Somewhat Serious Street Build

[drummingpariah]

I haven't decided if I like hybridz or ratsun more yet, I'm in that lovely phase where you're just dating both and genuinely enjoy both of them.

 

Let me start by catching you up on the events which have transpired thus far:

 

Last week, I drove to Boulder Creek to check out a Z I had seen on craigslist (no pictures) posted for $500. Non-runner, decent shell, no title, but no history at the DMV. It was in pretty rough shape, but the frame rails were solid, the fenders had no rust, and the engine seemed ok (spun freely) but had a bad starter motor. I decided I'd take it because it was so cheap, and we worked out the details of delivery.

 

The details involved the previous owner taking his big badass Cumins-powered truck and towing the Z up to me on that. Unfortunately, the truck's tie rods got into a bad argument and said some things they didn't really mean and parted ways. This wasn't good for the truck, and it more or less collapsed upon itself. He signed up for AAA plus and hauled it up to me last night, in the pouring rain. We took it off the flatbed, and I got a bill of sale.

 

It had two flat tires and a locked rear brake, and my garage is uphill from my driveway so the chances of just pushing it in were slim. I spent four hours swapping starter motors to try to find a good one (I had a few spares for some reason) but as it turns out, they were all toast. Somewhat disheartened, I called it a night and went inside. I changed to dry clothes, tossed my soggy ones in the washer (they were pretty grungy after all that playtime in the mud) and tried to warm myself up (it was effing COLD out).

 

This morning, I woke up early to the sound of more gushing rain. Here's what I walked out to:

Eager to get back into it, I headed back outside and threw another set of shoes on the Z and brought it into the garage. New shoes, before letting it settle (that's why it looks so obscenely tall):

Once that was done, I realized there wasn't a whole lot I could do without a running motor, so I called Carquest down the street from me to source out a new starter. They said they'd order one and have it there the next day, at only $40 (plus a $1.35 core charge... I guess they don't really want those cores). I was a little over-excited by the fact that I had solved a problem for the day as best I could, and started a careful inspection for rust. I found some.

(yep, that's the ground through there)

 

I got some other stuff done in the moments of not-rain throughout the day, like taking off the very broken front end:

Overall, the rust isn't that bad except for three spots: passenger's floor (nonstructural), hatch latch area (nonstructural), and the passenger's dogleg (semi-structural). I'll be taking care of them after I have it on the road. I tore out the sound proofing using a hammer and flat-head screwdriver. It took awhile.

 

Now I think I'm going to sit around, enjoy a Guinness, and call it a day. Tomorrow, I try to get the l24 running and prepare for the l28et swap (I'll be picking up the motor in this Z). Any comments are really appreciated, I've missed working on Z's since I sold my v8 240z. This one looks like it'll be a keeper.

 

Coming soon:

seats, harnesses, roll cage, headlights, fresh hood pins, fresh tires (the tires that are on there are so-so condition), tach, steering wheel, and a BRE front air dam if I can find one at a decent price (I like the no-vents look).

[Edz280zx]

Looks like a project for sure...keep us updated!!! Welcome to Ratsun btw.

[hang_510]

I'm in that lovely phase where you're just dating both and genuinely enjoy both of them.

 

(yep, that's the ground through there)

 

welcome fred (flinstone :lol: )

 

we dont mind if you enjoy both, just share (pictures!)

 

 

there is a video of a swedish guy doing a full restore on a Z, very inspirational work on a project, that was bought 'rust free' :lol:

[drummingpariah]

welcome fred (flinstone :lol: )

 

we dont mind if you enjoy both, just share (pictures!)

 

 

there is a video of a swedish guy doing a full restore on a Z, very inspirational work on a project, that was bought 'rust free' :lol:

 

Yep, Mull. He's much more serious than I am. I want to have mine driveable on its own power (not flinstones power) by the end of the weekend. That doesn't necessarily mean it'll be 'right' but it'll be daily driveable, assuming I can get it legal by then.

 

Thanks for the warm welcomes, guys! I'll get video tonight, so if I get it started you'll be able to see me dancing around and being gleeful in general.

 

... then wondering why it dies right afterward.

[Gollum]

<-- Another hybridz member here, and also a friend of drummingpariah via HBZ.

 

I think you need to leave the passanger floor like it is for a while. Wait until you have a bad experience with a rock shooting up at you while driving, then you'll appreciate those floor boards more. :-D

[drummingpariah]

<-- Another hybridz member here, and also a friend of drummingpariah via HBZ.

 

I think you need to leave the passanger floor like it is for a while. Wait until you have a bad experience with a rock shooting up at you while driving, then you'll appreciate those floor boards more. :-D

 

I have some cardboard boxes from the parts I ordered, and some duct tape. She'll hold.

[Gollum]

Amen brudda. :thumbup:

[hang_510]

I have some cardboard boxes from the parts I ordered, and some duct tape. She'll hold.

 

steet signs > cardboard :fu: free too ;)

 

NO L (or R) turn, fit nicely :lol:

[LAYEDOUTB2K]

steet signs > cardboard :fu: free too ;)

 

NO L (or R) turn, fit nicely :lol:

 

 

20MPH zone signs work well too. :D

 

 

anyways, welcome to ratsun

[drummingpariah]

I like you guys already.

 

Here's the situation:

• Brake pedal travels with no resistance, no fluid: probably a broken line
  
• Clutch pedal will not move, pedal itself appears to be stuck
  
• Throttle pedal moves and returns now that I cleaned the linkage, woot!
  
• Carb slides move freely now. strange fluid came out of them...
  
• Fuel is not being delivered to the engine from the tank. Is there a pump other than the mechanical one on the engine?
  
• Battery is shot, picking up a new one tonight
  
• All 3 starters turn when hooked up to a good battery; returning new unit in favor of two old ones which still function
  
• So far, rust has been cosmetic, not structural. I like the road sign idea, but they're thick and heavy. Anything lighter available?
  
• Spark is untested, on the agenda for tonight. Is there a kill switch somewhere that checks the clutch pedal position or transmission position or any gotcha's I should be on the lookout for?
  
• Several fuses are blown. My solution is to get a modern, blade-style fuse box to replace the glass fuses. May happen tonight, does not seem crucial
  
• Air pump will disappear. It's disconnected right now, and I'm not extremely concerned about the weight, but I'd like the extra space in the engine bay
  

 

carbs rebuilt:

 

Holy homebrew wiring, Batman! (yes, that's a Honda CRX battery. It's in better condition than the Bronco battery I had there.) I'm basically shorting out the solenoid signal lead and it does turn the starter meaningfully for a bit. Of course, my wire gets hot enough that I can't hold onto it and strands braze themselves to the battery terminals. Just wait until you see my starter button :-D

 

Here's a bundle of wires on the firewall that weren't hooked up to anything. Ideas?

 

Fluids: no brake fluid, plenty of hydraulic clutch fluid

 

Vacuum advance needs vacuum, right? Yeah, I thought so. Where is this supposed to hook up?

 

Wee little vac line on ONE carb (not both). Is this supposed to go to the distributor for its vac signal?

 

Broken line that connected what looks like a brake proportioning valve to a ... something valve on the driver's fender. I'm not entirely sure what this is supposed to do, but I'm fairly convinced that it's only draining brake fluid in an extremely efficient manner. Is this necessary?

 

 

Please bear in mind, this only needs to be "good enough". I'm not going to waste my time building an l24 when I already have an l28et. I do think it'll make a great daily driver if i toss a fresh mild/aggressive cam into it. So, it's worth getting running if only to test out the car's suspension, chassis, bushings, and electrical systems before throwing a bigger, more powerful motor into it. That being said, any advice anybody can offer would be greatly appreciated. I've been going through my Hayne's manual compulsively but it seems simpler (and more social) to just toss my questions and pictures up here. Post whatever you want, I just want to hear from you guys and get this thing on the road (with a BRE air dam and a slightly shorter spring/strut combo... perhaps 1" lower or so).

[drummingpariah]

I picked up a starter, battery, and coil today. It cranks nicely, sucks plenty of air in the carbs (enough to feel it in either carb with your hands while choking it), gets fuel (or starter fluid), but refuses to actually start.

 

So, I can rule out fuel, since I'm spraying starter fluid directly down the intake throat or in the spark plug holes.

 

I can rule out terrible compression, since it pulls on both the spark plug hole and carbs. I have not gone into detail and performed a compression or leakdown test yet, a general idea is good enough for me.

 

When I pulled the plugs, they looked fine but a little on the dark side (running rich). I tested two of the plug wires, which are sparking when held to the block. I did not test all 6, since the other four were BP5, not BP6 series (they run colder and I plan to replace them anyway).

 

The coil is 6v, and says it runs sans resister. I wired it up to the distributor and battery, and offers a moderate spark. I'm only using 14ga wire for the coil wiring, which seemed sufficient but now I'm not so sure.

 

I'm still trying to diagnose exactly what's going on, but it seems like I'm just not getting enough juice to the incorrect spark plugs. More to come tomorrow, and expect me to get all exciteable this weekend.

[72240z]

The plug in question looks like the wiper to me but it's hard to tell in the pic. I have the factory and aftermarket manuals so if you give me the plug/wire color combo I can tell you for sure.

 

The broken vac line coming of the single su is the vac source for the dizzy and the other one you believe is for the brake I believe is the gas tank vapor vent. It goes to a vac port on the air cleaner assembly.

 

For it not firing I would check the firing order because if 2 of the plugs are firing and your spraying fuel into the carbs manually you should still get a pop pop even if it doesn't start.

 

Hope that helps, good luck.

Edited February 20, 2009 by 72240z

[Skib]

Vacuum advance needs vacuum, right? Yeah, I thought so. Where is this supposed to hook up?

 

Broken line that connected what looks like a brake proportioning valve to a ... something valve on the driver's fender. I'm not entirely sure what this is supposed to do, but I'm fairly convinced that it's only draining brake fluid in an extremely efficient manner. Is this necessary?

 

1. any open vac line on the intake mani should do it

 

2. mine looks like that too, always have. IDK what its for, i had alot of stuff hacked out before i got the car :eek:

[drummingpariah]

1. any open vac line on the intake mani should do it

 

2. mine looks like that too, always have. IDK what its for, i had alot of stuff hacked out before i got the car :eek:

 

Thanks skib, if your car is running without issues, I'll go out on a limb and say it'll be ok to cap that line off.

 

I'm still running into the spark problem. Today I picked up new plugs and wires, wired them up, and tried to start it. At first, it tried like the little engine that could. After a few minutes of testing (with ether, without ether, with choke, without choke, with throttle, without throttle, combinations thereof) I noticed that the coil is really pretty freakin' hot. It says it doesn't need a ballast resister, but I'm not entirely convinced. It also says it runs on a 6vDC connection, and the car is (obviously) running 12vDC. I'm no electrician, but an electronic component getting hot generally indicates a short somewhere. Suggestions?

[72240z]

Why ask for advice then ignore it lol? The gas tank vapor vent is important and capping it gains nothing. Besides that the port is inches away right on the air cleaner assembly........

 

Any vac source works for the advance but the strongest, closest one gives you the best response, that's why datsun put the stock one where they did....

 

Again, good luck.

[drummingpariah]

Why ask for advice then ignore it lol? The gas tank vapor vent is important and capping it gains nothing. Besides that the port is inches away right on the air cleaner assembly........

 

Any vac source works for the advance but the strongest, closest one gives you the best response, that's why datsun put the stock one where they did....

 

Again, good luck.

 

It's that important? Would that keep it from running properly? Should it vent somewhere else? There was a rubber hose on the end of it that looked like it was supposed to connect to but wasn't actually attached to anything. It just didn't make much sense to me.

[72240z]

It's that important? Would that keep it from running properly? Should it vent somewhere else? There was a rubber hose on the end of it that looked like it was supposed to connect to but wasn't actually attached to anything. It just didn't make much sense to me.

 

It's not THAT imp but gasoline evaps in the tank and the pressure needs somewhere to go. If you cap it you will prob just get a hiss when you open the gas cap by why even risk anything. It's right there and so is the vac port it goes to. Do things right is my point I guess.....

 

You can just leave it open but it will vent into the atmosphere instead of in your combustion chamber. Get your moneys worth, you paid for that vapor :-).

 

Did you get a chance to check that mystery plug?

[drummingpariah]

It's not THAT imp but gasoline evaps in the tank and the pressure needs somewhere to go. If you cap it you will prob just get a hiss when you open the gas cap by why even risk anything. It's right there and so is the vac port it goes to. Do things right is my point I guess.....

 

You can just leave it open but it will vent into the atmosphere instead of in your combustion chamber. Get your moneys worth, you paid for that vapor :-).

 

Did you get a chance to check that mystery plug?

 

That makes a lot of sense. Maybe that's why most Z's always smell like fuel vapor: the vent line is broken/clogged/leaking/venting-to-atmo. I'm used to seeing fuel vapor lines going to the gas cap (or thereabouts) but venting into the engine seems to make a lot of sense.

 

Today I intend to find out exactly how my coil is supposed to be running. Just because it says it doesn't require a resistor doesn't mean it's right. I think what I want is a 12v coil with a 3v resistor (I think it's supposed to run 9v to the plugs, but I need to double-check that).

[bonvo]

points are more then likely out of adjustment throwing your timing way the hell out there just a thought

[72240z]

That makes a lot of sense. Maybe that's why most Z's always smell like fuel vapor: the vent line is broken/clogged/leaking/venting-to-atmo. I'm used to seeing fuel vapor lines going to the gas cap (or thereabouts) but venting into the engine seems to make a lot of sense.

 

Today I intend to find out exactly how my coil is supposed to be running. Just because it says it doesn't require a resistor doesn't mean it's right. I think what I want is a 12v coil with a 3v resistor (I think it's supposed to run 9v to the plugs, but I need to double-check that).

 

Ya there is quite the set up on the z. behind the passenger rear interior panel is a reservoir tank with 3 lines from the gas tank running to it. Then from it there is one line running to the fuel fill neck after the cap then the long hard line running up to the engine bay. Those lines get old and funky, you let pressure build up maybe it escapes inside the car :-X. Maybe one day you fill the tank and fuel siphons out into the car. There is a whole host of reasons I believe the system should be kept in tact.

 

On the later z's instead of going directly to the engine it goes to the charcoal canister to be scrubbed then to the motor.

 

Any updates on ignition?

[drummingpariah]

I bought the wrong coil, and it's not firing correctly. I have the new 12v coil, but have to wait until the weekend for a new resistor to come in. After that, I don't really see any reason for it not to fire up.

 

Checked the distributor air gap and points, and it actually seems to have been recently serviced (before it sat for awhile). No complaints there.

 

Does anybody have a picture of their resistor, by any chance? What coil are you guys successfully running on an l24 and what is the resistance (in ohms) on your resistor? I have a mounting hole next to my coil, but there's just nothing there.

[Skib]

 

Does anybody have a picture of their resistor, by any chance? What coil are you guys successfully running on an l24 and what is the resistance (in ohms) on your resistor? I have a mounting hole next to my coil, but there's just nothing there.

 

I can snap one tomorrow for ya (its cold and pouring rain out lol)

[drummingpariah]

I can snap one tomorrow for ya (its cold and pouring rain out lol)

 

Don't sweat it dude, I just ordered one. I think I've got it covered. Hopefully it'll get here this week so I can fire this beast up this weekend. I'm excited to hear it run.

 

Still need a master cylinder rod though. I'm going to TRY to get a picture of it, it's pretty badly bent.

[Skib]

Don't sweat it dude, I just ordered one. I think I've got it covered. Hopefully it'll get here this week so I can fire this beast up this weekend. I'm excited to hear it run.

 

Still need a master cylinder rod though. I'm going to TRY to get a picture of it, it's pretty badly bent.

 

 

 

i couldnt get a pic of it but the numbers appear to read 234186.

 

 

a master for the clutch?

i think i might have a NIB one around here lol

[280zx2by2]

drummingpariah when you go to replace those floor pans can you get a couple good pics of how your doing it w/o replacing the floor rails? im about to have to go through the same thing but of a little lesser severity of rust

 

btw did you get a discount after the car was wrecked? lol