Jump to content

Wrecking Yard Report


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It might be a cool thing if there was a place in the forum for a junk yard report... or not... it's great that there is this web site.

 

Friday 7/20 I was at Porltand Wrecking on Columbia Blvd. There were two 620s that were pretty picked over but still had some goodies here and there. There was a '76 with a pretty intact L18 an OK tailgate and two nice doors that somebody stripped the window regulators out of, too bad. There were four 720s but I'm not really interested in them so I didn't look past the engines/trannys. Nothing to write home about. Usually, there is a 521 and some Z cars or a 1200, but there were no nissan cars in the whole place this time.

 

I'm looking for Hardbodies to get front suspension parts to put discs on my 620. I have never seen a single one in the last three years or so.

 

I hope to hit a couple more yards to day.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I went out there looking for Ranger parts in the first place but I'm always looking for any kind of 620 spares.

 

I don't really know what I want to do about brakes yet. I just found the threads on the brake swaps and read the whole thing. I'm going to have to read it again a couple more times. Beebani does seem to have sorted it out pretty cheaply.

 

I think I need to think about how much I care about how I want it to look. Do I want to lower it? Do I want to spend money on wheels? What size wheels and tires do I want? I don't know. I don't have to make up my mind right now because I have lots of other work to do. I just cut all the hooks and handles off the bed and tailgate. I got rid off the bumps and the mounting plates and welded the holes shut. I modified the latching mechanism from a 720 tailgate so that the handle to open the tailgate is on the inside. I'm going to take the bed off so that I can paint a different color. Still have a lot of body work and prep before I can paint.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

well man its gonna cost me an over all $300 to do my front brakes using beebanis brackets.. $250 of its just loaded calipers, rotors, brake lines and m/c honestly.. thats a pretty good deal.. i dont have cores to use to make it cheaper.. but i figure Next time one goes bad.. i will so $300 for brand spankin new wonderful front disc brakes is a good deal in my opinion.. as for your truck.. you dont want to go bigger then 18" wheels i'd say about 16 is perfect maybe even 17.. and depending what wheels u get you may need spacers or adapters for extra clearance.. i went with chevy tahoe wheels with kuhmo tires.. i forget the size but they're really wide with a good couple inchs of sidewall still.. honestly i wish i would have gotten them a bit skinnier and a bit more "low profile".. as for lowering your truck its really easy to lower the front with the torsion bars but the back requires blocks.. if u like the rake look use 2 or 2.5 inch blocks.. if u want a nice even lowering job use 3" angled blocks so the drive line is still "straight" .. wheel options are chevy, nissan, toyota and some other things.. if u do the disc conversion beware of clearance behind the wheel if the wheels are too small it'll rub..

 

mytruck002jt2.jpg

 

mytruck003zm0.jpg

 

mytruck001hg7.jpg

 

i need to take more pics

  • Like 3
Link to comment

I knew i should have posted this a few months ago LOL,I beleive if i'm not mistaken,when i bought the '73 from steroid he didn't have a complete set only 1 came with truck but i could be wrong.I'll Email him and ask I don't mind the travel just as long as it is a complete set,they will be going on the '73.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Tacoma (Lakewood) Pull-A-Part, Thurs Aug 2:

 

2 620s, both drum-brake shortbed '76/77s. L20B in one is intact, the other has the head off (though the block is loose in the compartment, more on that later). One had an unmolested dash fascia (3-hole radio section still intact). No, no tachs. Between the 2, basically a whole truck worth of good body panels and glass (except the bed)

 

1 280ZX 2+2, still has the engine and 5-speed tranny. I was going to pull it but got too hot.

 

2 1980 720s, engines relatively intact, but both EI dists were gone (I took teh one that was still there)

 

1 NAPS-Z Hardbody, timing cover gone and rockers off (someone pulled a few valve springs). I wanted the oil pump but it was gone with the timing cover.

 

1 NAPS-Z '81 510 hatchback, head off and was an Automatic (I STILL can't find a NAPS-Z dogleg)

 

1 80s 210

1 80s 310 (didn't look in either)

 

I only got 2 parts- the EI dist of one '80 720 and the 5-speed out of one of the 620s. Why did I pull the tranny out of the 620 instead of the 280ZX? Yes, I know it's easier to pull from a ZX, but the 620 was in the next row to be crushed, AND the driveshaft, half the tranny bolts (notably both upper ones), and the tailpipe were all removed already. But man, pulling a 5-speed from a 620 is a pain in the rear. Fortunately the block, with no head, was fairly light. The tie rod was off too. So I just unbolted the tranny mount and the engine mounts (even the oil filter came off with just my gloved hands, and I'm not much for strength) and yanked the engine forward up onto the front frame rail.

 

That was mistake #1, because the tranny came with it. In reality I was trying to get clearance for the top bolts, only to find they weren't there. Hadn't unbolted the last 2 bolts, and now it had slipped off the crossmember. It wouldn't go back again to clear the clutch. I should have left the tranny bolted to the crossmember when yanking the engine forwards. Eventually I used a jack handle to pry the tranny tail back over the welded crossmember, unbolted what I could of the tranny crossmember (one bolt was stuck, I only brought a socket set) and bent it out of the way. Tranny fell out, so I checked for noticeable wear and called it good.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Doug, I wish you had not mentioned the "in tact Dash facia"...I am lookin for that only..seems as though all I find down here are ones that have been broken in half or with a huge hole where the radio should go....darn.....

Link to comment

Really? Then you wouldn't want to hear that BOTH are intact. One is the A/C type (without the vents, though- it had the metal radio bracket behind it) the other is the early type with the radio holes molded in.

 

They want $16.50 plus tax for 'em, and I don't know what shipping would be- probably around $15 since they're long.

 

Oh, they have little blemishes that you can't see in the back (see 'em when out, but they're good when in) and the 3-hole one needs the heater control face glued back in (it's loose).

 

They were nice enough that I bought both, so if you want one shoot me a PM.

 

 

On another note, I need to revise what cars are there- I missed some.

 

1 610 4-door

1 B210 2-door

1 early 80s 200SX (S110 type) with a knife through the windshield

2 Pulsars

1 more NAPS-Z 720 with late style bed.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.