rosso Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 My new '72 wagon project car has brake drums that are really rusted on the hubs from sitting for years) - does anyone have a drum puller that I could borrow to get these off? Could meet in Seattle or anywhere between Port Angeles, Washington (my home) and Portland, Oregon (for the Canby Datsun show June 9th.) I have already soaked them in WD-40, hit them with hammer, tried heat with torch, and the 8mm holes made for that purpose. No luck with any of them. Drums and axle turn freely so shoes not binding on drum. Thanks and Cheers to all, Michael aka rosso since my first 510 was red. 1 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 You tried screwing grade 8 bolts into those holes to push drum away from axle and carefully hitting drum with hammer?? I assume you took lug nuts off?? 5 Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Yep. You should just need to thread bolts into the two holes. The pads may still be caught in a bit of a lip but the bolts will pull them right off the keepers! --carter 1 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Yes, I already tried using the 8mm but both the holes are severely rusted and not enough threads left to get any bite. The adjuster screw is also rusted solid and I am still working on it - alternating heat and WD-40 to try and free it. The drum does not budge at all - not even a teenie wobble so I don't think it is caught on the shoes. Yes, the lug nuts are backed off and only on the studs so I don't accidentally hit and ruin the threads on them with the bfh. Any other ideas? This car has been sitting for maybe 6 years. Thanks for the ideas anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Heat the drum. As it expands the center and lug nut holes become larger. Whack with hammer @ 12, 6, 3, 9, and I mean WHACK it. 4 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Heat the drum. As it expands the center and lug nut holes become larger. Whack with hammer @ 12, 6, 3, 9, and I mean WHACK it. That's how I got my 30 years of sitting drums off of mine, sprayed wd40 too. 1 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted May 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Heat the drum. As it expands the center and lug nut holes become larger. Whack with hammer @ 12, 6, 3, 9, and I mean WHACK it. Thanks for the info - I have already heated the drum and then hit it with a sledge hammer in between the studs. Are you suggesting I hit it on the outside edge of the drum? I can only hit it from the front since there is the backing plate correct? Or am I sacrificing the backing plate and whacking it from the inside? Are you going to Canby in 2 weeks? I plan to drive down for the day on Saturday. Cheers, Michael 2 Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 heat and smack it like mike said 12/3/6/9 oclock position hit the front as to cause it to come off at an angle also try hitting the center hub it sounds like it is bound up on the edge of the hub itself eventually it will break free or you will break the drum off in pieces hit the outer face and the outside edge should break free eventually 2 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Thanks for the info - I have already heated the drum and then hit it with a sledge hammer in between the studs. Are you suggesting I hit it on the outside edge of the drum? I can only hit it from the front since there is the backing plate correct? Or am I sacrificing the backing plate and whacking it from the inside? Are you going to Canby in 2 weeks? I plan to drive down for the day on Saturday. Cheers, Michael Hit it right in the center.There is no 510 brake drum puller. Get a friend to PRY the drum while you are beating on it. Lots of PB Blaster or WD 40 around the center, 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 You could go to HF and get their biggest 2jaw/3jaw puller set and TRY to get it to fit. I had to severely modify one to make it fit the 521. OTC brand makes a brake drum puller set. Not cheap. I never bought it because I can normally get any drum loose with a 32oz deadblow ball print hammer. 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Could always weld nut's to the drum over the holes. Then you'd have more threads. Or cut it off. 4 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Don't hit the center, that's the axle and you will only expand it and jam the drum on harder, not to mention it probably isn't good for the wheel bearings. I like the idea of spot welding nuts on. Easy enough to grind this away later. I put anti-seize on last time they were off and still had to use the bolts. The trick is to snug them and pound on the top or sides of the drum not on the outer face with the lugs. This will only strip the threads. Wrist tighten the bolts and hit the top and you'll feel the wrench turn slightly with each hit. Alternate from bolt to bolt so it comes out evenly. 3 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 I used PB blaster and let it soak. Most of it is the center section that rusted on there. My 521 I pretty much busted the drum to get it off and had to buy new ones and I used anti seize when I put the new drums on. Just sell me that wagon. Ill have to for another 20yrs and keep it runnng. 2 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted May 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 I used PB blaster and let it soak. Most of it is the center section that rusted on there. My 521 I pretty much busted the drum to get it off and had to buy new ones and I used anti seize when I put the new drums on. Just sell me that wagon. Ill have to for another 20yrs and keep it runnng. Sorry, can't sell it - just got it as a long term project car. I have some of the parts already for a VG33 engine swap. Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 It looks like someone has been beating on the hub/axle already. DO NOT hit it there. See the black line near the top? HIT it at the top of the line on the edge of the drum with a BFH, turn the drum 180 degrees and HIT it again. This will deform the drum slightly and cause it to pop off of the hub. Just keep turning and hitting. It will eventually come off. EDIT: like this, but harder.. 1 Quote Link to comment
flyerdan Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 If you have compressed air, get an air hammer (HF has them for around a tenner) grind a chisel flat so it won't gouge the drum and go around it with short bursts. If there are any threads left in the 8x1.25 holes, put a bit of strain on it, and take up the slack as the air hammer loosens it. They are remarkable at taking stuck things apart without inflicting the damage that whaling with a bfh can incur. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted May 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 Success! Once I had the confidence to hit it really HARD it only took a dozen hits. Thanks to all for the info about how hard and where I could hit it. Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 Wow, that's scary. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 Ha ha I've done that, but not intentionally or all the way off. But I sure was surprised it flew out to the ends of the studs. The drum probably expands. Quote Link to comment
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