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Slotted Rear Cross Member


DatDoug

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Where do I get one of these? I want to lower my dime and do some suspension work.

 

Kelvin Dietz makes a very nice adjustable crossmember. You can buy it here.

 

9penultimate_assembled.jpg

 

Detailed instructions on building one of these is covered in a past Dime Quarterly issue. DatSport also makes a very cool adjustable rear crossmember.

 

Byron over at the 510 realm makes a VERY cool set of rear camber/toe adjusters. They allow you to properly align the rear on lowered 510's. I plan to run this setup on my 510.

 

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file.php?id=6171&mode=view

 

file.php?id=6170&mode=view

Edited by slodat
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kelvin still makes them, its just that he gets kind of low on cores. I haven't asked him about those crossmembers in a while.

 

I've done the slotted crossmember. The trick is to get a grinding bit that you can notch out the hole enough to allow the bolt to move far enough backwards or forwards. Then basicly once you've grinded out enough (Need to do a lot of grinding), you take it to an alignment shop and give them your desired toe and camber and they adjust it. Then quickly go to a muffler shop or weld your self the washers attached to the bolt in their spot to keep the alignment. Do not weld the bolt but the washers on each side of it. My camber and toe are perfect and because it is welded it won't be moving any time soon. So with an adjustable one you can get a pretty wide range but how often are you really going to be adjusting it? You can get the same results just widening your current holes on your cross member and then welding the washers in place when you are done.

 

Fairly simple. If i've done it than anyone can do it.

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Here is a great article written by Kelvin that explains how to properly slot the rear crossmember.

 

http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_crossmember_slotting.html

 

 

Thanks to the Dime Quarterly for posting this info.

 

good idea posting that. I forgot to metion grinding down the washers. That is exactly how I did mine as guided by Kelvin Dietz. :D

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  • 3 months later...

Just in case you are not up to date.

We have DIY kits for our ARCs.

Not that difficult to do, the clean up is the worst part.

 

Due to the current exchange rate we can supply these to US customers at US$ 220 delivered via Express post.

or US$200 by snail mail.

 

http://www.datsport.com/ARC_DIY_kit_Fitting_instructions.html

 

the OZ dollar is on the way up again so get in quick.

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Just in case you are not up to date.

We have DIY kits for our ARCs.

Not that difficult to do, the clean up is the worst part.

 

Due to the current exchange rate we can supply these to US customers at US$ 220 delivered via Express post.

or US$200 by snail mail.

 

http://www.datsport.com/ARC_DIY_kit_Fitting_instructions.html

 

the OZ dollar is on the way up again so get in quick.

 

what would be the difference between your kit, byrons and a slotted x member?

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Guest jaimesix
Slotted xmembers do not have the adjustment range & slip unless welded.

Byrons & our are fully adjustable.

our balances both ends, easy to adjust on an aligner as it does not require levering into position.

 

more here.

 

http://www.datsport.com/Adjustable_rear_cross_member.html

 

 

I read "610 version available" . Is that current? I know the cross member in 510s and 610s are slightly different.

 

The mounting eye of the 510 X-member is offset to the center. The 610 X-member is offset about one inch forward.

 

The trailing arms are slightly different too, but I think the difference has no bearing.

 

Mad Dat has sloted cross members too, for 1600 ( 510 ) and 180B ( 610 ).

 

http://www.maddat.com.au/180b.php

 

http://www.maddat.com.au/1600.php

 

MD032.jpg

 

 

Jaime._______________________________________________________

Edited by jaimesix
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The 510 kit is the same for the 610.

The start position is 40mm for the 610.

 

Note the maddat xmember uses cams to adjust, the same as our first version which we upgraded immediatly we found that when using an aligner that rotating the cams lifted or dropped the car. This upset the aligner & made adjustment difficult and time consuming.

The cams also give full adjustment with 180 degree rotation of the cam.

Not fine enough for real world application & would not allow adjustments at the track.

 

The advantage of our type of adjustment is that fine adjustments can be made easily on the aligner.

 

At the track adjustments can be made to fine tune the car for the conditions.

 

This can be done without an aligner by small increments, as 0.5 turns on the adjusters can alter the handing till it is where you want it.

 

By noting the turns & positions of the adjusters from your base point different settings can be used for different tyre & track conditions.

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Guest jaimesix

This is a 610 and a 510 cross member units side by side. Note the offsets. 610 is offset forward. 510 is offset at centre.

 

 

23284290358_large.jpg

 

Jaime._______________________________________________________

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  • 4 years later...

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