Nissan_Boy85 Posted June 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Charlie, electric fan conversion works like a charm. I wish I had used a different fan that had fit better, but they do the job. I used a Painless Performance fan wiring kit (part # 30115) for the wiring side. Perfect for what I wanted. I was able to use the provided thermostat in a factory drilled hole in the intake and wire it using all the provided clips and connections. Plus I am able to use the a/c side of the relay as a backup switch if I think it's getting too hot and the fans haven't turned on yet. Also, I used a water pump from a 78 280Z (exact same pump, just without the fan clutch) and the water pump pulley off a 94 Hardbody. Some additional hardware needs to be purchased (for the pulley to bolt to the pump and to replace the bolts that will be blocked in by the z24 pump) but it was well worth it. Lastly, I used the fans from a first generation Maxima. They are slightly too large for the OE radiator area but they do the job. I trimmed off the factory mounts and had to cut slightly into the shroud to make it fit around the hose openings correctly but it all worked. Haven't tested it in heat you might be seeing though. Another option that I have heard about for the conversion is using the same setup, but using a fan from a 06 Chevy Cobalt. Same idea, but it's a single fan. Less wiring to be done, plus it fits the radiator better. Here you can see some of the trimming I had to do around the upper hose fitting. The bottom got the same treatment. I did not have to go into the actual fan opening though. The way the picture is makes it look like there is a fitment issue. There is none, I can get my hand down and around the shroud and past to pulley easily. 1 Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 All right! Canby has come and gone, and I have been driving the piss out of it. Rebuilt the carb, took it to a couple shows, did some cruising, overall very happy to have this thing back in my stable. Now [shameless plug] I want sidedrafts! If anyone has an intake for a NAP-Z laying around that they don't need, shoot me a message! I'll have cash next week so lets make it happen Ratsun! [/shameless plug]. Until then, does anyone have any idea's how to make a 32/36 throttle not "stick" when hot? For example from today, I spend about 45 minutes on the highway at a constant 3000-3300 RPMs and when I got off, the throttle took forever to "bleed off" (for lack of a better term) to about 2000 where it stayed. It did this all the way home to a varying degree but not going down below 2000 RPM's. Even if I try to knock it down with a quick blip of the throttle, it won't go below 1500, if even that far. But, if I go out, pop my hood, and manually move the throttle back to resting on the idle screw, it idles exactly where I set it to. Any idea's? I can do a temporary fix if I carb clean the linkage and the butterflies, but it doesn't last for long. Only does it when it's hot, and worse if I dip into the secondary. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Attach a spring between the car throttle linkage and something else to help out the return spring. I've read of lots of people doing that 1 Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 So hook it to something farther from the original mounting point to basically get more tension out of it? Makes sense. Looking at the spring, looks like I wouldn't be the first one to do so. It's been overstretched before. Good theory to test though, thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Correct me if I'm wrong Hobo, but I think he means attach the spring somewhere else in your engine bay. The rear bolt hole in the middle of the valve cover is a good spot to attach it, then hook it to the throttle linkage so it pulls it back to idle. 2 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Correct me if I'm wrong Hobo, but I think he means attach the spring somewhere else in your engine bay. The rear bolt hole in the middle of the valve cover is a good spot to attach it, then hook it to the throttle linkage so it pulls it back to idle. Correct me if I'm wrong Hobo, but I think he means attach the spring somewhere else in your engine bay. The rear bolt hole in the middle of the valve cover is a good spot to attach it, then hook it to the throttle linkage so it pulls it back to idle. So hook it to something farther from the original mounting point to basically get more tension out of it? Makes sense. Looking at the spring, looks like I wouldn't be the first one to do so. It's been overstretched before. Good theory to test though, thanks! yes this, sorry, i kinda spaced out in the advice there. as a secondary spring to the already present return spring. and you might want to replace the current if it already looks overstretched 2 Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Moar updates! I've been driving it for 900 miles or so. Missed blue lake due to family reasons but I have this thing as dialed as it's going to be. The throttle issue is fixed (work throttle shaft at the carb) so I was able to take it to my tuner finally. Got the thing not running pig rich so now it doesn't hurt so bad when I got to put premium in it. But the downside is now that it's running correctly and timed properly, I've realized the 32/36 I have is not enough carb for what I've built. If I richen the mixture and increase the timing its got some balls, but that's no way to drive it on the street, especially with how bad it pings. So after I finalize buying my house, I'll be looking for either some 45 DCOE's or converting to EFI using a mixture of Z20E and KA parts. I'm leaning more towards EFI since I will most likely be installing a turbo later, but time and money will tell. In the mean time, it will be out and about around Vancouver so give me a wave or a ratsun salute! 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 But the downside is now that it's running correctly and timed properly, I've realized the 32/36 I have is not enough carb for what I've built. For what it's worth, I had similar issues and switched to a 38/38 and it solved the problem. And it's an easier/cheaper fix that DCOEs or EFI. Worth a shot? 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Or even a 350cfm Holley 2bbl? ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 38/38 would be more of an improvement over the 32/36 and the Holley, but since this is not a daily anymore, it's balls to the wall. Anyways, working on a buddies truck and swapping parts, I was stupid and didn't disconnect the battery. Long story short I need one of these, the block coming from the battery terminal going to the 3 separate connectors.. If anyone has one to spare PM me! 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Thank you for the fan info nice install. That is the fusible link in the picture above. Nissan for new or wrecking yard for used. This is what I did to my Weber to keep the idle down. I also clean (aerosol carb cleaner) and lube the linkage with silicone spray lube. Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted September 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Part numbers! Perfect! Thank you so much Charlie. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 You are welcome. Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 I am looking for any information on the thermostat housing in this picture. I'm hoping someone out there has some other then they come in sidedraft kits. Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 I am looking for any information on the thermostat housing in this picture. I'm hoping someone out there has some other then they come in sidedraft kits. Thanks. Have you tried asking Pierce or Redline if they will sell you one separately? They are the ones that offer that kit. In a similar pickle. Just got one of these intakes sans the thermostat housing. Found out Summit offers a billet version of these in several different sizes. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-wn0072/overview/ 1 Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted November 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 I looked on their sites and there was no separate option. I was gonna try calling them tomorrow and asking. I have one of the billet ones right now but I need the option for both bungs in the housing to run my temp gauge sensor and my temp switch for my fans. Would totally be willing to trade if someone wanted. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 I know it's not optimal but you could also run a temp sensor adaptor pipe, at least for now. Like the one I linked below. They can also be found in some Nissan's like 240sx. This is only one example, there are lots of options out there. https://www.z1motorsports.com/cooling/z1-motorsports/coolant-temp-sensor-adapter-p-2822.html?osCsid=ltpsft8h9hvreikso23hnejkh0 1 Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Yeah I got one of the OE 240sx in line deals but I still loose one of the 2 sensors unless I try and weld in a bung on the other side. I can use it if I have to but I got 5 months until the next planned outing for it so I got a little time. FYI weber carbs direct says they won't sell it stand alone. I've ran into an issue though. I've picked up a set of Weber 45 DCOE's and most the goodies to go with it. My issue is the fact that I will be loosing my vacuum advance since the 45's have no vacuum ports for this. I want to convert to a mechanical advance but info on this is lacking at best. Any help is appricated! 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Install a tee on the 240sx unit. Ugly but gets you both sensors. 1 Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Doing more work on it and came up with more questions. 1. With putting the side drafts on, I am loosing my PCV. Am I just able to vent it to atmosphere or an inline PCV with some contraption on the manifold or is a catchcan not a bad idea? 2. I'm trying to clean up the engine bay, can you move the valve cover vent to the back of the cover and close up the leftover hole? 1 Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Answered my own questions. However, in the terms of progress....new valve cover being painted. 240sx temp housing modified for use. Rain gutter for use inside the fender to redirecting water away from the tucked wire harness. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Nicely done! 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Thank you for the fan info nice install. That is the fusible link in the picture above. Nissan for new or wrecking yard for used. This is what I did to my Weber to keep the idle down. I also clean (aerosol carb cleaner) and lube the linkage with silicone spray lube. I've seen you post this mod a few tires, Charlie. Where did you get that plate attached to the valve cover that the springs anchored to? 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 And great job on building your engine up nicely, NB! Did you calculate the compression on those flat top pistons after have the reliefs cut? 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 It is off a mid 70s GM truck with a HP V8 engine. It is a common part for GM cars and trucks and is a carburetor return spring bracket. 1 Quote Link to comment
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