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Anyone have a 510 rear brake drum puller? Seattle/NW area?


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#1 rosso

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 01:36 PM

My new '72 wagon project car has brake drums that are really rusted on the hubs from sitting for years) - does anyone have a drum puller that I could borrow to get these off?

 

Could meet in Seattle or anywhere between Port Angeles, Washington (my home) and Portland, Oregon (for the Canby Datsun show June 9th.)

 

I have already soaked them in WD-40, hit them with hammer, tried heat with torch, and the 8mm holes made for that purpose. No luck with any of them.

 

Drums and axle turn freely so shoes not binding on drum.

 

Thanks and Cheers to all,

Michael

 

aka rosso since my first 510 was red.

 

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#2 bananahamuck

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 02:09 PM

You tried screwing grade 8 bolts into those holes to push drum away from axle and carefully hitting drum with hammer??  

 

I assume you took lug nuts off?? 



 

I'm guessing that they are not JDM, but rather TDM


 

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#3 carterb

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 02:29 PM

Yep.  You should just need to thread bolts into the two holes.

The pads may still be caught in a bit of a lip but the bolts will pull them right off the keepers!

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#4 rosso

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 03:51 PM

Yes, I already tried using the 8mm but both the holes are severely rusted and not enough threads left to get any bite.

 

The adjuster screw is also rusted solid and I am still working on it - alternating heat and WD-40 to try and free it. The drum does not budge at all - not even a teenie wobble so I don't think it is caught on the shoes.

 

Yes, the lug nuts are backed off and only on the studs so I don't accidentally hit and ruin the threads on them with the bfh.

 

Any other ideas? This car has been sitting for maybe 6 years.

 

Thanks for the ideas anyway.



#5 datzenmike

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 04:03 PM

Heat the drum. As it expands the center and lug nut holes become larger. Whack with hammer @ 12, 6, 3, 9, and I mean WHACK it.


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#6 KoHeartsGPA

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 04:41 PM

Heat the drum. As it expands the center and lug nut holes become larger. Whack with hammer @ 12, 6, 3, 9, and I mean WHACK it.


That's how I got my 30 years of sitting drums off of mine, sprayed wd40 too.

#7 rosso

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 04:58 PM

Heat the drum. As it expands the center and lug nut holes become larger. Whack with hammer @ 12, 6, 3, 9, and I mean WHACK it.

 

Thanks for the info - I have already heated the drum and then hit it with a sledge hammer in between the studs. Are you suggesting I hit it on the outside edge of the drum?

 

I can only hit it from the front since there is the backing plate correct? Or am I sacrificing the backing plate and whacking it from the inside?

 

Are you going to Canby in 2 weeks?

 

I plan to drive down for the day on Saturday.

 

Cheers,

Michael



#8 Ranman72

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 05:04 PM

heat and smack it like mike said 12/3/6/9 oclock position hit the front as to cause it to come off at an angle 

also try hitting the center hub 

it sounds like it is bound up on the edge of the hub itself 

eventually it will break free or you will break the drum off in pieces

hit the outer face and the outside edge should break free eventually



#9 Doctor510

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 05:13 PM

Thanks for the info - I have already heated the drum and then hit it with a sledge hammer in between the studs. Are you suggesting I hit it on the outside edge of the drum?

 

I can only hit it from the front since there is the backing plate correct? Or am I sacrificing the backing plate and whacking it from the inside?

 

Are you going to Canby in 2 weeks?

 

I plan to drive down for the day on Saturday.

 

Cheers,

Michael

Hit it right in the center.There is no 510 brake drum puller.  Get a friend to PRY the drum while you are beating on it.  Lots of PB Blaster or WD 40 around the center,



#10 flatcat19

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 05:18 PM

You could go to HF and get their biggest 2jaw/3jaw puller set and TRY to get it to fit.

I had to severely modify one to make it fit the 521.


OTC brand makes a brake drum puller set. Not cheap. I never bought it because I can normally get any drum loose with a 32oz deadblow ball print hammer.

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#11 Draker

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 06:09 PM

Could always weld nut's to the drum over the holes. Then you'd have more threads.

Or cut it off.
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#12 datzenmike

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 06:38 PM

Don't hit the center, that's the axle and you will only expand it and jam the drum on harder, not to mention it probably isn't good for the wheel bearings.

 

I like the idea of spot welding nuts on. Easy enough to grind this away later. I put anti-seize on last time they were off and still had to use the bolts. The trick is to snug them and pound on the top or sides of the drum not on the outer face with the lugs. This will only strip the threads. Wrist tighten the bolts and hit the top and you'll feel the wrench turn slightly with each hit. Alternate from bolt to bolt so it comes out evenly.


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#13 racerx

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 08:31 PM

Heat it up

#14 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 29 May 2018 - 09:36 AM

I used PB blaster and let it soak. Most of it is the center section that rusted on there.

 

My 521 I pretty much busted the drum to get it off and had to buy new ones and I used anti seize when I put the new drums on.

 

Just sell me that wagon. Ill have to for another 20yrs and keep it runnng.


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#15 rosso

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Posted 29 May 2018 - 10:51 PM

I used PB blaster and let it soak. Most of it is the center section that rusted on there.

 

My 521 I pretty much busted the drum to get it off and had to buy new ones and I used anti seize when I put the new drums on.

 

Just sell me that wagon. Ill have to for another 20yrs and keep it runnng.

Sorry, can't sell it - just got it as a long term project car. I have some of the parts already for a VG33 engine swap.



#16 datsuntech

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Posted 29 May 2018 - 11:39 PM

It looks like someone has been beating on the hub/axle already. DO NOT hit it there. 

See the black line near the top? HIT it at the top of the line on the edge of the drum with a BFH, turn the drum 180 degrees and HIT it again.  This will deform the drum slightly and cause it to pop off of the hub. Just keep turning and hitting. It will eventually come off.

 

EDIT: like this, but harder..


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If a car is being pulled from the front, doesn't that mean it's being towed?

#17 flyerdan

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Posted 30 May 2018 - 07:51 AM

If you have compressed air, get an air hammer (HF has them for around a tenner) grind a chisel flat so it won't gouge the drum and go around it with short bursts. 

If there are any threads left in the 8x1.25 holes, put a bit of strain on it, and take up the slack as the air hammer loosens it. 

They are remarkable at taking stuck things apart without inflicting the damage that whaling with a bfh can incur.


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#18 rosso

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Posted 30 May 2018 - 03:16 PM

Success! Once I had the confidence to hit it really HARD it only took a dozen hits. Thanks to all for the info about how hard and where I could hit it.



#19 240zness

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Posted 30 May 2018 - 04:00 PM



#20 datsuntech

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Posted 30 May 2018 - 04:09 PM

Wow, that's scary.
Rear Wheel Drive, the way God intended.
If a car is being pulled from the front, doesn't that mean it's being towed?