I'd get under the car and look at the slots in the cross member to see if all the adjustment is used up, The right side is still toed out, should be toed in, negative toe is toe out. Search the realm, Dime Dave explains it well.
Posted by docbainey
on 02 February 2017 - 08:57 AM
What Stoff said.
You could probably amass a small stable of L20s for cheap before you could find an L18, at least in this part of the country. Depending on your build level, if you are going to use forged pistons, just have them made to utilize longer rods, Z22 rods I believe?
This still leaves you with a gearbox problem though?
If you want to keep the same ride height, but stiffer. Weight the front end, divide by two, and that's the approx. weight on each front tire/spring. Measure spring perch to spring perch, that's ride height. Jack the car up, measure spring perch to spring perch. That's your minimum free length. Calculate the spring rate of the spring currently on the car. Knowing the weight of the corner of the car, you can calculate the compression of the new higher rate spring to achieve the same compression distance to maintain the same ride height, that's where free length and wire diameter and coil diameter come in..