dgi

This write-up is specifically for the tach you have with the white looped wire. The green and black are power and ground and on most 510s there is a corresponding connector usually taped to the harness with a green tape. You will need to create a harness to connect the ends of the white wire to the coil and distributor as described in the write-up. No, the white wire(s) do not connect to anything on the tach or inside the car. They MUST be extended to the coil and distributor as described. The loop creates the "induction" signal that drives the tach.

Then, have you seen this pair. Not nearly as pricey but maybe more rusty. https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/d/datsun-620-pickup-trucks/6771981362.html

Look at this one. https://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/d/1974-datsun-620-2wd-lil/6763481305.html

I'm pretty certain that I have a really good one in my parts stash. I will check tonight when I get home. If you are interested let me know.

Mattndew76, You mean something like this? The baseplate even has a machined in velocity stack.

Doesn't the switch just fasten to the back of the tumbler with two Phillips head screws? I've never looked at a 720 system, but my 280z and 510 work that way. I just took of the shroud, used a sort screwdriver, and voila! No need to even remove the locking mechanism. But, I'm sure a 720 owner can give you better info that I can.

Check this link http://www.nissanreference.com/datsuntruck/1966-1972

Did you view this post in the 610 group. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/71929-new-addition-to-the-family-73-610-wagon/ A picture in it shows the belt piece you need hanging on both sides of the car. Unfortunately, it doesn't show the ends. But your post above shows the what appears to be the correct fittings. I believe what you need is the same three piece setup that was in my 72 PL521, 72 PL510 and I think my current 73 PL510. I believe it was also in the 71 models. I won't be back to my 73 PL510 until Monday but I will try to get you some pictures of it then. Of course, my memory may be faulty. The chest belt fastens at the top with fitting #2 a few inches behind the door post and connects using fitting #1 to the third fitting you show which is attached to the end of the belt coming from the takeup reel. That then connects to the receiver which has about 14 to 16" of belt and is bolted to the driveline tunnel with a fitting very similar to fitting #2. It was such an awkward setup that I never used the chest belt in my PL521. I hope that helps.

Thanks for the responses. Pretty much what I was thinking, Not sure how the rubber will line up though. The bumpers are coming off before the 21st for the car to go to the paint shop. I will take a closer look then,

1978 Datsun 280z with the ridiculous park bench bumpers. Does anyone have any tips about moving the stock front bumper closer to the body? I know most everybody prefers the smaller bumpers of the early Z cars and I do too, But, at the moment I just would like to move the stock bumper back. If you have done it or have pictures of a Z with these bumpers moved back, I sure would appreciate a tip on how to do it or pictures of one already done. dgi

Never done this before.... how do you remove the drip rail trim on a 76 280z? Thanks in advance. dgi

Here is a solution for the hubcap (with one to spare). https://charlotte.craigslist.org/wto/6147259878.html

Hi Angela, The part you describe is the "condenser and fan" assembly. That is 1/3 of the system. Do you still have the "evaporator" that looks kind of like a radiator that sets in front of the actual radiator? What about the "compressor"? And the related hoses, dryer, etc.? In 1971, the AC kits for our Datsuns were all aftermarket and based on a York compressor, the same as used on big GM V8s. When they turned on, you felt like somebody put the car in reverse suddenly. They broke the mounting brackets routinely. Later, probably 1980 or so, Datsuns began to have factory AC based on Senko or Yenko compressors that took less power and were more efficient. Modern compressors are even more efficient. If you still have the compressor, post a pic of it and somebody will tell you what you have. dgi

I'll chime in with NC info.... Charlotte is growing rapidly and has a substantial job market currently. Housing is reasonable, but just a tick on the expensive side depending on which area you locate. Substantial financial, transportation, and many other major industries in the area. Of course, the Concord side of Charlotte is home to all of the NASCAR teams but competition for job openings in that group is stiff. Raleigh (the capital) is expanding so rapidly it is unbelievable. There are numerous IT related companies in that area such as IBM, Red Hat, Global Training, etc. that are expanding and constantly hiring. It also has a substantial medical, electronic, etc. research area called the Research Triangle Park located between Raleigh and Durham. Many job opportunities in that area. Greensboro / Winston-Salem / High Point is called the Golden Triad since the cities are all close together. Jobs in certain fields are being recruited for here currently. If you have any aircraft experience, then Greensboro is your bet. The new Honda business jet is being built here and they are constantly adding staff and space since the FAA just approved the jet. Large aircraft maintenance is done here with Timco and Haeco both located here. Harris-Teeter has a large distribution center here if you have experience in food distribution and warehousing. I live right in the center of the Golden Triad in a small town Kernersville, wihich is home to FedEx Ground and Air operations and lots of other transportation companies. So, add NC to you look at list. dgi