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5NDIME

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  • Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
  • Cars
    71 510 / 97 M3 Sedan / 06 Xterra
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    Cars

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  1. Well I already have an Isky comp with 530 lift; it was in the head when I got it with all the other stuff. Just wondering if what was assembled was a dream the PO had or maybe actually ran. I got the engine in pieces, but it looks like it may have been run lightly at some point.
  2. So if installed height is 1.72" and bind is at 0.963" in the top end, we have a delta of 0.757". So if this is max spring travel and a rough tollerance of around 0.07" difference between travel and lift, theoretically a cam with lift of up to 0.687" should be possible without danger of spring bind. My math right on this? Which I would guess is why the Z-196 cam was selected with a lift of 530 given the other components. It should all be able to run with this cam. Or am I missing something? Then again it is all theoretical until metal slams into metal and you figure out this doesn't work I guess.
  3. So I posted this over on that other forum and haven't received any replies...figure I'd try it here: Okay, so I bought an L20B with a W53 closed chamber head on it. I have been able to verify that the cam is an Isky comp cam of the Z-196 grind variety. I also was easily able to tell that the retainers are the NISMO aluminum because of the color (duh, too easy). The guy I got it from had dreams of building something, but he bought the head like it sat; so he had no specs he could remember from the guy he bought it from. I'm just trying to sort it out. Now for the springs, I took them in the machine shop I use and had them do a quick check on them. The stats they came up with @ 1.84" were all right around 80# and @ 1.36" all about 210. Bind averages about 0.96"-ish. So what I am curious about is if anyone can tell from these stats if these are Isky, NISMO, or someone else's. Just would like to have an idea. For the static specs, the height sits at 2.25" on the bench for the outside spring. OD is ~1.34" / ID is ~1". On the inners, they are 1.925" tall on the bench, with OD @ ~1" / ID is ~0.755". I know OE inners are often used with Isky or the like as the outsides. Any indication if this is a full set of one brand or a mix and match? Thanks in advance for any info!
  4. How much for the L20B? What head is on it. I'm in north Texas and can pick up.
  5. I think I see what you're saying. The ball joint at the front chassis pick up point is allowed to be dead center perpendicular on all planes from the fixed chassis point allowing complete articulation of the ball joint even if caster is adjusted because of the ability to pivot and set the angle of the pick up at the LCA? Making more sense now. So by adjsting the angle at the clevis when static ride height is adjusted/set, the front ball joint can be shifted around to be (what I would call) centered in the ball. Whereas with the T3 arm, that front point is what is and has less of a radius because it's not a ball joint, but just a rod end with limited rotation anyway. When you pull the lack of adjustability option at the LCA, it's limiting manipulation of the arm even more. I can see how the T3 might be stronger for rally or some very hard drifting and how yours is plenty sufficient for street/auto-x/track use. Now I know which way to go. Thanks Dave. As we say in North Mexico, your product es mucho bueno.
  6. I am at the point where I'm about to order a set of tension rods. I have seen the previous discussion of these from a couple years ago, but am wondering what people think having used these the past couple years. I have T3 camber plates and 280ZX coilovers, but I will say Dave's stuff all looks solid too. Anyone have some good input after using either of these tension rods over the past couple years? Anyone really having bumpsteer issues with the T3 due to the shorter length of the rod from pivot point to the LCA? I'm going to be using them on a street car with light track use now, but would like to use them when I do get to the point of stripping the car down to track it.
  7. Looking for a good pair of 280ZX hubs. Don't need the tubes or rotors. Just the hubs. If you have a pair, I have money. Let me know how much you want. Shipping will be to 76111. These need to be the usual ZX hubs. You can e-mail me at info@grahambrizendine.com to let me know you have a pair you want to sell. I'm not on here all the time, so email is quicker. Thanks.
  8. 5NDIME

    STANCE

    That's what I was thinking. I'm seeing my 280ZX as already about 2" lower just in static tube height, then with the coilovers I was wondering how damn low are people trying to get. I want streetable low, but not road turtle low. Thanks for clearing that up since my 280ZX are not quite on the car yet.
  9. 5NDIME

    STANCE

    Just out of pure lack of knowledge, when you say 'low' how low do you mean when measuring from the bottom of the front subframe? I have 280ZX coilover set up and would think it is 'low' based on the straight different when looking at that compared to the stock 510 stuff.
  10. If they are the T3, they should be 7"....that is also what she said.
  11. Got it. Flapper disks are nice. I'm retarded for not using those earlier.
  12. I will grab a flap disk. My grinding has been limited to rough jobs where the desire for precision didn't exist. I don't want this to come out like fence tubing I have put together. I am not shortening these, so yeah I will need to get these down smooth. I have a medium size Bosch angle grinder. It's got power, but the DeWalt metal grinding disk appears to be good at just getting things smooth and not good at yanking lots of metal off. Thanks.
  13. Okay, so I sliced the spring perches off the 280ZX struts I had and have been at it with my 4" Bosch angle grinder to get the welds gone. So far I have made it to here (picture below). I assume to slide the GC coilover perch ring this weld needs to be down to the main tube diameter right? If I am right about this, anyone have a faster way to grind these welds down? Should I just lean into it a little more? Seeing sparks for 20 minutes is getting boring. (It is shiny because I sprayed a little WD40 on it for the night to keep the nasty rust away.)
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