Yes the objective was to really make one of these. I have figured out a few things but I've been too busy to finish it. I started a bussiness and it's has takin priority. Guides are 3d printed and test fit. Cam timing is on point with stock cams and the upper timing chain cover is printed with just the mating surfaces. So basically finish the timing chain cover model and machine a billet one. Bore the block and assemble. This is all for fun to me. I don't even have a car to put it in right now.
I already tested the egr and the diaphragm was bad. I bought a replacement but the replacement used different sized orifices. You are suppost to installed the correct orifice based on the original part number. I was able to call Nissan and they looked it up.
Part number #14710-H7760
1979 Datsun 620 manual trans, California emissions.
I'm trying to get my 1979 620 kc smogged and the egr was bad. It doesn't have a readable number on it and I need the factory part number to install the correct origice. The number I think would be stamped in the top of the egr valve or written on the top of a aftermarket valve.
My printer is small 8 x 9 x 10".
Pla is extruded at 410 degrees F
Abs is extruded at 482 degrees F
I drew it in rhino 3d. I thought about leaving plastic but the print is actually mesh inside not solid. I sure I could change a setting but I know alinum will work
Nope 3d printer. It's my birthday/Christmas present. It takes along time 8 hrs each side. but it's amazing for prototyping. And it would have been very difficult to try and make a mold to cast any other way.
I printed these intakes over the weekend. I'm gonna try a cast them and if that goes well then I'll make a air cleaner assy. What do you guy think? Too tall? Trying to keep the float bowls level even tho I've read it doesn't matter
surprisingly that's a ka cxracing radiator and its been cooling it. i dont think it will be able to when it get to 100 degrees. it is definitely way more fun to drive with suspension and a diff you don't have to worry about braking. i think he will have to get another radiator because he wants to run a/c for the summer. but when the time comes i will make a aluminum belly pan.
I think this is right.
L16, l18 - 55mm main journals
L20b - 60mm main journals
So as far as I know you couldn't put a l20b, z20, z22, z24, in a L16 or L18.
Unless there is enough material to grind the crank or align bore the mains.
I could be wrong but I think the main bearing sizes were different. L16 and l18 are one size and l20 is a different size. Also I know there is something wrong in the chiltons and Haynes manuals about l20b main bearing sizes.