regrind cams. Elgin lists alot more lift, great for performance but not so good for long life. I'll phone Delta and see what profiles they offer. Valve springs...Isky cams lists a dual spring for A-series Datsun. I'll be calling them, hope they still sell them.
  9. Hey out there....I'm new to this forum... I worked as a Datsun factory trained mechanic back in the 70's. They are great cars/trucks. Right now busy rebuilding the drivetrain on a 1979 210 2dr with a beautiful body:) I'm setting the engine up with MPG cylinder head, compression is 10.0 with pistons flush with block deck, thinking of doing some head milling and going for 10.3:1. (set up my 74 B210 with 10:1 and .045 quench & get 49 mpg tops with 4speed). For the 210 have finished a 5spd trany, took 2 years to find the parts w/o paying excessive. Cannot find the 3.54 rear axle ratio, so will live with the 3.7 ratio. The problem: valve springs are tired with 150,000 miles on the speedo. The lifters have been chattering off the tops of the cam lobes which has damaged most of the lobes. Cam/lifters need reground/resurfaced. Found a A14 cam in the local parts yard off a 78 F10 with only 106K miles, but the cam lobes are starting to show the same problem. Maybe its the EPA oil being sold these days which is not good for flat tappet cams. Where can the cam be reground to stock specs, can anyone recommend a cam grinder? I want a good job done, not quick and sloppy. Cam is the 248/256 seat duration dual pattern. Anyone found replacement valve springs? I've searching thru several sources... I'm finding some possibilities with Sealed Power but not all the specs are listed so not completely sure they will work correctly. Thanks for your help.
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