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Starter clicks but wont turn engine


Drfixit

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Long story short I have to short out the terminals on the starter to start my L18 equipped 69 521. Checked battery cables, battery charge etc. So what do you think...is it the ignition switch, wiring to/from ignition switch or the starter solenoid? When I turn the key to start you can hear the loud click of the starter solenoid but it don't start the starter turning anymore. I can short the terminals on the starter and it kicks the engine right over every single time. Time for a new starter? All help appreciated....

 

Mark

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If there is a loud click at the starter, it is probably not the wiring or ignition switch. A faint click might be a problem with the ignition switch.

 

If you jump the two large terminals at the starter and it goes, then it may be the solenoid.

 

If you are only jumping from + to S terminal, then it's not the solenoid, look for wiring problems instead.

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Solenoid sounds bad. This doesn't happen much. Try to find it separate rather than paying for a whole starter that works. Try a yard.

 

 

Undo the two 10mm? bolts and it lifts out and off. There is a hook shaped spring that has to engage inside the starter just take note when you remove the solenoid.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L20Bgrstarters001.jpg[/img]"]L20Bgrstarters001.jpg

Edited by datzenmike
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Here's another trick that might work...

 

I had a similar problem in my ZX. I wore out the ring gear on the flywheel, so even after I got a new starter, the pinion gear wouldn't engage.

 

I could put it in gear and rock the car back and fourth, and finally, the gears would mesh, and it would start. Not sure if this is your problem, but it may be worth a try...:mellow:

 

Later, -hughdogz

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DrFixit, I just had the same problem with my 78 KC. It had started last winter and when it was cold mornings especially it would just click and not engage the starter. I could keep clicking the switch several times and it would finally start or I could jump the terminals on the starter and start it. My battery was fully charged and all wiring was tight so I decided to get a new starter. I could get a Limited lifetime starter at O'reilys for just a little more than the solenoid,($30), so I got the starter and installed it and it is working fine now. I did pull the solenoid off the old starter and found the arm that engages the starter drive was either broken or something was worn on the starter drive because it was just flopping around and not capable of working right every time. Like DatzenMike said, You might be able to find a good used one at the JY but I don't have that luxury where I live. From what I've read, the original starters are much better than the re-built stuff they sell today. But the folks here at the local parts store are good about honoring these warantys and I get a lot of stuff replaced free when they fail or wear out (brake pads, etc). Hope you get it going soon. Dan

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Well of course dumb ass me cant be told anything. I replace the starter and that was the problem, however, the only thing I can find is a cheapo $29 remanufactured piece of crap you all told me not to buy. But I did anyway and guess what. It worked for awhile and now the bendex spring wont always enguage. So I have a new starter and a different problem. I have the old starter which is also a remanufactured POS the previous owner had just put it. Would it do any good to take that starter to a good shop and have them rebuild it? If not guess its searching pick and pull for a Nissan starter and having that one rebuilt.

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Time yourself!

Thats what I did when I bought rebuilt Schucks starters.

See how fast you can change them out. I got pretty good at it with those lifetime gareentees(sp)

 

most important upgrades to daily driver Datsun 510/521

new heater hoses

Elelctronic ignition Pertronix or Matchbox or 1st gen IE nissan w/gm module

Weber DGV carb

Nissan Starters or Alternators or GM one wire unit.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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When it comes to working on my ride in the cold I am a pussy so as long as it works I am gonna let it be while I look for a good quality unit. How do you know what other models have starters that will fit your engine? In my case does the engine have to be an L18? Where do you find all this cross over information?

 

Thanks as usual-

 

Mark

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  • 8 years later...

Having this clicking problem with my 79 Datsun Wagon L20B starter. Got two starters, now. 1st. one clicks only so I connect the two bolts and it either spins or starts engine. 2nd. one is a new remanufactured, from Napa. It's on now but has the same issues or makes a struggling, grinding noise. Any input, any1???

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Find the small start signal wire on the starter solenoid. Take it off and jumper 12 volts directly from the battery to it and it should spin the starter every time. If it does this just means that the signal from the ignition switch is weak. After all the voltage has to go all the way to the ignition and back through the harness to the starter and the wire is small and old. 

 

As Richard suggested, you can use this weak signal to trip a small relay that is connected directly to the battery for a stronger signal to the solenoid. I had this exact same thing on both my 710s.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/102-hot-start-relay/

 

fordsol-Wire-diagrams-easy-simple-detail

 

 

You want a cheap source for relays? Any 720 or early/mid '80 Nissan car. Get the plug and cut the wires long.

 

acfanrelay.jpg

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