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Bushwhacked - bushings everywhere !


Madkaw

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Tried searching but coming up short on a thread talking about bushing replacements on the 4x4. Specifically the front dif mount, crossmembers for diff and transfer case. Also front lower control arm bushing that’s in the frame.

I purchased rubber bushing already for the control arms , but now see all these other bushings for the crossmembers that are staring me in the face since I have this truck all apart. Urethane is a bit easier since the metal shell is kept in there, but I know rubber is preferred in certain places . I know I will stay rubber on the tension rod , but repair work has to be done to the frame mount area where it is ovaled out . Like to see some fixes on that also.

I would think with a cab that is mounted on rubber would help separate the harshness of urethane in the suspension bits. Looks like the bushings for the crossmembers are all the same which is good.

Then there’s the rear stuff . Looking for some hints or suggestions .

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There's no advantage to poly on a 4x4.... actually no advantage on anything not a 'race car'. Dirt and water plus extreme suspension movement will cause them to chafe, squeak and wear out faster. When you do replace the rubber let the truck down on it's wheels before tightening the components. A washer can be welded in where the hole has ovaled.

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I run poly on my 71 Z , and ready to replace some back to rubber- especially tension rods . With the Z it’s more about ride quality since there is no separation of cab to frame with rubber like the truck. Didn’t think poly would effect ride quality with the truck that much as far as comfort. I did find rubber bushings on Amazon for the crossmembers mounts . I haven’t had any squeak issues with my urethane bushings , properly lubed and centered makes the difference .

I was thinking the same thing on the welding of a washer . I’m waiting on the bushings to arrive to get an idea on the size of ID of the washer . I’m presuming the ID of the washer should be just big enough to clear the bushing sleeve. It seems that the inner cup on the frame is thin and flimsy , considered putting a beefier washer from an old tension rod kit in there instead. Have welder and can weld so..

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Urethane is preferred ONLY in places where lots of flex is required. like on a leaf spring in an offroad truck where the suspension travel is substantial.

 

As Mike mentioned, urethane bushings get contaminated by grit and grime, but their worst enemy is grease. The wrong grease will permeate the urethane making it flimsy and deteriorate.

 

All of the vehicles I have built over the last few years have been body-off-frame, and if a bushing is needed, I get OEM vulcanized rubber bushings.

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I have done the frame mounted front control arm bushings in various 720s. They are nigh on impossible to install at home. They take hours, literally hours to get seated in the frame properly. For that reason alone, i install poly bushings there. They install reasonably quickly and easily. and i have not experienced substantial increase in stiffness or noise.

 

Based on sheer anger factor, i vote poly front lower control arm bushings, rubber everywhere else.

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I have done the frame mounted front control arm bushings in various 720s. They are nigh on impossible to install at home. They take hours, literally hours to get seated in the frame properly. For that reason alone, i install poly bushings there. They install reasonably quickly and easily. and i have not experienced substantial increase in stiffness or noise.

Based on sheer anger factor, i vote poly front lower control arm bushings, rubber everywhere else.

Thanks for the insight. So the issue was getting it centered correctly for the control to get over it or just difficult to shove in place ?

 

Another dumb question , but does the upper control center link just shoves out one side to get bushings out ? I stare at it and wonder what to do first to relate the bushings . Might need to take a closer look at my manual .

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Thanks for the insight. So the issue was getting it centered correctly for the control to get over it or just difficult to shove in place ?

Simple answer? Yes to all.

 

Another dumb question , but does the upper control center link just shoves out one side to get bushings out ? I stare at it and wonder what to do first to relate the bushings . Might need to take a closer look at my manual .

I seem to recall you Have push out one way then back the other to push both bushings out. Then install one bushing, install the bar, then the other bushing. Not doctrine though.

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A press is ideal, but you could make one out of some big all thread and a properly sized socket wrench. Getting the old ones out can be done easily with a torch and a sawzall. The torch will burn out the old rubber (messy and smelly), and the sawzall can split the old sleeve so it falls out.

 

I have a Snap-On ball joint press kit that makes this job really easy, so I may be biased.

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I have done the frame mounted front control arm bushings in various 720s. They are nigh on impossible to install at home. They take hours, literally hours to get seated in the frame properly. For that reason alone, i install poly bushings there. They install reasonably quickly and easily. and i have not experienced substantial increase in stiffness or noise.

 

Based on sheer anger factor, i vote poly front lower control arm bushings, rubber everywhere else.

Ok, as long as the urethane bushing has a sleeve inside the bushing so you can't crush or overtighten it, then that's fine.

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Don’t remember a part # do you?

So maybe the 2WD had a smaller tension rod and that’s what I got?

 

 

 

 

535-416-007__ra_p.jpg

Dorman 535416

 
 
Yes 2wd and 4wd are different
 

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,720+pickup,2.4l+l4,1210295,suspension,strut+rod+bushing,7608

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8910136&cc=1210295&jsn=10495

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It llooks like 83 might have been a change in some parts.  Look on the drivers door jamb for Manufacture Date and use this to help in your search. 

 

Becareful of Rock Auto close out parts.  I have over $100 dollars worth of correct parts boxes and incorrect parts.  You have to pay shipping back to Rock Auto and then Rock Auto wants to pay you 50% of the original price of the part.  Remember they are liquidating stock!

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Yes- I saw that. I found some on amazon that came up on search. I ordered JUST one to see what it looks like. I bet I’ll be buying a used crossmember  and painting it when all said and done - ugh. I did notice that upper control arm bushings are about the same diameter , just not long enough. Then I thought maybe urethane upper bushings might work, but they are meant to be sized for diameter including OEM bushing - shell - correct?

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Thinking out loud again . My new bushings for the upper control arms do NOT have a shell, probably came that way, but can’t remember . So new urethane bushings would not require ‘ shells’ because there wasn’t any. 

So maybe those bushings in urethane would actually fit the crossmember if I used two and cut down for length?

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