Posted 24 February 2010 - 09:40 AM
If you are reading this thread, either you have a twin cam KA24DE, or you want to swap one in.
Here are the basics KA24DE into a 510 or 610.
1. Stock 510 driveshaft will work. You need to cut off the metal collar around the splined end, so that it slips into the KA transmission all the way. You will also need to have it shortened by a driveshaft shop. Wait until your install is complete and take some measurements VERY CAREFULLY!. This will be one of the last things you do.
Your front crossmember needs to be reversed in the middle to clear the oil pan. Several ways to do this. make a crude jig, cut out the center section, reverse, weld back together. Or you can buy one from Maddat, Datsport, TSR, or whatever.
You can in theory use the stock 510 fron crossmember engine mounts, but you will need a spacer in order to meet up with the KA mounts. I would advice removing the stock engine mounts from the crossmember and building new ones that allow you to really dial in the postition of the motor in the engine bay. If you try to use the stock mounts, you dont have much freedom. I also prefer to use the 240sx engine isolators, they just work better than the Datsun rubber bricks. You can also re-use the stock transmission isolator, although you will most likely want to build your own transmission crossmember, as you can get way more exhaust clearance if you do.
3. Swaybar, Most likely your stock front swaybar will hit the new engine. Shop around for a custom front swaybar. I would start by contacting DGR in california.
4. Steering link. You may also have interference with the center steering link hitting the transmission or transmission braces on the engine. IF this is an issue, contact MadDat in Australia for a reversed link.
5. Fuel. You can either graft-in an intank fuel pump into your stock 510 tank, or you can run an external pump (such as an inline Walbro 255LPH). I prefer the external method, since welding on a fuel tank can result in warping and leaking (unless you are really good with a TIG).
Your feed and return lines need to be at least 5/16" size tubing. If your return line is too small, the fuel pressure regulator wont be able to bleed fuel off fast enough to keep the pressure down where it should be. The pump will be controlled by a relay, which is controlled by the ECU. Make sure the pressure (feed) line from the pump goes directly to the fuel rail. The return line (back to the tank) comes from the fuel pressure regulator.
6. ECU - see post on previous page about what you DO NOT need to run the engine. Feel free to remove all the emissions and junk from the engine and the intake manifold (will require an EGR block-off plate). Mount the ECU somewher dry and wire up only the stuff needed. I am not going to go into detail on how to wire everything. The best thing to do is have a factory service manual and someone that knows what they are doing.
7. Oxygen sensor. You should have the O2 sensor (only primary sensor, the one before the CAT). Most of the time, its location in the factory intake manifold willnot work on a Datsun, because it will hit the steering box. Simply install it in the hole that the EGR tube was going into on the #4 runner.
8. Exhaust - Run a 2.5" exhaust. This will require enlarging the rear crossmember hole.
9. Use the stock KA24DE clutch and slave cylinder. You can use the stock 510 clutch master cylinder. Just need a hose to connect the slave to the car's hard line.
10. I have never seen hood clearance an issue with a KA, if it is, you have done something wrong or weird.
11. Radiator: I use the VW rabbit style radiator (with the temp switch in the end tank). It works for me, but if you want more thermal capacity you can pick whatever radiator fits. Make sure you have a good (high-CFM) electric fan, preferrably a puller. remove the crank-driven fan from the engine.
12. Alternator belt - see post on previous page and link to KA-T forum for a good solution.
13. Shifter hole - you will need to enlarge the shifter hole because the stick pops through farther back. You may also need to hammer the inside of the tunnel to add clearance for the transmission back by the shifter.
14. Gas pedal - I usually make a custom gas pedal that is hybrid between the stock 510 pedal and a 240sx pedal. Use the 240sx throttle cable.
15. Air intake - The S14 MAF sensor is 2-3/4, and so is the throttle body. Problem is, it is hard to find aluminum mandrel bends in 2.75". I usually find them through Woolf Aircraft and build a custom aluminum intake system, but people who have done this in the past have done all sorts of crazy stuff to make an intake system. Just make sure you plumb in the idle intake tube. Oh, and dont use PVC pipe, I know it might work, but it is just ghetto.
16. If you are using an S13 KA24DE, then you have the lovely swirl valves in the intake runners. Get rid of them, it was an effort to improve low-RPM response and improve emissions. The S14(same engine) doesnt have them. Remove the butterflies, but dont remove the shaft. Or if you dont want to take apart your intake manifold, then just disconnect the vacuum can that opens them, and make a bracket to keep them open all the time. Remove all the rest of the related components.
Of course there is a lot of little stuff I am not mentioning, but this is a general outline of what to expect. There are a hundred ways to do the swap, this just talks about my experiences.