sackcheck

Is the Z24 (720) transmission the same length as the L20B trans? Will I need the z24 a drive shaft as well? Thanks for the fast reply guys :)

I was thinking about swapping my L20b out for a Z24 in my 1980 720 5 speed, Is there any problems I would run into or is it a pretty straight forward swap? Thanks!

I have a 1980 720 with a l20b and it starts knocking at 3k rpm. I do get one clunk in the morning when its been sitting over night but thats it. And it eats oil, every 500 miles I end up putting a little under a quart in. The engine must be burning it cause the outside is spotless, but it still passes smog with flying colors so I don't know? The guy I bought it form said he did an over haul and that was at 198k miles now it has 208k miles.

The new one is clean, I can see it flow and no rust particals yet. I guess I'll just pull the carb for a cleaning and see what I find. Just trying to avoid pulling the carb LOL, I need a pair of child hands to get to those nuts:)

Well the old fuel filter was stained red and clogged with rust. I checked the fuel level and its level with the dot on the glass. I noticed the little rubber accelerator pump boot is cracked again. And I found this tiny nipple coming off the vacuum line that goes to the brake master cylinder, I looked every where for a loose hose or another nipple its size but found nothing. Is this some sort of test nipple? Should I plug it?

I wasn't quite sure where to post first so I guess I will start in the 720 section My 1980 720 kingcab, l20b started cutting out while climbing hills with slow gradual grades (was fine on steep short steep grades). At first I just dropped down from 3rd into 2nd and the whole engine stalled, I pulled over popped the hood and didn't see anything obvious so I waited 5min and I took off and the problem went away. So I thought it was just a dirty fuel filter. I changed the filter and it still happens. I was coming home one day and it happened again after I came over a bridge and continued driving to examine the problem further. The rest of the ride home had no grade at all, but I wasn't able to get over 55mph without it cutting out and dropping me down to 40mph. I tried fifth, fourth, third, 1/4" throttle, 1/2" throttle, full throttle and no change it would just cut out harder when at higher rpm. Things I know that are wrong with the truck but have had no effect cause they have been that way for over a year now are: A/B valve is disconnected and plugged due to cracked vacuum line, the gas level in the carb is a tad high after rebuild last year, alot of steam coming from tail pipe when warming up even on a warm day but haven't lost any coolant due to it, and for some reason don't know why I randomly hear this clicking of a relay under the dash from time to time, theres no pattern sometimes its slow sometimes its a fast on off click? I also installed a new fuel pump (mechanical) early last year, and installed a manual choke last year too (quick classy fix works fine). I'm kinda off limited on time to track down a cause do to all this rain and no garage to work in. So any ideas where to start would be awesome Thanks!

I looked up a a/c compressor for the 720 on kragen.com and at the bottom of the page it showed a link that said "see all vehicles this product fits" after clicking the link a window pops up showing the other vehicles which included the 1979 620, and the Stanza 1982-85. There are two different kinds of compressors for the 720 a single and a double pulley compressor. At a glance it looks like a single but a closer look reveals that it also powers the pump with a second belt. Would this make it a dual pulley? :confused: I'm just trying to avoid paying $300+ for a new one. I'm sure many can understand.:)

Is the ac compressor the same on all the L20B engines? I have been looking for a compressor for my 1980 Datsun 720 but cannot find any or info about them. I hoping there are many Datsun/Nissan's models that share the same compressor. Any info would greatly help. Thanks!