H20doctor

wont work ... your exhaust manifold has to mach the block ... round to round , square to square

so i figured out what im going to do to have the new rear lights all work... I went to Vetco in Bellevue and bought 2 switches .... im going to mount one for the left signal and the other for the right Inside the turn signal steering column... the turn signal lever will trip the switch, then thrown that voltage into a flasher , then out of the flasher to the rear signal lamp

yep .... I know ..sorry guys So has anyone done a different type of Turn signal conversion for the 620 truck ? using some other type of Flasher , or re wire Set up from the steering Column ?

i was Kidding ..... just trying to be funny on the internet

thats not a stock flasher ... mine has 3 tabs

i would assume since the flasher is 3 pronged .... 1 tab is voltage in .... the other 2 tabs are left and right ...

So what Is the red Wire For off the Tail light Plug ? reverse Light Also another question .... What If i ran a spliced wire Off of the Turn signal Flasher .. Under the Dash ... The Silver 3 Pronged Cylinder .... theres Got to be a way to re route a Blinker voltage signal ...

So i am installing new tail lights from Ebay ... got the set up from the Philippines ... Here is the question ... Main plug Has 4 wires .. black (ground)... Green... Green/white.. Red the New set up Has 4 Bulbs ... As of now the Green wire runs the brake and turn signal ... Red wire ? green/white ? no clue both the turn signal and 1 of the brake red sections come on at the same time when applying the brakes and using the turn signal ... I know I can run 12 volts to the back red side markers for my night time running Red rear tail light. So here is the question .... I want the Amber Orange turn signals to come On separately when i use my turn signals ... I know this needs to be done Up on the steering Column somewhere on the turn signal soldier board.. How do Isolate the trurn signal wire to not be shared with the Brake Light ? thanks IM

i have a MSD on my truck now for over 20years .... you need to follow the instructions and test for spark from the MSD Red Box ... Correct , You Do not Run the White resistor in between the coil ... Looks like a white brick , 4 inches long you also Do not use the Condenser, round Barrel thing, inside the distributor ... you Only need to run the Points ... CHECKING FOR SPARK If triggering the ignition with the White wire:1. Make sure the ignition switch is in the “Off” position.2. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and set the terminal approximately 1/2" from ground. 3. Disconnect the MSD White trigger wire from the distributor. 4. Turn the ignition to the On position. Do not crank the engine.5. Tap the White wire to ground several times. Each time you pull the wire from ground, a spark should jump from the coil wire to ground. If spark is present, the ignition is working properly. If there is no spark skip to step 6 I also changed the way i used to turn the MSD box on when starting my 620 Truck .. I used to Have the Red wire running into the truck and then On the fuse Box to a Fuse that turned on when i started the truck.. this worked solid for ever, until a few years ago when I wasnt getting a full twelve volts on this wire, being sent back to the MSD box... i was Getting Low infrequent voltage being sent back to the box wich caused the MSD system to misfire and shut Off .. I now Runt the red wire , switched 12 volts ... into the cab, hooked Up to a Toggle switch .. bottom tab, then Back directly to the battery.. This way the MSD always get a full 13 volts of power keeping it on and running

i have seen engine blocks for 400 to 800.... transmissions i see listed for 300 to 600 .. it all depends on the seller and what " they" think it worth ? some people have rebuilt stuff and think it worth Gold !!!

looks interesting .... http://nissanfest.us/#about

So then my 4 Door is worth $7000 dollars .... Sweet ....

im not Here as much either , and I agree with the observation ... My opinion is that the Older generation of datsun enthusiasts are no longer on this forum, and the younger generation is , thats why its difficult ...

it would appear and I found a stuck frozen exhaust valve .... Why it seized ? no clue , i drove it for an hour ... came home , Next day .... engine noise .... So yes everything got tore down , the engine bay is empty , i am waiting for some warmer dry weather to paint the Bay... I have a fresh rebuilt Block , new pistons, rings , hot tanked , cleaned ready to go , with a New rebuilt U67 head... Port and Polished intake / exhaust... new webber to Boot also ....