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poopypants720

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About poopypants720

  • Birthday 01/22/1984

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Antelope Valley, Ca
  • Cars
    '81 Datsun 720 KC 4x4
  • Interests
    Duuuuh, 720 Trucks.

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  1. I only ran the ground based relay circuit cause of the way the Volvo relay controller works. If I was wiring with standard Bosch relays, I would have run off switched power, not switched ground... I was against Facebook for a good while compared to the rest of my fam, but finally joined up... Didn't start using it a ton though until they introduced Facebook groups where you can make groups of like minded individuals (hopefully) and then it's quite a bit more like a topic based forum.... But it's lacking a ton of features, searchability, and still gets plenty of retards...
  2. Because it is a ground switched system, they are tied to power, then tapped into the temp switch lines I think.... Pretty sure that's how I did it... Ran power from our ignition switch so if have indicators of the fans were left on when I park. Was really just checking the thread cause of this photobucket mess.... They are REALLY gonna kill forums with this and push everyone to social media to share info...
  3. yeah,these are just some extra cheapo leds from Amazon and have in line resistors...
  4. Here's the LEDs installed and their function... No lights, fans off Blue light, low fan speed Blue and red, high fan speed engaged(notice fan switches are both up to as I typically have to override to even get the high fan speed to kick on, the low fan speed is already very efficient.)
  5. The fans have different blade count and angle to help with circulation, but yes, they both run simultaneously and low and high fan speed using an integrated resistors harness... The food contour fan is similar, but to big for our little radiator.
  6. Thought I'd update with a diagram of how final wiring was laid out. I will take a picture of the led indicators tomorrow when it's light and add it too.
  7. Finally got the pictures taken of the completed install(weber 38 on too)... Here is the circuit breaker mounted on the wall... Cut the cap off the inline fuse folder to cover the terminals... The whole engine bat as it stands(need an extended breather tube to connect to the new air cleaner... In dash switch placement... Gonna have the new leds posted to the outside of each switch when they come in(need em too, cause I can't even hear the low fan running over my engine)!
  8. Oh, also bumped the system from an inline 30amp fuse to a 40amp auto resetting circuit breaker... Kept blowing fuses and figured it might be the case when I first put it in, cause on initial startup those fans draw a lot more amperage... This should be better suited and if it does trip the breaker, at least I'm not going to have to replace it every time.
  9. Finished the wiring and all is running great! Got the new Weber on and went for a drive, kicks on perfectly! Only thing that didn't happen was the internal led status lights. The solder couldn't hold up to the movement of the switch and kept breaking. So the wiring is already ran, just gotta get some separate led lights to mount next to the switches. I'll snap some shots of the temp sensor/T placement and in dash switches later today.
  10. doesn't sound like WOT bog, sounds like your starving for fuel under a load. Check the float, maybe your needle valve needs to be smaller, maybe you had crud in the bowl from the factory and didn't know it n sucked it into the jets(considering you have new filters)... I'd tear it down, check jets, emulsion tubes and blow out passageways, put it back together, tune it for best lean idle(instruction came with the weber on how to do it), and you should be good to go. As for the timing. Sounds like your ONE tooth off. Not even a couple teeth. And getting that fixed should help since most webers like more advance. I run mine@ 10-15° btdc tuning to sound... It makes a huge difference through all the gears and once mechanical/vacuum advance takes over. Just the same... After all this, if it's not tuned just right, you still might get a hesitation/bog with the 38 and that usually requires then playing with air correction jets and emulsion tubes and CAN be overcome... But otherwise will take learned throttle control and might be better off with the 32/36 for your daughter. This guy has some good tuning videos and their website and racetep.com both have great into on Weber tuning https://youtu.be/A44-xG3pKlY https://youtu.be/fhYSo6u-Jm0 https://youtu.be/BfIH26O2Ijg
  11. Hah! It works, why not? Thanks for helping me out with a starting point!
  12. Hmmm... Well... I should have REALLY forgotten about that wiring diagram on the back of those switches, not just their labeled inputs... Wasn't working the way they "should" so I popped one open... Not only is there two real switches inside (pretty much flips on the ground AND power source at the same time and connects them both to the load/powered item) but the led had a one way resistor that wasn't going to allow me to swap intend posts for ground and power(not that it matters now anyways considering it's not even a complete circuit at all times as indicated)...So I just customized the switch myself. Now the lower two posts can serve as my intended override/kill switches and the wires are obviously for the led... Maintained the one way resistor jic this also restricted power for the led(don't want to burn it out) so it does have a specified +/- but I've yet to tie them in to test, although I'm sure they will work fine... Also... Already got in my custom T... Looks way high quality. Like it was cnc'ed from a straight block of billet aluminum! I also like the fact that the threads are right into the main pipe and not a real "T" at all where water would have to flow into, but rather it will stick right into the path of the water.
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