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Posts
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Gender
Male
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Location
Washington
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Cars
1981 b310, 1971 240z
PinoyDat210's Achievements
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Hahaha due to my inexperience the slave rod wasn't adjusted far enough back so I wasn't putting any pressure on the clutch that's why the pedal felt a little soft. I adjusted it and took it for a drive, needs a little tuning but I'm on the road! Happy to be back in my dat to again. Thank you to everyone for their input!
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Well here some added info I deleted the hardlinE and rubber completely would that affect pressure?? IMO once the air was purge pressure would be restored and functioning extremely well.
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So I bled the system a few more, pumped it like a crazy person, starting to feel some more pressure,adjusted the slave rod(im not sure the proper procedure how to measure, can someone fill me in) datsun 1200.com and Haynes is too vague to educate my inexperience) to no avail. Still will not disengage clutch in any gear it starts to go into reverse but it grinds so I backed out. I will get a flash light up into the bish later, when my son gives me some time.how much pressure should a normal pedal feel like? Still really confused, hopefully I won't have to drop the tranny.. double thanks soon far fellow ratsuners!
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I've bled it so many times I'll keep trying. Literally a solid stream is being pushed out. Yeah sorry disengage to get into gear is what I had meant. The collar was the same one taken out from the tranny
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First off thanks for the input! The clutch would only sit and fit one way when installed at least so I thought, I matched it the same way I removed, bearing I am almost 99% sure it was correctly installed and correct product came in clutch kit, only one fits all a-series transmission. When I depress the pedal to the floor while car running it won't let me go into gear it's hard catches. I could throw it in but don't want to brake it obviously haha. I also matched the bearing to old removed one. Pressure plate if anything would be upside down or something I would think. Literally everything only seemed to fit one way. I am just really confused.
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I finally have my 210 running and healthy after the rebuild, but I can't seem to engage the clutch while engine running, does anyone know why?? Let me give you some more info, New clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing I did it my self followed the book and took it apart and back together the same way(clutch and plate only go on 1 way. New braided clutch line as well. At first I didn't have much pedal pressure but it returned so I bled the system a little bit, it was a little bit better, bled it a few more not much luck adjusted the slave cylinder(which I can see it engaging the fork when the pedal is depressed) can someone give me a rundown on the procedure and details? so I can make sure what I did was correct as well. I have a little play, I can see the fork and pedal actuating together, their is pressure and return. Shifts fine into gear while engine off, but seems like clutch isn't grabbing feeling idk exactly. It has been bled like a mofo no air, no leaks. Any ideas fellows??? Thanks
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Very interesting how this topic turned out hehe. Well msd tech support helped me out got it figured thanks for the input good and bad. Well see how it runs
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how do you mean jumper splice?. What I was thinking was their is two wires that plug into the black two pin connector that connectt to the black matchbox, Which is then connected to the red and green internal igniter wires, so can't I just add the two msd wires into the place of the the two original wires that connect the black plug? So in turn I'm wiring it direct in place of the stock design? Does that make sense?
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Well the thing is I have it why not use it, I will be getting zx struts and brake swap and rims, but I have this might as well use it.. the rev limiter is necessary though and I've always wanted to run this msd setup, plus it will make sense when the build comes full circle just baby steps for now. so the red and green wires which color wire is the main igniter line? Could I just splice into the original twin wire connector plug that plugs into the matchbox or will I have to bypass and splice directly into the red n green wires on the inside?
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Well I already have it plus it already has a rev limiter built in, earlier more consistent and reliable spark why not? Regardless I have it it's half way wired up, and would appreciate some input. What do you mean bypass the igniter box? Do I need to remove it?
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Does anybody know how to connect the magnetic pickup to a datsun a14 with an hitachi d4k distributor? Do I use it at all? Theirs a white wire for points type distributor but isn't the matchbox a magnetic pickup? Is it possibly to splice the black box two pin connector into the msd magnetic pickup connector?
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I need to remove and replace my timing cover and in order to do that I need to remove my pulley off of my a14. How do I remove and install without disturbing the engine?? Thanks
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Well I rechecked the pump and I can't find anything wrong with it, it seemed to pump fine and I know it's installed correctly. Still no fuel to the carb. When I step on the pedal or pull the throttle cable I should see fuel in carb but none. None in float bone dry. I'm beginning to suspect the carb but idk. It's a fairly new rebuilt hitachi and was previously operating fine I drove it. Any ideas?
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Yea well before I had the cam reground I noticed a little uneven wear on the lobe, but thought it would be okay for now. It worked in a previous application. I've read around about the arm resting flat out so it's not riding the probe any longer, I've got new hoses and theirs no blockage because I can get fuel by hand pumping without resistance. So conclusion do I buy a new one, or is it refundable or is it the most feasible just to go the electric route? And the decision being based on the least expensive but the most reliable solution.
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Okay I have the spacer, cams torqued. Did valve lash, the only thing I can guess is that the arm isn't riding the lobe properly or the pumps not actuating right. I disconnected the pump and fuel to carb line and hand pump to watch it and fuel was present but when reassembled nothing..