Nathyne

Nice Spiff! How did you adapt the SR20 CAS to the z24? I am holding off on ordering pistons for a little while as my rb26 is just getting finished up at the shop (melted a piston at 492whp two injectors were found to be out of spec) and there was some surprise head work with leaky valves. Once its all back and there are no more surprises I will start ordering parts. For now I am going to start on cleaning up the head, lapping valves and seeing if there are any casting lines I can knock down in the ports. Picture of my head just because, hopefully my spring compressor shows up soon! Edit: Realizing now that I am going to need to look into higher compression pistons as with a 57cc z22 head it will lower it too much. Was under the impression my z22 head was the 45cc but that is only z20s i believe. Will need to cc it once it is all cleaned up to be sure.

So leaning towards some forged pistons. Wiseco with 22cc dish and a 34mm pin height (same as ypu spiff?). If i calculated it correctly should be a 7.8:1 compression ratio and clear the valves hopefully! Will be taking he block and crank to the machine shop this week then will start ordering parts!

Very nice! Did you have to drill holes in the ka24de head gasket for any other passages? How did you seal the front timing cover? Isnt it different than the ka24e and z24? Did you cut any valve reliefs in the pistons? Thanks!

So after having this z22 sit in my garage I am going to start playing with it. It is out of a 720 that I swapped a ka24e into and got rid of a few years ago unsure of what car/truck it is going to go in at the moment thinking of finding a single cab rwd 720 for it (will need to go south to get one they rust to pieces up here) or a d21 that came with a z24i. Really just wanting to learn a bit while I mess up I mean rebuild this engine :). Parts for it are cheap (compared to an rb26dett :P) and seems to be a decent amount of info out there on them. Will be the first time measuring bearing clearances and such. The farthest I have been into an engine is replacing the shortblock on my subaru (fucking ej20s and their rod bearings). So far the plans are: z22 bottom end/head ka24e truck pistons cast iron ka24e ported to somewhat match z22 exhaust ports z24i distributor for a trigger z20e intake manifold speeduino/megasquirt z24 head gasket things I am still researching are: ka24 piston-valve clearance in a z22 (some posts seem to say the pistons will need reliefs but that may just be for bigger cams?) higher capacity oil pump turbo (have an old turbo off my rb26dett that may work if not maybe an rb20 turbo as they are dirt cheap and plentiful) boost/power goals thinking somewhere between 5-10psi would like to see 150whp would be over a 100% increase in power so might be a bit lofty rod/head bolts? L20B arp rod bolts most likely unsure if they will work will need to measure the ones I pulled out and see if I can find the specs on the l20b ones. I believe they take the same rods so may be in luck. Not too sure for head bolts they seemed quite tiny compared to the arp studs I used in my ej20k but they are also not going into an aluminum block. Still lots to read into, if anyone has done this before would love to hear from them.

Engine swap was quite easy has been running since the end of last summer now was the first thing i did to it then it sat all winter until a few weeks ago. should have my frame extensions tacked on soon and then should be smooth sailing finally have a couple days to work on it. nice sas hoping to keep mine a little lower will see how the height turns out hopefully tomorrow have a full day to work on it up travel will suffer I think. any plans of adding hydro assist?

Update! Got my steel 4 x 2 tubing .188 wall here are some pictures didn't like how small the frame became so extended the tubing way back and it will be welded the whole way then I wont be adding a bunch of extra leverage on the smallest part of the frame with the extensions The front will be chopped off after the cross member just welded the other plate on to keep it square when i tack it on. I am not finish welding any of it as I only have a 99$ cheapo flux welder just tacking it all on then paying someone to come and weld the rest maybe some day I will have a 240v welder... Should be putting on the frame and leaf spring brackets I made tomorrow hopefully will have her sitting on her wheels again soon! hoping to keep the lift no more than 6" but we will see how much up travel will suffer Also any recommendations for a transfer case? would love a d21 transmission with an atlas but that wont happen any time soon lol. will most likely just stick with the divorced one for now Another edit I picked up a tach cluster for 35$ and a new carpet (front was missing) for 8$ from pick n pull had two 720s! normally never have them :) now if I could find one with a good box or maybe a kc to swap onto mine... another stage later down the road I think :)

Wow those are a great price! Was going to get some from ruff stuff/fab some but I think my budget will like these a lot more glad i stumbled upon this the steel would be more than that for me to buy...

Nice build! check mine out went with the sas and engine swap right away wish i drove it for a bit first as I have had it for a year and a bit and have not even driven it a season yet... work is slow going with so many things to do http://community.ratsun.net/topic/39071-datsun-720-build/

Long overdue for me to work on my truck again have been quite busy with my car and some renovation projects recently. SAS is well under way have a narrowed dana 44 cut all the IFS out and ground most of it smooth still have a bit more to do of that also have some steel on order to make brackets. Pics: Ground down frame and just looking at where my leafs need to mount and stuff Shot of the housing under the truck. Once i get the rectangular steel tubing and flat stock I ordered I will start making the frame extension and the brackets for the leafs. Frame will be extended about 8-12 inches depending where I want my axle to sit. Have a picture of all the IFS crap I cut out but doesn't seem to want to send to my email... so that's it for now.

Doing some interior work on my truck and cant decide if i like it or not want some opinions. My truck had two gas gauges (ripped the aftermarket one out read half full when it was empty -.- luckily didnt find this out the hard way) Some aftermarket tach I think I may keep it but it is only a 2" one no idea where i would mount a bigger one that wouldn't look out of place though coolant temp doesnt work yet need to see if i can pull it off my z22 and put it on my ka24e. had some huge hack job of a stereo install with a shitty cut and was cut way too big tape deck was also held in with robby wood screws through the dash -.- Anyways here is the dash as it sits now painted the cluster black still need to sand it smooth again because i painted it in the wind and it turned out pretty bad but this is the general idea. can't tell in the pictures but the dash matches the trim pieces I made to cover the holes and metal left from previous install I am not sure if I want to make another piece that goes along the top or not. Water temp gauge is just resting in there will be an oil pressure gauge but that is still in the truck at the moment so I can start it and move it without oil oozing out of the line. Now as you can see there are a few small holes at the bottom from something unknown being mounted not sure if i want to fill them or just leave them as is they are quite small. Do the added gauges look out of place to you guys? oil pressure is black and matches tach when it goes in. Sorry if the post isn't the most coherent thing just can't decide! Thanks Nathyne

The one thing you will need to keep in mind is the wiring the d21 harness is intergrated with the chassis while the 240 harness isn't so I would get a 240 harness and ecu. Not sure what you would need to change to make it work with the d21 engine if anything at all but it is something to keep in mind. On my truck I used a 240sx ka24e and modified an oil pan from a d21 and modified the 240sx engine mounts apart from that it was a pretty easy swap. Wow never noticed how old this thread is my bad for bringing it up lol

Honestly I think you would be better off putting the work in to do a SAS instead of trying to fab something like that up. Interesting idea for sure though I think some kink of coil overs may be more feasible as well.

Yup I bought this webber because I was going to use the z22 engine but realized it just wouldn't be able to obtain the power levels i wanted so I swapped to a ka24e. It has literally maybe 5 kms on it filter is a tad dirty on the front somehow... and the clips holding the top of the filter on are a tad loose along. would sell it for 100$ plus shipping to anywhere firm. I'll post up some pics tomorrow. Thanks Nathyne

Here is my Datsun 720 named Bobette :) Started this progrect about 10 months ago or so Plans are: ka24e swap toyota axles front and rear (sas front obviously) Going to build it as lowish want to be able to tow stuff with it such as a small travel trailer (building one after i finish off my Skyline GTR and this truck) or boat cut and weld a ton of rust out want to try and save the bed unlikely i think though we will see paint dark blue add some bucket seats maybe upgrade my gtrs and use them turbo and intercool my ka24e going to keep it tame and just go for around 200whp so obviously some of this stuff is done :) pics incoming! Uploaded with ImageShack.us This is when i first got her z22 engine 235k kms paid 500$ Uploaded with ImageShack.us old tired dirty engine previous owner thought it burnt oil but really it ran so rich it bellowed black smoke was the slowest thing i have ever driven! including my 52hp diesel golf Uploaded with ImageShack.us pulling off body panels was going to fix all the rust in the front here but ended up just putting it back together will do rust repair next summer Uploaded with ImageShack.us replaced all my old bushing in my rear suspension these were a bitch x a thousand to get off Uploaded with ImageShack.us picture of the nasty on the box seam, scares me it is caked in bondo and paint is cracking everywhere on the box have a feeling there is more bondo than metal Uploaded with ImageShack.us out with the old! Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us in with the new! this is a ka out of a 240sx had 114kms and was very clean I had to modify the oil pan used a D21 and modded it to clear the block supports. Needed to modify the mounts just cut them in half set the engine where I wanted it with both halves bolted in then tacked pulled out and welded. Uploaded with ImageShack.us The very solid driver side mount under the lack of floorpan i cut out lol, cut the rusted part out welded some 1/8" plate and drilled a hole in it for a bolt. The bolt will stick slightly out of the floor but doesn't really bother me and it is holding the cab to the frame now at least! Uploaded with ImageShack.us New rims! off of a wagoneer replaced my old rusted steel ones has 30 inch tires on them for now, will most likely get 31-33s depending on how low i can do the sas just want to do mild off roading and pull 2-3000 lbs (hopefully my 4 speed can handle it? who knows lol ka d21s were rated to 3500 lbs so think i should be able to handle it may need to raise the back a bit more than the front so i don't lose flex off road and so it doesn't sag when pulling a trailer haven't really thought it through yet. That is all i have for pictures now seem to have lost the ones with my custom intake but not keeping it anyways going to relocate the battery and put the filter there any ideas where to relocate the battery to? thinking under the bed but then can't really drive through water can I? have an optima redtop to go in could silicone the terminals or something and stick it in a box can be waterproof with an optima right? it is a sealed battery. Anyways any opinions or suggestions feel free to post them this is my first project of the magnitude most stuff i do is swapping parts specifically designed for the vehicle :P Also next on the to do list is to pull off the bed grind/sand the frame down maybe add a bit of strength (saw an awesome thing on gearz where he added a bunch of stuff to a project called sgt rock if anyone has seen it might do something like that) at the very least grind/sand and coat in por15 if it all turns out to be surface rust as it appears to be.

I now have spark and pulses at the injectors. Still wont start the suspect is fuel pressure now. I am thinking possibly a clogged fuel line/bad fuel (the tank was full when i bought the truck no idea how old it is might just mount a fuel cell in the bed we will see). Would really stale gas cause the engine not to start? worried it may have clogged injectors and such I'll test the fuel pressure tomorrow ran out of daylight