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Charlie69's 66 520 Build


Charlie69

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Thank you Farmer, Leche, & Redeye for the kind words.  These comments keep me motivated and driving forward on the build.  The difference might be the 1980 chassis as the steering gear box is outside the frame farmer.  Not really sure of any other differences in the early 720 and the late and ealy 620 frames.

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I forgot these in my last post.  These were not stock on my 520 being a 66 but I have the 1980 720 harness that has the wiring so I will install them.  I am comtemplating also using the delayed off bome light from one of my 720 ST harnesses.  When ever I come across a ST in the wrecking yard I pull the harness and all the switches and relays and anything electrical that is there when I find it that is in useable condition.  And NO I WILL NOT SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP for this as I enjoy this!  LOL

 

Niles made in japan Datsun replacement door dome light switchess.

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I forgot these in my last post.  These were not stock on my 520 being a 66 but I have the 1980 720 harness that has the wiring so I will install them.  I am comtemplating also using the delayed off bome light from one of my 720 ST harnesses.  When ever I come across a ST in the wrecking yard I pull the harness and all the switches and relays and anything electrical that is there when I find it that is in useable condition.  And NO I WILL NOT SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP for this as I enjoy this!  LOL

 

Niles made in japan Datsun replacement door dome light switchess.

DSC02571.jpg

 

Got some of those for my 521, too!  Someday...

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Matt.  If you decide  to redo your wiring I use the 1980 720 harnesses in my truck builds.  On this build I had to add seaveral  circuits the 1980 did not have such as the electric fuel pump circuit.  I remove the circuits I want from later model 720 harnesses and add them to the 1980 720.

 

The 1980 720 wiring harnes is for the L20B and 4 or 5 speed manual or the 3 speed automatic.  The biggest benifits to using the 1980 harnwess is:

1. No ECU

2. Relayed circuits

3. Blade fuses in the cab

4. Approximately 10 years newer

 

This harness is set up for internal regulated alternator, matchbox, and electric choke.

 

I will say it can be a lot of work to swap harnesses if you are doing like I am.

 

I love the OEM NOS parts.

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Gene and I went to a junk yard yesterday and today to pull parts off a Quest van for my 520 build and a 72 620 for Gene's nephew's truck and Mark (Pacific Coast Datsun) 74 620 truck.

 

Mark has been haviving wiring problems and the harness and switches will give Mark and myself parts to work with to fix his wiring.

 

I pulled the main engine bay wiring and battery tray from an early Nissan Quest van.  I will cut the battery tray down to fit my 520 battery.

 

I removed all but one bracket from the battery tray and will weld back the brackets I need. 

 

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I will keep on it as I have time.  Back to AZHitman's tomorrow to help with his 620 that he is doing the Beebani 4 link, my brother welded it all up last weekend and tomorrow We hope to get the front upper and lower control arms on and finish the welding of the lowers. 

 

I remember back when I was a rough framer (carpenter) it was good if we were with in 1/8".  Working on this project it is good if we are within a 1/4".  LOL

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Shes looking good Charlie I like the battery box / tray idea. Thank you guys for getting the wiring harness out of that 620, I think all ill need is the light switch...the dimmer & the ignition switch as a backup.

By the way be carefull not to scratch your primer LoL

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Heading to Tucson on Thursday to see about some parts off a 1966 & 1967 520s.  I am hoping to score a fender and some other parts.

 

I hope to get the torsion bars on and the gas tank mounted this weekend.  I hope to take it to the exhaust shop soon. 

 

I have a 2 questions.  I have a U67 square port head, can I run a round port exhaust manifold?  If I can run the round port manifold which gasket would be best to run, square port gasket or round port gasket?

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I ran a square port exhaust manifold on a round port head for a little while, it worked alright, but I have heard that the gasket will not last long.

I also heard that a round port exhaust manifold will not work on a square port head, but that is what I heard.

I went with a header after getting my new super head I had made way back in the late 90s, would not do that ever again, had to change out the header so many times, but this one has lasted quite a while now, but I don't put the miles on it that I used to.

You should find an L16 exhaust manifold Charlie, it will last forever and will not be as noisy, just make sure that the exhaust pipe coming out of where the 2 tubes come together is larger than what the L16 came with.

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Thanks Wayno for the information.  I have a L16 exhaust manifold on it that has the 2 into 1 collector.  The stock 1980 AC compressor does not clear the exhaust manifold so I will source a late 720 or a Hardbody AC compressor.

 

I will be having my left knee replaced in February or March.  Will know a date in the next couple of weeks hopefully.  I also volunteered to go in if there is a cancelation.  This means another 5 to 6 months of rehab.  So I will miss Canby this year.  I was hoping to go.

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That 2 into one collector is the part I don't like, the stock L16 had a very small pipe, that needs to be opened up to except a larger pipe.

You could look around for a good header, one that is made out of thick pipe instead of that thin shit "Top End" sells, but it likely will be expensive, but they are out there.

So you will not come to Canby because you would miss one or maybe two rehab appointments?

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I will still be using a walker at the time Canby is.  It was 6 weeks after my surgery before I started therapy last time.  Staples come out between 4 and 6 weeks.  If I miss an appointment my insurance will not cover any more appointments for my knee.

 

There will hopefully be Canby 13 and I hope to make that one sporting 2 new knees!  LOL

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