drowning in broken cars

Intake manifold welded up, installed, started welding up n/a downpipe. ​ Wiring harness run, fuel rail installed, ​ mounted up ignitor, injector resistor, diagnostic port ​ ​

Hey guys, have been working on the car but havent had time to make an update until now. first off, clutch is in, bled, good to go. ​ Threw some hood pins on as I kinda had to because the latch part of the hood had to be cut out for the radiator ​

Havent forgotten about the project, took a couple weeks off and took a long awaited trip to scotland, which was amazing. Will post up some sweet build pics soon, welded up my intake manifold, assembled my front suspension, yada yada. New short term plan is to get the 2j running n/a mostly so i can rip it up and down the road and make sure it stops, turns, idles, starts, charges, cruises etc. And of course make a lil video.

Thanks guys appreciate the encouragement for sure. Still tons to do. Yea I heard that in the volvo world these diffs arent bulletproof and break with abuse/drag racing as well as axles. Im hoping that with considerably less weight and maybe a little finesse haha, it will last. Who knows.. i guess time will tell.

Well the rears are small 2 piston brakes, small pad rotor etc, fronts are decently large single pistons, pads rotors. It should stop pretty well with these they braked my 3000lb celica supra very adequately.

I not really sure how to answer that haha...

Made some more progress with the car, finished up my trans mounting points and welded em to the car. ​ ​ that was the last thing I needed the engine/trans in place for so then I pulled it out, got the bay all painted up, and did a bunch of painting/rustproofing underneath while trans was out of way. ]​ then, chucked it all back in ( not for the last time, still have to pull it out one more time for clutch) but not before pulling down subframe and painting that. ​ mocked up some intrcooler stuff and ran a little body wiring. that's all for now folks!

To chime in, when looking at a dyno graph torque and hp dont always cross at 5252. They are always the same inherently at 5252. Where they cross depends on graph scaling.

update, got some parts in the mail finally, and scored a sweet eaton g80 locker from a volvo 940 the other day. tore the diff down to mod it a bit: ​ ​ ​ ​ this is the governor pawl that lets the diff lock. the counterweight on it disengages at around 25 so that the diff cant lock above that speed. ​ counterweight cut off, now diff can lock under wheelspin at any speed. ​ back together, checked for locking, good to go! ​ got some new steering and suspension components, gonna paint them up before they rust all up ​ finally, heres the brake setup I'm running in the front, cant put on car though til I get strut inserts/build coilovers.... ​ that's all for now but will be throwing the diff in soon, buttoning up front end, steering, brakes, brakelines yada yada

​ Once again, not very exciting but today I pulled the control arms off and burnt the bushings out, pressed new ones in, ground em down and painted them. ordered center link,,idler arm, ball joint, tie rod ends, and front pads and slotted rotors for the celica supra brakes Il be running. Side note I don't have a press so I got crafty with a bottle jack and the under side of a truck frame and pressed them in like a boss. ​ Little shot of some intercooler piping mocking up

did a bit more on the car, nothing too exciting just soundproofing the firewall, patching the pass side floor ​ yea shes got some cancer in spots ​ patched up minus one spot that I still need to get ​ drivers floor I patched a few years ago

awesome im definitely interested

sc300 w58

so the stage 4 is rated at 250% increase, 350 wtq stage 2 is rated for 80% increase, no torque numbers given that i could find.( edit: just found the rating of 250wtq) you may be right about the marketing and ass covering hogwash. i wish they made something in between... a stage 3 maybe ? lol. i do know that i will be launching this car hard and beating on it when i drive it so im leaning towards a 6 puck disc for longevity

im just wondering about holding power. the stg 4 is rated for 380-390tq which is a little more than i want but the stg 2 ones if i remember right "arent reccommended for forced induction" and were rated for about 250tq... id rather overbuild than underbuild as the price isnt much different. the last clutch i had in the car was a spec stg 3 rated for about the same, 380~ tq and an 11 lb flywheel and it drove like a dream