DMs '76 620 pickup ...first project attempted

[deadmonkey]

Hello everybody, my name is Angelo. This is my 2nd post. I think this is gonna be a sweet little project. It is my first attempt at "restoring" a vehicle so I am probably going to have allot of questions. Looks like there are allot of knowledgeable people here so this should be fun.

 

Lost of pictures to come. I gotta get to work.

~DM

[]2eDeYe]

Welcome, can't wait to see some pic's :)

[banzai510(hainz)]

I like your Avatar

a M151 Jeep

[deadmonkey]

OK... so first project; Carb Rebuild!

There was a Webber (32/36 DGAV03B) on one stamp and (983) on another for the Carbs.

 

So... I drove this truck to the junk yard, 100 mile round trip on, mostly on the freeway before I did anything to the carb. I got a little over 10 mpg on this trip! Upon making it back into town, it would not idle and was nearly screaming at the lights. Tried to ease the clutch out with the breaks on, to idle it down some. Anyways, I got it home just fine, all sorts of goodies in the bed :)

 

So I take it to work the other day... and it dies in the parking lot. The only way to keep it running is to pump the gas ALLOT. No way I was getting it home the less then 4 miles :)

 

I pulled the carb in the parking lot and proceeded to go get a rebuild kit for it. First off, the carb wasn't even bolted down!! Secondly some douche bag had siliconed it down to the manifold!! All I did was unhook the fuel line and throttle cable! The entire thing just lifted off. I'm starting to think I'm lucky to even have made it home, let alone to work

 

Oh, but it gets better. When I pulled the carb a part... there was one of the bottom copper orifices laying in the bottom, the other finger tight and almost all the way out. The top 2 orifices where just sitting there, not even screwed in! Not only am I lucky to have made it home... I'm lucky the thing even ran!

 

So anyways, I rebuilt it the best I could with out any instructions. Not my first carb rebuild, but first one with out instructions. There are a few spare parts that came in the kit, but may be for different models, because I repaced everything that I took out.

 

Pics of my pretty! It isn't as shiny as I would have hoped, the Simple Green Degreaser left a bit of a white looking oxidation. Should be fine I think:

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[Bob3]

Secondly some douche bag had siliconed it down to the manifold!!

 

I love that quote :lol:

 

It looks like you are on the right track! I'll bet your MPG gets better! Keep up the good work.

[ratsar_nx]

I'm in the process of rebuilding a carb as well... I got a Holley 5200 (Weber 32/36 built by Holley under license). How much did the car rebuild kit cost and what came in it?

 

One of the jets was sitting on the bottom of the float bowl? :blink: That is indeed amazing it ran.

[deadmonkey]

I'm in the process of rebuilding a carb as well... I got a Holley 5200 (Weber 32/36 built by Holley under license). How much did the car rebuild kit cost and what came in it?

 

One of the jets was sitting on the bottom of the float bowl? :blink: That is indeed amazing it ran.

 

It came with a few extra parts... Hope that it covered a few different models :) But it came with a new fule filter, some O rings and copper metal washers, new floats, main jet assembly, a couple of those parts with rubber plungers on them, a few springs here and there, new gaskets... i'd have to look at it again to get a full list for you. Cost was $30, about the same for the manifold adapter.

 

:( back to work :(

[Farmer Joe]

oh dang!! another local datsun guy!!

 

well ive seen webers held onto a manifold with just the edges of washers from other nearby bolts, but never just by silcone!!

[deadmonkey]

ok, so the parts guy is clueless as to what I was talking about when asking him about the "tiny copper piece that links the bottom have to the top half". He sent me to http://www.redlineweber.com to look at the exploded view. And of course that doesn't show the part I am trying to explain to him that I think is missing.

 

SO, here is what I think is missing... is this normal? or do I need to get a new part to replace the one I think I'm missing??

 

Oh, and I saw that one jet was labeled "170" and the other "160" From knowing stuff about motorcycles, I'm guessing this is bad since they should all be the same size correct?

Edited November 15, 2008 by deadmonkey

[yello620]

You only need the one little copper piece that you pictured. The other hole does not get one, it goes to a dead hole on the carb base.

 

And your jet sizes generally wont match on a weber carb, The same size jets theory would apply when you have one carb for each cylinder.

Edited November 15, 2008 by yello620

[deadmonkey]

oooh, well that makes sense I guess. Now that I think about it, a 4 barrel carb is kinda the same way, just that the other two don't kick in until you need more power.... Just like a two barrel, only one is running until the second one kicks in for more power. Makes perfect sense now that I think about it!

 

SO, I dropped the rebuilt carb in. I just got back. Runs about the same but has allot more power. It doesn't idle right yet partly because the throttle linkage is just pinched between a scew and nut and doesn't have any looseness to it. I think I'm gonna get a proper linkage assembly from Shucks if they have one. I should be able to fine tune it tomorrow after work I think. Maybe I'll get some video of it so I can post it here :cool: I have a few more questions to ask too but need pictures to go along with them.

 

I had a question about the float; there wasn't any settings for the float, usually there is a jig, or a measurement from the face of the carb to the top of the float. Didn't see anything on webers site either. The float was dead on parallel to the edge of the carb with out changing anything, I'm guessing that is where it is supposed to be?

 

Quick question about transmissions; There is a '79 5 speed at the junk yard. No Idea what condition the transmission is in, but would that transmission fit in my truck? That would be sweet to have a 5 speed!

Edited November 15, 2008 by deadmonkey

[deadmonkey]

Bam! new muffler today!

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I also put the hood on today. It looks great... only a few dings but nothing major. I was a bit disappointed though, just to the right of the latch I noticed that the support frame of the hood is broken. It needs to be welded. Guess I better get a welder huh.

[datzenmike]

YES! That '79 5spd will fit 620 trucks back as far as '74. Use your speedo cog as the '79 used a different rear gear ratio and your speedometer will be out slightly. It has an extra wide ratio gear set compared to the two previous years but basically the same over drive.

Edited November 16, 2008 by datzenmike

[deadmonkey]

THANKS! I'll have to see if the junk yard will pull it for me. They have a Seat that is in great condition, just needs to be re-upholstered $20. I'm not sure I want to put a bench seat back in it though... I was thinking about doing bucket seats. Would make it seem bigger in the cab I think and give better access to the room behind the seats AND let me put in a center console if I wanted... Thoughts?

 

Also, I was having a heck of a time finding a site for universal throttle/accelerator cables, Great prices:

http://www.helmarparts.com/Accelerator_Cables_s/65.htm

[deadmonkey]

OK, so I replaced some of the parts I found at the junk yard after cleaning them up, stuff like knobs, visor, arm rests, etc.

 

Well I pulled the plastic shroud that houses the hazards and ignition to replace the hazards switch.

 

Well... the Thing doesn't start now

Wires everywhere! who ever had this has cut and spliced allot. My question is on what wireing harness will fit what years of trucks. Mine is '76 of course, I pulled one from a '77, or '78, not sure I'd have to check again on my salvage yard list

 

Just wondering if that harness should work with my truck? Right now the fuel pump is running, but starter is not ingaging. The electrical on this truck has been jerry rigged allot... I will clarify later, must get back to work.

[deadmonkey]

Oh... figured out why it wouldn't start... stupid Starter solenoid wire fell off! bah... I so need a new wiring harness.

 

So this weekend I installed some odds and ends I got at the junk yard:

Note the PERFECT glove box cardboard!! Besides being dusty, this thing is in excellent condition. I'm going to hold off installing it since I may be pulling the dash soon.

 

Here is a picture of the new hood vs old one:

Man! those mirrors have to go! I'm thinking something more sleek, more like the size of a motorcycle mirror! Anybody have any good sites for mirrors?

[DatDoug]

Bucket seats will give u more room behind the seat 4 speakers:D but they will cramp u up against the steering wheel more:mad:

[deadmonkey]

YES! That '79 5spd will fit 620 trucks back as far as '74. Use your speedo cog as the '79 used a different rear gear ratio and your speedometer will be out slightly. It has an extra wide ratio gear set compared to the two previous years but basically the same over drive.

Just wondering if the Trany is going to be the same length as the 4 speed? Because if it isn't the same size then I would have to alter the driveling size... and I don't have the equipment to do that.

[moparvwfreak]

yeah it is the same length. no worries. it'll bolt in wihtout modification.

[deadmonkey]

yeah it is the same length. no worries. it'll bolt in wihtout modification.

nice! They wanna charge me $150 to pull the transmission. They have to do it though, something about liability and working under cars propped up on rims :) I have no Idea what shape it is in so it is a complete gamble really.

 

I really am having issues with the electrical now though and REALLY need a new wiring harness.

- One of the ignition leads is loose and is jerry rigged so it doesn't touch the others with heat shrink and zip ties

- The right blinker light faintly pulses as I'm driving down the road as if it is barely touching some other wire

- The fuel pump is rigged to turn on when the key is in any position other then off

- The "high beams" are wired to a toggle switch where the windshield wiper knob should be!

- The lights are only one if the engine is running (which to me indicates they are running of the Alternator. That and when you turn the truck off with the lights on, they slowly go out.

- Wires are hanging down that go to I don't know where

- The ignition has one custom wire going from the ignition directly to the battery

- They auto choke looks like it also has a custom wire spliced into some other random wire under the dash and ran through the firewall

- I pulled out some random toggle switch wired to ground and something else, wires bare and hanging down!

 

The list goes on and on. I think the best thing to do is just get new wiring harnesses! I am having a heck of a time finding where to get them though.

 

~DM

[Farmer Joe]

okay so where are you getting 620 parts in idaho? lol

 

there are NO 620s in the yards over here in canyon county.

[bonvo]

get a painless harness from summit or the like

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I remember my nasty experience with limping my 620 home on a crusty carb. Sounds like yours went a little better though. Seems like you're having fun. I love these rigs, pretty basic and fun to work on. We look forward to seeing and hearing more on your progress. Good call on that hood replacement too btw, between that and your carb story, I cant help but picture the kinda guy that owned it before you :eek: Tell that guy to put down the crank pipe, and go take a nap!

[deadmonkey]

Soo I noticed... by sound/ear that the truck wasn't turning over as strong as it used to a week ago. I looked under the hood, and started checking wires. Sure enough there was a big thick, important looking wire. Upon inspection, I found it came from the alternator... THE MAIN CHARGE LINE!! It has just been sitting there I don't know how long. The manual says it is supposed to goto the battery (which it wasn't) and the regulator (which I don't think it was). From what I can see it is spliced into a box with two relays. Lasted I check, relays don't regulate voltage. So... I'm wondering if I even have a regulator!

 

I'll be checking tomorrow. For now though Volt meter says 13.6 volts to battery at idle... Should be more at road speed, so I think I'm good there. More and more I'm thinking a universal harness is the way to go here. That way I know there are fresh wiring everywhere. I just need to count how many circuits I need so I can order me a new harness.

 

Back to the Carbs though... Engine is purring like a kitten! I'm little disturbed that the idle screw doesn't even touch the linkage when screwed in all the way. I think some slight bending is in order.

 

Time for bed... Gonna install dash pad, front valance and side running lights/reflectors :)

[Llittle_Llama]

someone correct me if im wrong, but the alt. has an internal regulator.