deadmonkey Posted September 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 No change :angry: Found this. http://www.weberperformance.com.au/pub/32%2036%20DGV.pdf I'm going to take apart the carbs again and get an inventory of what is in there. Something has to be in there wrong or mismatched or something. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 So I changed out the valve stem seals and the rope trick worked great! Here is the #2 and #3 cylinders with rope holding up the valves. Here is a closeup of the new seals. The old seals didn't really look that bad to be honest. They weren't brittle and falling apart like I kind of hoped they would. Thanks go to Skib for helping with re-timing the top end. I messed up on marking the timing chain and had to start over. At least the bottom end stayed timed thanks to the wedge. This is cylinder 1 at 0deg TDC on the compression stroke. The first cam is the exhaust and second is intake. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 No change :angry: Found this. http://www.weberperformance.com.au/pub/32%2036%20DGV.pdf I'm going to take apart the carbs again and get an inventory of what is in there. Something has to be in there wrong or mismatched or something. OK, so here is apparently what the stock original settings are supposed to be. Numbers listed as "left/right" looking at the front of the Weber carb or "primary/secondary". Red is original or recommended bold is what my carb was, Green is what it was changed to. Venturis: 26/27(no Idea what this is) Aux Venturis: 3.50/3.50 - 3.50/3.50 Main Jets: 1.40/1.35 - 1.40/1.40 Emulsion Tubes: F50/F6 - F50/F50 Air Correction Jets: 1.65/1.60 - 1.60/1.70 - 1.70/1.60 Idle Jets: .55/.50 - .50/.60 - .60/.50 Pump Jets: .50 - .50 Needle Valve: 2.00 - 2.00 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 OK, so here is apparently what the stock original settings are supposed to be. Numbers listed as "left/right" looking at the front of the Weber carb or "primary/secondary". Red is original or recommended bold is what my carb was, Green is what it was changed to. Venturis: 26/27(no Idea what this is) Aux Venturis: 3.50/3.50 - 3.50/3.50 Main Jets: 1.40/1.35 - 1.40/1.40 Emulsion Tubes: F50/F6 - F50/F50 Air Correction Jets: 1.65/1.60 - 1.60/1.70 - 1.70/1.60 Idle Jets: .55/.50 - .50/.60 - .60/.50 Pump Jets: .50 - .50 Needle Valve: 2.00 - 2.00 MY DGAV Has the F50 emusion tubes on both sides. I got a DGAS off a J13 that had the F50 F6 Combination and I I had a DFAV off a Volkwagon bug that also ran the F50 F6 emuldion tubes. Try swapping your idle jets. are you sure of the fuel pressure does not exceed 4 lbs? Might set fuel pressure at 3.5 lbs. Webers are real touchy with high fuel pressures. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted October 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 MY DGAV Has the F50 emusion tubes on both sides. I got a DGAS off a J13 that had the F50 F6 Combination and I I had a DFAV off a Volkwagon bug that also ran the F50 F6 emuldion tubes. Try swapping your idle jets. are you sure of the fuel pressure does not exceed 4 lbs? Might set fuel pressure at 3.5 lbs. Webers are real touchy with high fuel pressures. Well, I have the inline fuel pressure deal in from when I had the electric fuel pump in. I am running off the stock pump on the engine and the pressure regulator is behind the pump now, so I don't think it is doing any good. It was doing all this though WITH the pressure regulator in place before I switched pumps. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 Haven't posted on here for a bit. I've been working on the engine rebuild mostly. I got to some primer work today. The door was bondo'd a week or so ago. I still need to tac weld the inside where the window frame meets the door. '76 doors weren't built as good as the '78 doors. Sadly my '78 parts doors are trashed. Worked on the drivers side door today because the sun finally peeked out enough to paint. It's been too long with out paint and needed to sand a bit of flash rust off before primer today. The fenders where done a few weeks ago. I decided to shave the side markers. Down the road I may decide to put in something like this Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 hey are those 14s or 15s you have on there? ive got a set of chrome wheels over here calling your name! lol those fenders look good! 100% better than mine lol! Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 I think they are just lil 14" rims I was thinking of sandblasting these and painting smoked black maybe. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 I haven't posted much on here since I've been working on the engine rebuild (thread link in my sig). I did a few bits of work other than the engine today. I finally got the windshield washer fluid line hooked up. I was wondering if the pump would work or not since I never tested it. It squirted over the cab! One less thing to worry about :) That being said, I only have one of the squirt nozzles and have it on the drivers side for safety. Does anybody have an extra one they can sell me? I need one for the passenger side. I do have an exhaust leak but I think it is just the pipe flange I haven't gotten in there yet to look. I also noticed that the exhaust pipe looks to be touching the oil pan. I did have to take the pipe out to get the engine in and then clamped on a flexible patch in case I need to take it off again. I may have released some pressure and that's why it's now touching. Just another thing on a list of stuff that still needs to be done. I still need to get the fuel sender to start...well, sending. Getting to it is such a pain though. Now that the engine is done I will probably start working on the interior. I still have a roll of sound deadening material that's sitting in my living room waiting to be put in. I want to weld up a crack in the drivers side door before paint can be started. Once the paint is down I can put the sound deadening in the doors and floor and get in the door cards and the carpet! I haven't had carpet in the truck since I bought it and ripped out the house carpet! Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted December 17, 2010 Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 If you use a l18 exhaust its going to hit either the oil pan or transmission depending on how short the flange is cut. The reason is that the l18 exhaust is built for a shorter engine. If your using the stock l20 stuff then I don't know... You seem more smart than me anyways... :) Oh and thanks dead monkey for that exploded view of the weber. I will take mine apart and check on it as well. Maybe this will help you... http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_weber_tuning.html Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 So... did a little work on the truck today. Decided to finally rebuild the vents so the cold air stops rushing in on my cold commute to work and back. I disassembled the vents. Here is before cleaning the old gasket off. Simply bend the pivot points until you can pop it out. Be careful not to loose the tiny plastic bearings! Material is a rubber gasket stuff from the hardware store meant for sinks and comes in a pack of two. I just traced on the outside of the bracket that mounts to the firewall. I wasn't sure what was the best size, but later cut to match the inside diameter of the bracket. Here I just centered the valve plate and traced out the notches on each side. I put a line across so I could fold and line it up since the notches are off center. I used scissors to cut up to the notches. Simply slide the rubber onto one notch and the stretch the other on. Here I just used some extra weather stripping from when I winterized the front door. One side is sticky and stuck surprisingly well. Here is after trimming off some excess. I used 3M Rubber and Vinyl 80 adhesive, available at the hardware store (Same stuff I used for the leather on the door cards). I'm not sure how this will stand up over time, but if it comes up I can always gorilla glue it. Finished but not snapped in cuz I want to make sure what side it goes in tomorrow when I have light. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 For any of you who may still be following this topic Will thse, from a 510, fit my 620? http://community.ratsun.net/topic/28274-l-series-4-into-2-exhaust-manifolds/page__view__findpost__p__419246 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 that manifold will fit, cant be sure about the downpipe thats on it.. i think i have that manifold on my truck.. fits good and i made my own downpipe... Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 I had the tail lights off so I could get put the trailer hitch in today and decided to see what a front bumper would look like on the back. It is a pretty close match. I like how it touches on the edges and how there is a small gap between the tailgate and the bumper. I could easily see being able to mount an LED tail light kit. I would have to put a relief cut in the middle to get it to lay flat. I would also need to bend the ends inwards. The only problem I see is trying to match the up and down curve. Eh, It was just an idea. It could be made to work with some tweaking. Another project way down the road :) Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 good thinking almost looks like it was meant to be there Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 WOW! That Looks Good :lol: Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 I think it has potential, but that bumper is all beat up. That's why I thought I would use it as a test attempt. Its just hanging on the taillight mounts at the moment. When the hitch is mounted it would poke through this. I was actually thinking of just cutting out the middle similar to how the tail lights are then just use the stock chrome spacer I've seen around in the middle and mount these like the bumperets Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 whoa!! thats a pretty badass idear... i would like to see that go a little further.. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 whoa!! thats a pretty badass idear... i would like to see that go a little further.. LOL, in due time... lots on my place already. I have a new 510 manifold coming and I have some exhaust welding to do. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 nice! so you got that manifold you asked about? Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 yup, as soon as the paypal check clears he should ship it. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 cool deal... that should work good.. whats up with the current? is it just a stock single exit smogger manifold? Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 cool deal... that should work good.. whats up with the current? is it just a stock single exit smogger manifold? Stock Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Put the hitch on today. I will mount the license plate holder tomorrow. I went a bit overboard on the hardware, but they messed up and only charged me $0.87 for everything! Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 how is it with the gate down it looks great Quote Link to comment
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