poor-mans-720

82 720 KC build thread http://community.ratsun.net/topic/37709-82-720-kc-build-thread/ Started by poor-mans-720, Nov 22 2011 01:15 AM check this thread out... I SAS with both a D44 and Toyota still running the toy axle after 3 years. might go to tons some day

well back from yet another long span... I am down in Houston, Tx now. Got settled in and getting back to work on the Datsun... I am in the market for yet, another motor swap. I am going to try and go some thing much newer this time. Like a KA or a VG 30/33... something Nissan. The 22R i had did amazing in there. Really did. I beat the shit out of that thing, and 37's with stock 4.10s I asked alot from that motor and it did pretty good... Well if anyone down here in Texas has Datsun parts or meets for that matter. Please let me know... trying to learn a new crowd. I will post some more photos of how it sits now...

Sheshhh that is a good looking collection of Datsuns. Love the SAS'ed 620... and that it is taller then the 720 :) I didnt see any pictures with the bed bobbed. I was looking forward to that. I took 14" out of my 82. It looks way better. Where at in Texas are you? Im north of houston now.

When mine broke i was driving down Pac AVE and it would squell SUPER loud... like a wheel bearing. I ended up just pulling the CV out in my parking lot, and drove with out the CV till i got it fixed

I had this same problem happen with me. I had a machine shop drill a tiny hole at the end, and I just slipped a cotter pin in it. Its in my thread, showing how it was done. and it only cost me a pack a cigarettes. guy was super cool about it. So, upon further inspection, it appears that underneath the grease there was no snap ring... So I'm considering taking the axle to a machine shop to get a channel cut into it so I can get a snap ring in place. Anyone have any similar experience or pointers they'd like to share?

electric fence wire 6" off the ground, just run laps of that all around...

has to be a vacuum leak. take off the brake booster vacuum line and plug it. See if the problem still persist. If so, your brake booster leaks. my money is on vacuum leak around base of carb. Grab a can of starting fluid and start checking... Intake manifold, vacuum lines, base of carb, brake booster... give it a little spray on the gasket or base, and if it revs up, vacuum leak. It runs good cold, cause the vacuum plates are closed. And it can maintain vacuum.

Man that carb looks CLEAN!!!!

@2DeYe you know that your front shackles are opposite? BTW a sick!!! 620....

Did you get the front shackles braced up? I can only imagine with them in the front, and not being braced that it could cause some play too. IF you are going all out and doing caster angles. Might take the extra time and do a shackle reversal. Put them in the rear. It makes the ride alot smoother on, and off the trail. And +1 that drag link looks sketch. But check out huge mud trucks. They run insanely massive Z bars and do fine. You should be able to check the caster angle on the rig. and either use shims or shackle length to tweek it a little. mine is -5 degrees on the dot. The only reason I had death wobble was, a sloopy heim joint on the drag link to my steering arm. I put on legit toyota high steer and a good tie rod and drag link. I believe i could take my steering stabilizer off and not have any issue. But I like how it softens any super harsh feed back while turning. You might try just bending your draglink to parallel first. You said you like cheapest option first lol... Kinda looks like it is binding on the steering arm too. might need a spacer in there.

yea, I would weld up them shackles. First thing. I bet, with them being shackled in the front like that, that it is a big problem I have never seen shackles like that, for the front. seems like there would just be a lot of play for them. mhmmm... Did this with IFS too?? that means, pre-existing issue. maybe the steering box, shaft? and it is a manual box? are all your steering bars lined up correctly, drag link not crossing over your tie rod? Id just focus on the Heims, making sure there is no play in any of them. That is what caused my death wobble.

check them front shackles too... looks like there is no brace between the two strips... got better pics of the steering components?

Thats insane. My truck drives so smooth, I mean, it drives better the the stock IFS ever did. no tracking, no bumpsteer, no feedback, nothing but normal. I know what you mean about white knuckle. before my steering stabilizer, I had death wobble.... Maybe that is an understatement. I had, truck shook so violently, you shit your pants uncontrollably. And that was in 1st gear, at less then 10mph.... I took a tape measure to it. Measured the front of the tires, and the back of the tires. 1/8-1/4" in on the front. It sounds like you have play, somewhere in your steering system. Have some on rock your steering wheel back and forth, very slightly, and look at each joint to see if there is ANY play. heim joints are notorious for this... bolt too small, bottom of the collar not sitting flat, bolt moving around in steering arm... Check every nut and bolt, and make sure everything is tight. nope, no drop pitman. That is a normal one. yea, people always say that. But i have built at least 10 different rigs, and every single one of them would do freeway speeds without an issue.

VK 56??? yea... nothing but win!!! but really, a VK30 would be simple, supercharged VK33?? sick...

hopefully this fixes it. youd be surprised what a rebuilt carb can do for a truck. Sounds almost like you had a leaking base gasket, my truck had the same symptoms. I am running a Weber 32/36 and it was just leaking around the base gasket. Sealed it, and night and day difference. Sounds like maybe that is why he had the idle turned up.