ap72license

At the ends of the spectrum O2 readings are not that accurate, wide band or not, if you drilled these jets there's also the issue that drilled jets are not always that accurate. That being said it seems you found a way to get in the middle, I'd try that and see what happens.

There's really no reason to not use a vacuum canister for both the brakes and the vac advance. And depending on what you want to do with the brakes you can change to a larger or smaller master cylinder to change the brake pedal pressure. If wanting a softer pedal to help compensate for a lack of power assist then you would want to go to a smaller master cylinder. Pedal travel will increase though.

I thought he may have meant an electric vacuum pump, but it would be simpler to just change his master cylinder, run a vacuum canister, or run hydraulic assist.

carb vents need to be left open there should be no fuel return line but in some rare cases I have seen one electric vaccum line? Not sure what you are trying to say here. Regarding vac advance the optimal setup would be to run a line from each runner to a small vac canister and then run a line to your vacuum advance- this will dampen the pulses. you can run a vac line from a single intake runner to the vac advance canister as well, in all truth you may not notice much difference. always mount your fuel pump as close to the bottom of the tank as you can, no fuel pump "prefers to suck". Space constraints may not allow an ideal mounting location but get as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. Also, mount your fuel filter AFTER the pump, yes it leaves the pump open to contaminants, but it will also work better, you're more likely to ruin a fuel pump from placing the filter before it rather than after it.

it can show lean or rich at the same displacement depending on many variables, don't just take it for granted. BUT it is safer to run a little rich than lean, so when in doubt tune to the slightly rich side. Too far to the rich side and you'll wear your engine out much more rapidly.

displacement will have little to do with carb jetting, the exact model of carb, cam timing, intake and exhaust design, etc will all play a factor. If possible I reccomend spending the money for a wideband oxygen sensor setup, or going a step further and a budget datalogging system. Will make a HUGE difference when trying to tune.

The guide by DIY is to get you started. You are also not running sequential injection and it is not for final tuning. Idle tuning should never be done with an oxygen sensor but rather by the vacuum signal. When the idle is properly tune it will more than likely we fall in between 12 - 13 to 1. The optimal idle mixture will always be richer than 14.7. You want the leanest mixture that will provide the highest vacuum signal seen at your target idle rpm.

At 12.5:1 or so the idle afr's are NOT "rich". Thats where you normally find the optimal idle. As noted bigger cams and such will want a richer setting. 14.7:1 is where you have complete combustion under laboratory conditions. An operating engine does not replicate those conditions, particularly when air speed and distribution is suffering (idle). The only time you should be at or slightly over 14.7 is at cruise, and even then you won't want to be more than about 15.5 or fuel consumption will start to go up.

Dolomite, are you running vacuum advance? If not that is likely why your afr's appear really high at light throttle. The mixture isn't fully burned yet. Timing will affect the readings of the oxygen sensors and of course the combustion efficiency.

That's somewhat incorrect, but close. Idle afr's will almost always be around 12.5:1 when optimal. They need to be uned for maximum vacuum signal, which is somewhat hard to do with IR carbs. Cruise should be a little leaner, around 15-15.5:1 for optimal mileage. Max power will usually be produced around 12.2-12.9:1 afr's. Make sure your timing is correct first. It will affect your afr readings.

My buddy Tony can make you a manifold, he just made me one for the zx14R ITB's to bolt to my Ford 2.3L. He's a little backed up on work right now but he always appreciates more business.

May need to adjust your air bleeds as well. Just throwing more jet at it may cause it to run overly rich. Need to look at part throttle operation too, could just need a needle or spring adjustment.

I'm sure it will, and I'd rather beat on the metal a little than cut and weld- all I have is a rod welder and a fluxwire welder- neither is suited to an oil pan. I may have to weld the pickup tube though. Not excited about that. Anyone know of a good junkyard that I can call? Paying $120 for a new pickup is out of the question, the same thing on a sbc would cost me about $5 new.

Update: The clearance between the pan and the girdle was off by about 1/2". I saw that someone used the pan and just cut it and inserted a section of steel to make up the 1/2" difference. My method was as follows: beat the snot out of it to get the extra 1/2" clearance. My method worked quite well and took me about 10 minutes as I checked fitment 4 times to make sure I didn't get too carried away. Next issue- the pan was SUPPOSED to come with the pick up tube. It did not and I cannot find a used one on ebay. Does anyone have a lead on where I can find a used D21 oil pickup tube? My other option is to cut/weld the front sump pan tube, but I would prefer just to use the D21 tube that I know works without issues. I also need to address the dipstick still. and FWIW, my combo is as follows- KA24E from a 240sx with a fresh rebuild, ported head, and ZX9R carbs. going into a '73 MGB with the 240SX 5 speed trans.

I'm needing help finding the correct rear sump pan for a KA24E out of a 240sx (has the main bearing girdle). I purchased a rear sump pan from a frontier, and the damn thing won't fit with the main bearing girdle. $45 down the drain.