DADZSUN

Maybe we can caravan. I'll be making the trek from Ottawa. Love your build, keep at it! My 280z had very similar rust, both floors, entire engine rails, both rear arches/drops/valence. Here's my build thread in case you want to see how I approached my challenges. As FYI, Metal Supermarket has good prices for 18ga metal.

Jumping in a little sooner than hoped but I'm planning to develop a complete bolt-in kit for the 620... Along the lines of Charlie's suggestion above. I'm testing a 510 kit now (S30 also planned) and am hoping to leverage much of this setup into a 620 by the fall. I started a small Datsun parts business this year (www.datsunrestomods.com) and it's been more successful than planned so additional products are coming to market - CV axles was the first offering. Next is electric power steering, currently in R&D. I should have more info later in August.

I'm not worried about the fuel within the line freezing. It's when cold (< 0C) and damp air is exposed to the carb that the intake air itself crystalizes and temporarily locks up the carb's mechanical bits from functioning normally. I'm assuming this additive helps prevent the intake charge and/or the mechanical bits (slider/needles) from freezing. A quick Google explains it as this: " Carburetor icing occurs when there is humid air, and the temperature drop in the venturi causes the water vapor to freeze. ... Icing may also cause jamming of the mechanical parts of thecarburetor, such as the throttle, typically a butterfly valve." I don't drive my 510 when the road salt comes out so I've only experienced it once, and it was about -3C and the weather was almost foggy despite being below 0. The car had a noticeable, random (ie: 2-3 times/min), and fairly strong stumble that I've only experienced that one time. It was strong enough that I was discouraged from driving it any more until I figured out the cause. A couple of days later with ~ +8C she ran perfectly fine.

I plan to match the intake to the head this winter. W/R to the gas, I actually try to run non-ethanol to better maintain the carb's rubber seals. Silkolene Pro FST is marketed as a remededy for carb icing and the reviews online are quite favorable. It certaintly doesn't hurt to try. There is another solution albeit it takes a little longer to take effect. The R1 does have a provision to run engine coolant through the body. I'm thinking of using a couple of 'T' junctions and plumbing it into the cabin return line (so the coolant is only 'heating' the carb when it's cold enough to activate the cabin heater). Coolant In Coolant Out

Wow, good to see this thread is still alive. It's been a whole year since I've last been here. That's some great info, I'm going to try those plugs because my Innovate A/F just starts to creep to 14+ if I wind out a large gear and higher RPM. Any WOT from mid-gear shows a nice ~13'ish A/F. Typical driving is around or just below 14 but can be 14-15 while at steady-state depending what circuit I'm on and throttle applied. Here's a few other issues which really haven't held me back but do prevent this setup from being an EFI-clone: - A consistent miss on idle which is about 14 but climbs to 16-17 when hot (a pilot might be clogged). I also noticed that the manifold doesn't sit flush with the head so a puddle builds during idle and could also be a source. - About 25% of the time hot starts need a couple of throttle blips immediately after fire-up or else it sputters out after a second or two. I get maybe one more attempt to start, then she's a bit of a bitach w/o getting a backfire, which did happen last year... - When driving around in freezing temps and conditions are damp, the engine can miss under load and lean spikes. I suspect freezing is temporarily blocking the main jet. Apparently Silkolene ProFST is a good fuel antifreeze which I might try. I might also tap into the cabin heater's coolant line and run it through the carb. I'm getting about 24MPG when I behave and no bike, and 20MPG (US) on average when I run the KA a bit and drag my MTB around (essentially a big sail). Besides that the only other change is to swap out to Bills B Racing filters. No difference in performance from the Pipercross setup I have now sitting on the shelf, but it does add a bit of nostalgia. Next up is a Facet fuel pump installation (#40105 2.5-3.5psi) recommended by Bogg. My stock R1 pump is going strong but apparently some are starting to show their age & crapping out. This install is purely for reliability.

So 195/50 fit after an Eastwood pull, will the 225/45s you mentioned earlier fit as well? Just to confirm, that's a 15x8 rim eh? What's the offset and how does the front look with the same size? Great thread, I'll admit it... I giggled. Any plans for the bumpers?

Bringing this thread back from the dead - I'm almost complete a MegaJolt ignition swap on my KA24e/R1 setup. I'd provide links to the YouTube clip and my build thread but this site seems to freeze when I hit the 'Link' icon. :confused: What a PITA... As expected, the stronger spark appears to be leaning out the A/F so I'll have to consider playing with the jets once complete.

Love to see a pic of the 1200 outside with that spoiler mounted. You may be on wheelset #5 but it's the best choice yet IMO. Great thread!

Have you tried a D21 oil pan? I'm running a modified rear sump D21 pan on my 510/KA24e. The only potential difference from your setup is that my block is from a D21 as well.

StupidFast, do you have a source for a decent vacuum block? I was looking for one on a MegaJolt setup (either MAP, or just use the R1's TPS).

I still have it. It's for a KA24e (SOHC), not KA24de. $225 shipped. Contact me if interested: fmckellar at Hotmail dot com.

Quick update with my setup. About a month ago I played with the R1 needles to drop/lean out the cruising A/F and somehow managed to bust a couple of the plastic clips on #3 slider which holds the plug/spring/needle in place. The car idled fine but when I applied any load I could tell the car was missing a cylinder. I've managed to source replacement sliders and the car is running well once again. I'm still 12.6 on the wide band during cruising with a little less spacers (only one clip on my needles so I have to play with the spacers), I'll wait until fall to see if the cooler air will lean her out. Otherwise, I'll try a smaller main jet for next year (24->22 I believe) because WOT initially sends the A/F to the 11 range until it pulls back to 12s. I think there's still some potential to squeeze out of the KA24e. The idle is good (L series blue top electronic dizzy currently) but there's still a little miss - Megajolt is in the plans using the R1 TPS and running a custom ASP crank pulley with a provision for EDIS trigger wheel (how I'll fasten a steel ring to an aluminum pulley has yet to be determined). Best 0-60 time I've pulled is 7.2 seconds according to my Speedhut speedo GPS. I'm confident high 6's are possible but the upshift to 3rd is what's killing the 0-60 number. Otherwise, this car runs like a 0-60 mid 6 second machine. She pulls pretty hard from 3-5K but definitely runs out of breath approaching the 6K which is a little surprising considering the JWT cam and short R1 manifold runners and lack of cat. Oil pressure has been high with my KA. I switch from 10w-30 dino to 5w-30 Mobile 1 synthetic and it's been better (80-85 psi at 3K when hot). 10w have a hard time getting under 90 unless I was idling. With synthetic my idle is just under 20psi. Mileage wise, the car is certainly more thirsty than the original L16 which was shocking good. I haven't done official numbers yet (approx mid 20MPG) as the engine is barely at 1000km and I'm still honking on the throttle plenty. The Megajolt will be my last substantial investment for the foreseeable future as I've recently purchased a new companion for my 510, a '73 Celica. Plans are to make it the mellower cruiser with a 2/3RZ EFI swap, rack & pinion, power brakes, stereo etc... Basically it will be the anti-510.

I do still have the KA24e Bogg manifold for sale. I'm kind surprised no one has snagged it yet, I would have killed for one 18 months ago.

Your car sounds good Vintage - actually it sounds a lot like mine. You were pulling hard on that Civic in that one short clip.

Does anyone have any spare carb parts? I was playing with needle adjustment when two of the slider's clips which hold needle's spring-loaded 'hat' broke. I need a new complete slider assembly. Also, any suggestions where to get the adjustable needles? I've got only 1 circlip location on my needle so I can only adjust via spacers.