ByStickel

I'm hoping that this project isn't dead. I've been researching this swap for a 4-door rally replica build. I have a TSX donor, but might look for something that already comes oriented for RWD. The cost of K24 conversion parts seems to add up pretty quickly. Other 4cyl RWD: Miata, SLK/C230, Z3&4/3-series, various compact trucks/SUVs.

Saw a Diesel 5-speed trans for sale and wondered if those are L-series compatible. And what the internal ratios may be, wide or close ratio. Didn't immediately find what I needed on the webs. Thanks!

Mike, you're amazing. Yeah, the intake angles the carbs up, just like the SSS, but the only pics I could find of the SSS set-up showed a slightly different set of tabs on the long, rotating link rod. Oh, and the airbox is light blue. Around 1996, I found a complete 411SSS in a SoCal pick-your-part. At the time, I thought 'yuck'. Now would be different.

(X-posted in Roadsters) I picked these up, not knowing exactly what they are. I thought Roadster, but now am thinking 411. Does anyone know what they're from? They came with the long vertical return tubes and a front-mounted coolant shut-off valve, btw.

UPDATE: Mystery solved. this is a '67 411 SSS intake. Same carbs as the Roadster, but different manifold to fit the sedan. Thanks to those who helped. Picked this up from a yard that was closing. It was already removed, and stashed with other Nissan parts. I assumed it was standard 1600 roadster, but I'm not finding any info on this manifold. It's different from what most Roadsters are running. I'm stumped.

I then looked for some material to make shims. In a victory for hoarders everywhere, I located the stainless strips I saved from my last set of old wiper blades. I could just fit 2 shims per side without the parts binding. Rather than trying to re-line the groove, I decided to enlarge my male bits, which sounds cooler than it is. After a few tries, I was able to bend up pieces that 'wrap' the protrusions, and once the parts are assembled, there's no possibility of them falling off; they're captured. The last pic shows the parts together. The end cap will be reinstalled and peened. There's very little play, and the parts move freely. After reassembling the transmission cases (really tricky), I installed the shifter and checked to see if it worked. It did, and I can get reverse with no issue. Cool. (2 weeks after buying this trans, I found another, already pulled, at another yard, saving it right before the yard was scheduled to be emptied, and everything crushed. This second dogleg seems to be in great shape, with no obvious issues. Now I have 2. I'm all set.)

I asked around about used parts, but wasn't able to locate anything. The 63A hasn't been overly popular because people hate 'different', and many folks believe they're going to go with huge horsepower in their cars... but never do. It's not surprising that parts aren't easy to come by. So, I decided to fix it. Here are images of the Striking Guide (shifter mount) and Striking rod (what the base of the shifter rests in and moves fore and aft) You can see the rectangular male features in the former, and the grooves in the latter. Both are worn out. I ground the grooves to make the entire length of the slot 'worn out'.

Came here for amazing Datzenmike knowledge. Leaving satisfied! I'm going to keep those stock internals. Thanks guys.

I just picked up a set of really nice ZX struts at the yard; no rust, great calipers, like-new pads, and unworn (but rusty) rotors. Cheap, too! When I went to remove the insert, I found that they still have the OEM open-bath internals. I drained the oil, which still had color to it, and had the following questions: 1. With the ZX being a bit heavier, why does nobody mention using ZX internals, either OE or aftermarket, on their 510? Too stiff, too soft? 2. If the answer to the above it that the ZX damping is great for 510s, then is there a reason to avoid the OE open-bath internals, provided it's all in good shape? I like the idea that I can alter oil weight, and possible alter the ratio of compression-to-rebound. 3. How do you remove those OE internals. A moderate pull didn't do it. Is there a trick? Thanks!

Went out to the closest old-school salvage yard yesterday. Closed. The owner died of Covid. Bummer for everyone. The yard is closing, and about 1000 vintage cars are getting crushed.

Please take this in the spirit of cooperation that is meant. When people use terms like "The anti gun, anti free speech, anti liberty crowd are zealots..." it automatically puts anyone with a differing opinion on the defensive. I'm sure you've heard similar stereotyping directed at you, too. It shuts down the possibility for an open exchange. I've had good talks with people who have wildly differing opinions, and the key has always been to find common goals and to express how any change I desire isn't an attack on anyone.

First, this is amazing. Thank you! Ignorant questions to follow. I looked through a bunch of pages of this thread, but still want to know: Is there one spot where we can see the entire list of available files, or is it only through clicking on links in the posts here? Thanks to Photobucket, I (we?) can't see the images, so it's hard to tell what manual the links sends us to. Is there a work-around for that? The first few pages had all broken links for me (Google 404). And a request for each file had to be submitted. Is that right? Is there someplace we can donate to the cause to help ease the pain of all that scanning? Are there some trusted folks who can help out? Thanks again! I hope that nothing I asked seems at all critical.

I just searched his name and variations on drag racing, Datsun. etc. There was also an obituary for a Robert Duarte, but I couldn't be sure it's the same person. If so, it might be interesting to reach out to his kin to see if they had any images that could be added to the web's Datsun digital history. I must have had something boring that I should have been doing...

It made the magazines, and you can buy a copy: https://jimsmegamagazines.com/popular-hot-rodding-1989-may-new-corvette-tpi-mods/p-24481.html

This is the part where we reveal the killer (of my shifting.) This is the Striking Guide, or as we know it, the shifter mount. The shift lever ("Control Arm") has been removed, and we're looking down into the interior where the Striking Rod resides. I failed to mention that it's the Striking Rod that moves front-to-back, selecting 1st or Reverse, 2nd or 3rd, and 4th or 5th. The two parts together tilt to select the gate, and they need to stay timed to each other. They do so with a keyway on each side of the Striking Rod. The Striking Guide has 'keys' permanently added to lock the Rod's rotation in. And it all needs to stay clean and lubed, or it will wear out. Rubber dries out and crumbles. Road grit gets in. Metal on metal with some fine grit thrown in... leads to worn out keyways (and some making its way inside the trans, too). This lets there be excessive play between the Guide and Rod, and that's why my Striking Lever sags, and why it is contacting 2-3 when I want it to only touch 1-Rev. The smartest and 'easiest' fix is to open up the trans and replace the worn parts. Putting it back together is a real chore. So, keep your shifter...um, Control Arm and Striking guide... sealed! It's pretty important. I'm going to try to find a better used Guide and Rod. That's my next task. Please PM me if you have an extra.