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RaceTEP L20B 620 Header (pics)


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#1 Soundline

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 02:01 PM

I have this in my build thread, but to make searching for it easier, I made its own thread. To be clear, I’m not sponsored by or endorsing this product. I’m just some rando that bought one and this is what showed up. I’ll be doing some stuff to it before I bolt it up. Let me know if you want me to include that.

I ordered this too so we’ll see what I think after it’s done.

RaceTEP L20B header

ZsxeN6C.jpg

How the gasket looks on it

oDDavsn.jpg

Welds on the collector

P2t5pMj.jpg

Close up of the port for the number 1 piston.

RIZZPFV.jpg
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#2 Dolomite

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 02:14 PM

Is that the shorty header? I had the shorty and hated it. I went back to stock manifolds and never looked back.
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#3 Soundline

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 02:22 PM

I believe it is. It’s the only one they had listed. My stock is leaking somewhere. I’ll check it out when I tear it down.

I’ll do a full coating and wrap them then a rudimentary port match and see what I think.
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#4 Dolomite

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 02:31 PM

Do yourself a favor and do something about the slip fit on the secondary pipe, I never got it to seal for shit. And the secondary pipe itself hangs very low if I remember correctly.

Edit: that collector slip fit leaked so badly, it sounded like a damn tractor.
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#5 flatcat19

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 04:25 PM

I told OP previously before that his Y-pipe was cracked.

He never listens.

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#6 metalmonkey47

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 04:40 PM

Take a picture down the collector. 


...seems to me we are being held hostage by these candy-ass pussy, limp wrist, hanky twisting, girly-man, cry when Forrest Gump's mom died, crystal gazing, Om chanting, sandal wearing, whiny voiced, oh I broke a nail, fucks.


#7 datzenmike

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 04:48 PM

Y pipe can be welded.


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#8 MikeRL411

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 06:11 PM

You have bad inclusions on the collector pipe welds.  You should grind and repair welds.  Otherwise you will have joint failure soon.



#9 Soundline

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 12:49 AM

Take a picture down the collector.

 

I assure you... you don’t want to see down there.

 

Y pipe can be welded.

 

This will hopefully be a half measure while the factory one gets a make over.

 

I told OP previously before that his Y-pipe was cracked.
He never listens.

  

He never does...

You have bad inclusions on the collector pipe welds.  You should grind and repair welds.  Otherwise you will have joint failure soon.


Unfortunately... there’s more problems than just that. The partial thickness welds made me want to mag particle test it. It didn’t fare well. I’ll look at the results next week and decide if I can fix it.

For $280 I don’t expect titanium tig welded by a master craftsmen, I do expect the shit to work though.
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#10 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 09:04 AM

$280 for that header??? It's steel, it has no coating, and a slip fit collector. Before that made it onto any of my cars or trucks, I would test fit it, weld a v-band clamp at the collector, and have it ceramic coated. With all that extra effort and cost, you could be half the way to a custom stainless header, which would last forever and fit like a glove.

 

That header is what is commonly referred to as a "cheap header", but with a $280 price tag, maybe we should come up with a new name.



#11 G-Duax

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 09:10 AM

I paid $100 for mine off eBay. Same chinese crap, sold under many different names.

Maybe call it the 'Way Over Priced' header now.


"All of a sudden it started making noise, then started losing power. I limped the car home and tried to get it up the driveway, the engine just died."

 

Why do people do this?

A $100 tow bill is never as much as the extra damage you cause by trying to "limp the car home".

 

Don't be that person !


#12 Soundline

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 12:42 PM

This is exactly where I got it from.

yJW8UG1.jpg

It’s just a screenshot and I’m not really trying to send business their way.

I’ll coat it and wrap it myself after I grind the welds and repair them. The slip ring will get tossed and a flex joint installed.

Basically.... I paid for a project.
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#13 Soundline

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 12:56 PM

And the pic requested.

D39UHz1.jpg

I’m clearly not a photographer. But... the person who fabbed this clearly isn’t a certified welder.
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#14 datzenmike

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 02:00 PM

It's good enough. But what wrong with your manifold? Just the down pipe?


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#15 G-Duax

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 04:49 PM

... the person who fabbed this clearly isn’t a certified welder.

 

Mine was a little worse.

Weld bead hanging off into the end of the primary tube doesn't cut it.

I cut my collector off, and attacked the issue with a 1/4" die grinder.

 

Also shortened the collector, added more reducing cone (large outlets on collectors kill low end).

Brought it down to 2", so the velocity stays up for the next critical 12" of length, where it will then go back up to my 2.5" tail pipe.

Going to weld a V-clamp assembly on it where it joins the 2.5" pipe.


"All of a sudden it started making noise, then started losing power. I limped the car home and tried to get it up the driveway, the engine just died."

 

Why do people do this?

A $100 tow bill is never as much as the extra damage you cause by trying to "limp the car home".

 

Don't be that person !


#16 racerx

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 08:01 AM

Never had luck w shorty headers in the past. You probably won't gain that much anyway.

#17 Soundline

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 08:23 AM

It's good enough. But what wrong with your manifold? Just the down pipe?

  

It’s leaking, so I thought this would be easier than trying to find another one. However, after seeing it, I’m going to have to admit that I’m wrong.

Never had luck w shorty headers in the past. You probably won't gain that much anyway.


I was actually hoping for a better sound. I don’t really think the hp would be noticeable.
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#18 G-Duax

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 08:28 AM

Never had luck w shorty headers in the past. You probably won't gain that much anyway.

 

No one thing will really make a large improvement in power by itself.

These headers will work well with a big cam, intake, and internal engine parts to take higher RPM.

I run the numbers, and they are right in the ball park for me, with a 292 cam, big intake, high compression, and an 8500 RPM read line.


"All of a sudden it started making noise, then started losing power. I limped the car home and tried to get it up the driveway, the engine just died."

 

Why do people do this?

A $100 tow bill is never as much as the extra damage you cause by trying to "limp the car home".

 

Don't be that person !


#19 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 09:05 AM


 

Also shortened the collector, added more reducing cone (large outlets on collectors kill low end).

Brought it down to 2", so the velocity stays up for the next critical 12" of length, where it will then go back up to my 2.5" tail pipe.

 

Right, I forgot the reverse cone. Definitely worth the effort.



#20 Dolomite

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 11:15 AM

$280 for that header??? It's steel, it has no coating, and a slip fit collector. Before that made it onto any of my cars or trucks, I would test fit it, weld a v-band clamp at the collector, and have it ceramic coated. With all that extra effort and cost, you could be half the way to a custom stainless header, which would last forever and fit like a glove.
 
That header is what is commonly referred to as a "cheap header", but with a $280 price tag, maybe we should come up with a new name.


When I made the dumb kid mistake of buying one of these turds 15 years ago, it was $120. Still wasn’t close to worth it.
Chrome door handles are under rated.

Link to my build thread
http://community.rat...er-project-510/