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changing lowering blocks


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#1 oukippy

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 01:43 PM

Hi,

 

I'm planning to replace the lowering block on my future 620 because it's too low for French speed bumps.

 

Could someone tell me what might be the size of the blocks used by the previous owner, based on the following picture ?

 

https://framapic.org...jpg&gid=1&pid=1

 

Do I need to buy a complete kit or these will be enough ?

https://www.amazon.c...1/ref=sr_1_cc_7

 

Thank you!



#2 G-Duax

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 02:08 PM

They look like 3" (75mm) to me but they are easy to measure..

Those U-bolts look to be rust free, so you probably can reuse them, but (I would cut them shorter, so they don't get caught on something.


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#3 Draker

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 06:49 PM

I would guess 3" as well.
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#4 hobospyder

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 07:37 PM

i would guess 3 inches, and you may want to look into getting another leaf spring pack as well. that one looks ridiculously flat. also what g-duax said, keep the u bolts but cut them down


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#5 FrankRizzo

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 08:26 PM

I had 3" blocks and swapped them out for 2".

 

Something like this should work:

https://www.amazon.c...05SKCX46YQJ5G2D


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#6 Charlie69

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 08:38 PM

Remember to adjust your brakes before installing the new blocks.



#7 distributorguy

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 04:29 AM

While swapping blocks a couple times at Bonneville, we realized how horrible the nuts are that come with the lowering kits.  Buy some grade 8 nuts to use when you install them.  They tend to strip out when you install them the second/third time.  



#8 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 05:47 AM

3 inch is good. Whats wrong with french roads?

I had a lowered 78 Capri 3 in germany and was fine


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#9 2wheel-lee

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 01:04 PM

i would guess 3 inches, and you may want to look into getting another leaf spring pack as well. that one looks ridiculously flat. also what g-duax said, keep the u bolts but cut them down

 

 

Those are really flat. I can't really see what's going on there, but with that clamp on the front of the springs, I wonder if someone flipped a leaf in there. 



#10 Charlie69

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 03:34 PM

The springs do look flat.



#11 oukippy

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Posted 11 June 2018 - 12:27 PM

I agree that springs are very flat. Maybe that's why the truck seems that much lowered. I will probably drive it a little bit like this but I have many speed bumpers in my town and I'm afraid to touch them with the exhaust pipe, which seems very low to me, as you can see here:

 

https://framapic.org...Z5zlosVDblU.jpg

 

And I agree with 2wheel-lee that a leaf was probably flipped. Look at the following picture, it looks like a S for me :

 

https://framapic.org...OU1XUAKpbG4.jpg

 

**********************************************************************************

Out of subject but I tried to post directly the pictures but I thought they were too big for the forum. Any way to force them in a specific size or do I have to modify them before posting?



#12 hobospyder

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Posted 11 June 2018 - 02:59 PM

top spring is probably flipped. and honestly you'd be surprised the abuse an exhaust pipe will take, mine is pretty beat up on the longbed i've been driving, previous owner had it lower than i do


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#13 2wheel-lee

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Posted 11 June 2018 - 03:13 PM

And I agree with 2wheel-lee that a leaf was probably flipped. Look at the following picture, it looks like a S for me :

 

https://framapic.org...OU1XUAKpbG4.jpg

 

**********************************************************************************

Out of subject but I tried to post directly the pictures but I thought they were too big for the forum. Any way to force them in a specific size or do I have to modify them before posting?

 

That little curve close to the shackle right next to the middle spring is normal. It looks like they may have ground off the stock spring and used those clamps on the springs instead (you can see the rust marks left behind where the stock clamps were). The stock clamps allow the springs to slide and move a bit when they compress. That U-bolt clamp may not. I'd suggest taking those clamps off. Though the middle leaf may move slightly sideways, which is what the stock clamps prevent, if the axle U-bolts are tight, they shouldn't move much. 



#14 datzenmike

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Posted 13 June 2018 - 10:20 AM

Spring isn't flipped or the eyelet would look different. This is what they look like without the three missing shorter leaves. The single thick over load spring probably doesn't flex at all and it's probably a stiff ride as is. Lowering blocks look more like 4" and way too tall. Measure them, if 4" those Amazon blocks are cheap so get 2". Start with the 2" I think that should make the difference. When you get it sorted CUT those bolts.

 

It probably has a lot of drive shaft 'moan' because the angles are bad from lowering that much. Going back up 2" might get rid of most of this. 


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#15 2wheel-lee

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Posted 14 June 2018 - 07:44 AM

Spring isn't flipped or the eyelet would look different. This is what they look like without the three missing shorter leaves. 

 

I remember that some people used to flip the middle leaf. They'd grind off the leaf clamp, then use U-bolts, similar to what was done here. Yes, it's a tedious job (I tried it once) But I don't think that's the case here. 



#16 oukippy

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Posted Today, 06:10 AM

How many springs for a stock 620? Could you show me a stock (or aftermarket) set ?

I want it lowered a little bit but I still want to be able to use the bed for what it is made for : moving things.



#17 distributorguy

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Posted Today, 10:32 AM

Personally, I don't think it matters if leaf springs flex until they go flat, or if they start flat and go negative.  There are advantages for both scenarios.  You likely have a better ride starting with flat springs, if you'd buy some new gas charged shocks.  I'd bet yours are as bad as the bushings look.  

I think stock springs were 6 leaf, plus one really thick short one.  If I recall, they have about a 7" arc to them when uncompressed.  

 

Driveshaft angle can be compensated for by bolting in a riser at the center driveshaft mount.  It'll make your U-joints last longer too.