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Alright guys heres the situation, lowered my truck @ 2-3 months ago and it realy is a tuff ride, i drive it locally but i'm reary about driving it on the highway to my work(about 60 miles from my house!) i just dont know if it will take that much abuse on california highways, my question is, is there any suspension upgrades i can do without getting realy technicle i will do new shocks in the back but my main concern is in the front, i've asked a few people about it but half of them have never even heard of datsuns- they just dont understand!!! thanks in advance, d.d.

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If you mean, can the truck take it, I'd say yes. Be sure the cooling system is in good shape, good belts, oil and filters (air and gas too) changed and transmission and rear end checked and topped up. Definitely adjust those front and rear drum brakes. Check your spare and jack, and carry extra water. Around home it's fine, but you don't want to be stranded half way to work.

 

If you are worried about the lowered suspension just remember the heaviest end of the truck will travel the furthest when hitting dips or uneven pavement. And that would be the front, so do the front shocks first. It wouldn't hurt to turn the torsion bars up an inch for an extra margin of travel. The freeways are fairly level aren't they? no man hole lids? Put the maximum recommended air pressure in your tires for high speed driving, it's better for the tires and lessens suspension travel.

 

I'd like to say, why would you lower a truck so much that you can't drive it on the road, but I went the other way, higher, and that has it's own unique set of different problems when driving. Vive la difference!

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driving it on the highway to my work(about 60 miles from my house!) i just dont know if it will take that much abuse on california highways
Sure it can take it. Remember back in the 70s we drove faster (70 or 75 mph speed limit), and the 620s were built to take it.

 

Dunno about the lowering bit though.

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I would either remove or cut in half the front bump stops. If your only dropped 2 inches in front youll never hit a bump large enough to bottom out. I drive my 620 a few inches off the ground & it rides fine...but i also modified the front shock towers & installed new shocks bought @ Napa for $45 & the rear is on air bags/ 2 link.

4-9w320rims.jpg

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The truck is lowered only 3in. in the back and @ 2 1/2 in the front, but the desert roads i live in are horrible for any vehicle, i'm not running low profiles i've got 195's all the way around and tire pressure is good, i just dont want to get stranded on the interstate 15 in the middle of nowhere! I'm gonna try it this week and pray my tax dollars have no manholes.

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You think it's a rough ride when lowered... try when they're stock and empty.

 

Me, I have a '76 Longbed with ADDED springs. You can carry a piano in the back of that... it almost gets comforable by then. The 265/75 R16 tires take care of the little bumps though.

 

My stock '74 gets the rear end airborne on rough freeways when empty, since the rear is too light to compress the springs at all.

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I have 3 inch blocks in back (rubber stops on frame taken or cut off

 

front I have turn down as far as it will go(with out indexing the torsion bar)

 

I do just fine on mine, I run 185/ 65 /15 on chrome Pathfinders

 

If you want a little stiffer up front buy some KYB Gas a Just shocks(kinda expensive)

 

Jeff Hino Low ,I say is too low for me. Dont want to hit a steel plate at night doing 45-60 mph or faster(if no signs posted)

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I'm gonna take it to work tommorow,so if no one heres from me for awhile i'll be pushing the 620 on interstate 15!!!...j/k!!!, It'll be my test run for longbeach, I think it will make it with no problems i just wanted to get some honest opinions- thanks everyone!

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If you want a little stiffer up front buy some KYB Gas a Just shocks(kinda expensive)

 

 

THESE?

 

or

 

THESE...

 

I want something stiffer for the front, as ive got the 18's and the torsion bars cranked as far as they will go without being re-indexed..

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The top ones,the Gas A Just at 38$ white with the red lettering

 

I got mine for 100 for all 4 (new on box from a guy selling them)

I sold the reaf to Jeff Hino and said it helped from bottoming out to fast in the back.

 

The fronts are very stiff. You might need to add washers or use the old rubber between the shock and the plate where it goes thru so the nut is fully secure.

 

They are a little expensive its up to you if you get them or not.

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The top ones,the Gas A Just at 38$ white with the red lettering

 

I got mine for 100 for all 4 (new on box from a guy selling them)

I sold the reaf to Jeff Hino and said it helped from bottoming out to fast in the back.

 

The fronts are very stiff. You might need to add washers or use the old rubber between the shock and the plate where it goes thru so the nut is fully secure.

 

They are a little expensive its up to you if you get them or not.

no offense Hainz

not trying to talk bad about anybody but if $38 bucks a Shock is expensive for a good ride...:confused::confused: I just dont get how people can be that cheap and as far as I am concerned KYBs are one of my last choices for a shock.I would spend the money on a Koni or a bilstein I think the shocks for a early Camaro are a 7" body shock and work out for the front of the 620s and 521s and ... just my two cents. hope I didnt offend anyone

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Amen brutha!

 

Thanks Fineline i'm sure people will say that your upgrade to the coil overs will be "TOO MUCH MONEY" (looks great by the way...gunna let me drive it??) but hey thats their choice count me in for a set :D:D

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