whatwouldjessedo

That's awesome!

Maybe it would be cool to scan them into PDFs to share with everyone. There are some good tech articles,a nd they do have historical value.

Wow, they are gone already!

Hi all, I'm cleaning out my garage, and I found a stack of old issues of '510 Again', the Datsun 510 newsletter. I have issues from August 1995, and February-November 1996. Anybody want them? Just PM me your address, and I'll send them out to you. ~Jesse

Are RL411 rotors available anywhere?

but they could.... :thumbup:

I entered my 411 in the JCCS show in Long Beach. Anyone else going? Also, I think it's time for me to sell this thing... I wonder what 411s going for thee days... https://goo.gl/photos/hCqroXkFZED9LTu76

In case any one is interested. It's not mine.... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5010251762.html

Thanks Jesse, Thats' really great info. I just received my gasket/seal set from Kentigo this week. I'll go look for those other one you bought to round out the set. I'm hoping to have time today to go talk to a machine shop about doing work for this rebuild. I'd like to get it happening soon! I

I installed the 620 master cylinder and got the car running. The one small issue was finding a 3/8" plug for the unused port on the 4-way junction. The ones I could find didn't have enough threads to seat properly and would leak. I finally found one with literally an extra mm of threads from Speedway Motors. I installed that and took the car for a spin. I still need to do a full bleed of the brakes, since I can tell there is air in the system still. I'll get my GF to pump the brake pedal for me this weekend... The 620 MC fits really well, except the foremost reservoir sits very close to the air cleaner.

I was going to look for replacements for mine soon too. I think we will have to just find similarly sized rubber/polymer bushing from another application. Have you removed yours yet? I've been wondering what their exact shape and dimensions are. ~Jesse

So I bought a dual bore master cylinder for a 620 from Rockauto (despite my grudge against them). I bought the Centric one (#13042102) since it has the bleeder screws on the right side, away from the clutch master. It fits perefctly except that the forward reservoir is a liitle close to the air cleaner housing. Also, the brake pedal pushrod needed to be 1/4" longer to make up for the ne new mc not protruding as far intot he cabin as the stock 411 mc. I ended up buying a couple of parts from Pegasus Racing to make a new pushrod. I bougth a steel clevis and a 7" Girling pushrod that I cut down by 3". It ended up being a pretty nice pushrod assembly nearly identical tot he stock one but with built-in adjustability. Here it is assembled: And installed on the new master cylinder (top) with the old stock 411 master cylinder for comparison: Then I made up some new brake lines. I'm running the front circuit from the master cylinder to the 4-way junction on the firewall. I'm going to plug the outlet at this juction that goes tot eh rear brakes. Then I'll run use a female/female coupling to tie the existing rear brake line to this short intermediate line which will run tot he rear circuit on the master cylinder. Here are my two new lines on top and the old line on the bottom. I got everything installed and bled the master cylinder after I got it all hooked up. Tomorrow I'll bleed the rest of the system and take it for a spin!

I finished up the disc install and took the car for a quick spin last night at around midnight. The pedal feels good but the front-/rear balance is off. It's fairly easy to get the rear wheels to lock up under quick braking, so I will need to install a proportioning valve. I think RL411s have an inline valve on the firewall maybe? It would be great to find a factory valve, but if not I'll get an adjustable one. I'll drive it some more later today and then check to see if the front brakes are dragging at all. If they are that means that the stock PL411 master cylinder has a residual valve that keeps a small amount of line pressure, which is good for drum brakes but not good for discs. If that is the case I'll probably go with a 620 master, but otherwise the stock master will do just fine. Anybody know how the RLs or Roadsters have their brakes balanced front to rear? Is there a prop valve somewhere in the system? ~Jesse

I finally started installing the RL disc brakes. I sandblasted and painted everything. This was the fist time Ive ever used a sang blaster. Its fun! I used grey Por15 on most of the parts and VHT caliper pain on the calipers. I rebuilt the calipers and pistons with parts from Rockauto. I reused the wheel bearings that came with the set up since they seemed pretty good still. I used Timken 1188 seals that are narrower than the originals but I think will work. I found 311 brake hoses on Ebay for about $45 and they fit perfectly. I only installed the drivers side, I'll do the passenger side tomorrow. I bled the system and have a really nice hard pedal. The only problem is the hub diameter at the wheel is larger than before so the .25" wheel spacer I was using doesn't fit, so I need to find new spacers or spend several awful hours filing the center on the ones I have. Here are some pics: