I installed the 620 master cylinder and got the car running. The one small issue was finding a 3/8" plug for the unused port on the 4-way junction. The ones I could find didn't have enough threads to seat properly and would leak. I finally found one with literally an extra mm of threads from Speedway Motors. I installed that and took the car for a spin. I still need to do a full bleed of the brakes, since I can tell there is air in the system still. I'll get my GF to pump the brake pedal for me this weekend...
The 620 MC fits really well, except the foremost reservoir sits very close to the air cleaner.
So I bought a dual bore master cylinder for a 620 from Rockauto (despite my grudge against them). I bought the Centric one (#13042102) since it has the bleeder screws on the right side, away from the clutch master. It fits perefctly except that the forward reservoir is a liitle close to the air cleaner housing. Also, the brake pedal pushrod needed to be 1/4" longer to make up for the ne new mc not protruding as far intot he cabin as the stock 411 mc. I ended up buying a couple of parts from Pegasus Racing to make a new pushrod. I bougth a steel clevis and a 7" Girling pushrod that I cut down by 3". It ended up being a pretty nice pushrod assembly nearly identical tot he stock one but with built-in adjustability.
Here it is assembled:
And installed on the new master cylinder (top) with the old stock 411 master cylinder for comparison:
Then I made up some new brake lines. I'm running the front circuit from the master cylinder to the 4-way junction on the firewall. I'm going to plug the outlet at this juction that goes tot eh rear brakes. Then I'll run use a female/female coupling to tie the existing rear brake line to this short intermediate line which will run tot he rear circuit on the master cylinder.
Here are my two new lines on top and the old line on the bottom.
I got everything installed and bled the master cylinder after I got it all hooked up. Tomorrow I'll bleed the rest of the system and take it for a spin!
I finally started installing the RL disc brakes. I sandblasted and painted everything. This was the fist time Ive ever used a sang blaster. Its fun! I used grey Por15 on most of the parts and VHT caliper pain on the calipers. I rebuilt the calipers and pistons with parts from Rockauto. I reused the wheel bearings that came with the set up since they seemed pretty good still. I used Timken 1188 seals that are narrower than the originals but I think will work. I found 311 brake hoses on Ebay for about $45 and they fit perfectly. I only installed the drivers side, I'll do the passenger side tomorrow. I bled the system and have a really nice hard pedal. The only problem is the hub diameter at the wheel is larger than before so the .25" wheel spacer I was using doesn't fit, so I need to find new spacers or spend several awful hours filing the center on the ones I have.
I just made a really nice simple and cheap mod to my 411. My car is lowered about 2" in the front and the stock (old, hard) rubber bump stops were about 3/4" away from the frame and would bottom out pretty often. I bought a pair of Chevy S10 ZQ8 type bump stops (Dorman #31064, http://www.summitrac...parts/RNB-31064 ) as replacements and they are AWESOME. The ride is so much better now.
These bump stops are made of pretty soft delrin and are designed to compress progressively. In lowered S10s they will touch the frame at rest.
The mounting stud on the bushing is too short so I hammered it out and replaced it with a 2" 9/16 carriage bolt. This will fit in the existing hole in the lower a-arm. I added 4 washers to shim the bushing higher and closer to the frame, so I have it about 3/4" from the frame at rest. This is the same distance as the old bump stop, but since this bushing is much softer and compresses progressively it actually increases the amount of suspension travel but still cushions it fine.
The bump stops are aout $10 each. I had the 2 bolts and 8 washers laying around, but those probably cost less than $2 total.
I've been saving up money in oder to do my J13 rebuild. The thing is, it's better to tear down the engine and have a look at everything before buying parts. That could make this a longer process since I might have to wait for some things pieces to become available. I hope to start the process in the next couple of months.
1300 engine, 4 speed manual. Runs great, a real original survivor car. Won an award at the 2007 Motoring J Style show. Has been featured on Jalopnik.com and Bringatrailer.com. Barely any rust (only one small rust hole on the quarter panel), rust-free floors & rockers. Everything on this car works.
It could use upholstery & carpets to be complete. If you are the shiny paint type, then maybe some new paint. Personally, I like the patina thats 40 years in the making.
It's lowered a little bit by cutting the front coils and adding 1" blocks in back. I have a second set of stock coils also. KYB gas-a-justs all around.
Original CA black & yellow plates.
In Alameda, CA 94501. Price is FIRM @ $4000.
Here are a bunch of pics (note that it does now have the front bumper back on):