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#41 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 09 June 2010 - 01:33 PM

KA24E Parts need for the power steering delete. Alternator brackets (upper and lower) and thermostat housing.

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620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

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Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#42 amie704

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 07:39 AM

If you are reading this thread, either you have a twin cam KA24DE, or you want to swap one in.
Here are the basics KA24DE into a 510 or 610.
1. Stock 510 driveshaft will work. You need to cut off the metal collar around the splined end, so that it slips into the KA transmission all the way. You will also need to have it shortened by a driveshaft shop. Wait until your install is complete and take some measurements VERY CAREFULLY!. This will be one of the last things you do.

2. Mounting:
Your front crossmember needs to be reversed in the middle to clear the oil pan. Several ways to do this. make a crude jig, cut out the center section, reverse, weld back together. Or you can buy one from Maddat, Datsport, TSR, or whatever.
You can in theory use the stock 510 fron crossmember engine mounts, but you will need a spacer in order to meet up with the KA mounts. I would advice removing the stock engine mounts from the crossmember and building new ones that allow you to really dial in the postition of the motor in the engine bay. If you try to use the stock mounts, you dont have much freedom. I also prefer to use the 240sx engine isolators, they just work better than the Datsun rubber bricks. You can also re-use the stock transmission isolator, although you will most likely want to build your own transmission crossmember, as you can get way more exhaust clearance if you do.

3. Swaybar, Most likely your stock front swaybar will hit the new engine. Shop around for a custom front swaybar. I would start by contacting DGR in california.

4. Steering link. You may also have interference with the center steering link hitting the transmission or transmission braces on the engine. IF this is an issue, contact MadDat in Australia for a reversed link.

5. Fuel. You can either graft-in an intank fuel pump into your stock 510 tank, or you can run an external pump (such as an inline Walbro 255LPH). I prefer the external method, since welding on a fuel tank can result in warping and leaking (unless you are really good with a TIG).
Your feed and return lines need to be at least 5/16" size tubing. If your return line is too small, the fuel pressure regulator wont be able to bleed fuel off fast enough to keep the pressure down where it should be. The pump will be controlled by a relay, which is controlled by the ECU. Make sure the pressure (feed) line from the pump goes directly to the fuel rail. The return line (back to the tank) comes from the fuel pressure regulator.

6. ECU - see post on previous page about what you DO NOT need to run the engine. Feel free to remove all the emissions and junk from the engine and the intake manifold (will require an EGR block-off plate). Mount the ECU somewher dry and wire up only the stuff needed. I am not going to go into detail on how to wire everything. The best thing to do is have a factory service manual and someone that knows what they are doing.

7. Oxygen sensor. You should have the O2 sensor (only primary sensor, the one before the CAT). Most of the time, its location in the factory intake manifold willnot work on a Datsun, because it will hit the steering box. Simply install it in the hole that the EGR tube was going into on the #4 runner.

8. Exhaust - Run a 2.5" exhaust. This will require enlarging the rear crossmember hole.

9. Use the stock KA24DE clutch and slave cylinder. You can use the stock 510 clutch master cylinder. Just need a hose to connect the slave to the car's hard line.

10. I have never seen hood clearance an issue with a KA, if it is, you have done something wrong or weird.

11. Radiator: I use the VW rabbit style radiator (with the temp switch in the end tank). It works for me, but if you want more thermal capacity you can pick whatever radiator fits. Make sure you have a good (high-CFM) electric fan, preferrably a puller. remove the crank-driven fan from the engine.

12. Alternator belt - see post on previous page and link to KA-T forum for a good solution.

13. Shifter hole - you will need to enlarge the shifter hole because the stick pops through farther back. You may also need to hammer the inside of the tunnel to add clearance for the transmission back by the shifter.

14. Gas pedal - I usually make a custom gas pedal that is hybrid between the stock 510 pedal and a 240sx pedal. Use the 240sx throttle cable.

15. Air intake - The S14 MAF sensor is 2-3/4, and so is the throttle body. Problem is, it is hard to find aluminum mandrel bends in 2.75". I usually find them through Woolf Aircraft and build a custom aluminum intake system, but people who have done this in the past have done all sorts of crazy stuff to make an intake system. Just make sure you plumb in the idle intake tube. Oh, and dont use PVC pipe, I know it might work, but it is just ghetto.

16. If you are using an S13 KA24DE, then you have the lovely swirl valves in the intake runners. Get rid of them, it was an effort to improve low-RPM response and improve emissions. The S14(same engine) doesnt have them. Remove the butterflies, but dont remove the shaft. Or if you dont want to take apart your intake manifold, then just disconnect the vacuum can that opens them, and make a bracket to keep them open all the time. Remove all the rest of the related components.

Of course there is a lot of little stuff I am not mentioning, but this is a general outline of what to expect. There are a hundred ways to do the swap, this just talks about my experiences.


Now that's a helpful post!!! :)
I hope the UPS guy comes before my wife gets off!:mellow:

#43 compression

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 08:40 AM

News flash:
It looks like I have come across a California emissions 1995 KA24DE. There are a few differences with the non-cali kA.
-The water temp sensor is purple and not red.
-It has an electric air pump (or something weird like that) inside the curl of the intake manifold)
-It has a 4 wire oxygen sensor (standard is one wire)
-It has a throttle body with two plugs on it.
-The ECU has a sticker on it that says CA
-Knock sensor on CA engine does not plug into harness of a non-CA engine

Just some weird things to note. Probably not helpful for anyone...

Aaron S.
Portland, OR
 


#44 Guest_DatsuNoob_*

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 09:42 PM

I've seen this before, but didnt wanna lose it again.
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Nissan_240SX_Performance_Modification/KA24DE_and_KA24E/ITB's

*edit* ATTN MOD- feel free to remove this post, Naz already linked this. OOPS :D

#45 dennis

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Posted 22 July 2010 - 04:52 PM

I am buying all my misc. parts for this swap right now.

One thing, I thought you can use 620 motor mounts with the 510 reversed crossmember and have no issues?

#46 Robertwb70

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 11:43 PM

16. If you are using an S13 KA24DE, then you have the lovely swirl valves in the intake runners. Get rid of them, it was an effort to improve low-RPM response and improve emissions. The S14(same engine) doesnt have them. Remove the butterflies, but dont remove the shaft. Or if you dont want to take apart your intake manifold, then just disconnect the vacuum can that opens them, and make a bracket to keep them open all the time. Remove all the rest of the related components.


The S14 doesn't have the valves but it does have smaller cams to accomplish the same thing (improved low end torque and drivability)

The big selling point of the KA motors was that they had something like 85% of peak torque available from 2,500 RPMs on up, which was pretty good back then with a 4 cylinder.

I think of them like EGR, they only function at part throttle and they provide more benefits (slight) than removing them (none) would so I keep mine intact.

#47 Darkslide

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Posted 04 November 2010 - 10:55 AM

So who all knows what it takes to swap a KA24DE into an '82 720KC. I know a couple have done it but all I find is the 510 swap stuff. I happen to have a couple KA's laying around out of my S13.

#48 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 04 November 2010 - 11:57 AM

Shouldn't be any different than putting one into a 620. You should already have the correct transmission.

How I did it

http://community.rat...kingcab-deluxe/

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**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#49 Rustina 510

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 12:13 AM

This thread has become my main read lately, hoping to pick up a nice ka24de.

Just one question that I have searched for an havnt found a yeah or neah, will a 280z 5 speed bolt right up to a Ka motor? I'm asking because the Ka I'm looking at does not have a tranny and I have a good condition z 5 speed, hoping to avoid buying another tranny if I don't have to

#50 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 08:18 AM

Nope, you will need the later model bellhousing to make the 280z transmission work with the KA.

I got my 5-speed for my KA from a NAPZ 720 for $75 at the pull-a-part.

Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

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Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#51 edgar

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 08:33 AM

hey guys, and gals... im new to this forum and to the datsun world.
i got a freshly rebuilt ka24de from a 91 240sx with 5 spd tranny. i rebuilt the engine myself after my bro seized it up during and overheat.. anyway, i also just got my hands on a 79 210 wagon and wanna swap the ka into it.. i cant really find anything for this particular swap. mostly 510 stuff. the wagons an auto if that helps, but my questions are: does it drop right in? if so, what other clearance issues do i have to worry about? and how do i wire it up? again, have looked at a bunch of posts and cant find anything specific. if someone can help me out with a link or any helpful info on this swap, i'd greatly appreciate it. thanks in advance.

#52 Guam671

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 07:11 AM

Has anyone done a ka24de swap in a '86 720 2wd?

#53 NissanFam

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Posted 17 October 2013 - 04:35 PM

^^ I'm about to. lol. pulling the z24 out this weekend. I've got a 2wd '86 720 as well but the motor was "rebuilt" before purchase and I found out after purchase that it burns 3 qts of oil in 2 weeks and now doesn't start on its own. Sooooooooooooooooooooo I've got a spare ka laying in the garage that will be seeing a new home very soon. Doing some research myself before diving in. Mainly the electrical is throwing me off. I want that Can/Am box that Icehouse sells... just not entirely sure on how it works. Yet I don't want to tackle the 34 page thread lol. Looks like I've got some light reading ahead of me.



#54 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 17 October 2013 - 06:00 PM

Has anyone done a ka24de swap in a '86 720 2wd?

 

 

Supposedly you can mix and match the Z2X mounts and the KA mounts and get it to fit. 

 

 

^^ I'm about to. lol. pulling the z24 out this weekend. I've got a 2wd '86 720 as well but the motor was "rebuilt" before purchase and I found out after purchase that it burns 3 qts of oil in 2 weeks and now doesn't start on its own. Sooooooooooooooooooooo I've got a spare ka laying in the garage that will be seeing a new home very soon. Doing some research myself before diving in. Mainly the electrical is throwing me off. I want that Can/Am box that Icehouse sells... just not entirely sure on how it works. Yet I don't want to tackle the 34 page thread lol. Looks like I've got some light reading ahead of me.

 

 

First post in this thread should have all the information you need to wire it up. 

 

http://community.rat...-into-anything/


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

gJv38AY.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#55 Guam671

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 08:40 PM

Yeah, I've actually seen it done in person now. It was at a meet here in Vegas. I don't know how he did it because I never got to talk to him but it was in there. It sat a little high probably because of oil pan clearance. But I have found a thread where someone swapped in a KA24DE already. 😃

Now that I think of it I'm gonna wait on doing this swap. For me it's when Patience and Preparation meets Opportunity.

#56 bryant2482

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 07:34 PM

would it be good to slice out some of the oil pan?



#57 BlackBird620

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 10:16 PM

would it be good to slice out some of the oil pan?


As long as you know someone you trust to weld it back together to not leak and hold under pressure

#58 Eagle_Adam

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 02:31 PM

wow.... a pinned thread about DE's ive missed....... 


Chuck it in the Fuck it bucket, cus I'm done

#59 ggzilla

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 03:58 PM

SR20DE is aresome! DEs forever.
Here today gone tomorrow

#60 Nickjames209

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 03:04 PM

if you want to take out the swirl control valve (butterfly valves in intake man.) use the lower S13 intake man and upper S14 intake man. the S14 DID NOT have the valves. and also if you have S14 swap out both cams from the S13, the S13 have larger cams.