610 stall

[MapleNuts]

Hey guys I could use a hand to get this car ready for Canby! L20b 610

 

Having this weird issue. Car dies/stumbles hard when you give it normal to hard throttle, but revs through rpm fine when very light on initial throttle.

 

Before this the car died on me on the street, not sure why. Tore everything apart and no luck, wouldn’t start. Put everything back once more and it started.... but I forgot I had the throttle wide open from when I was doing a comp test and the car redlined for a few second before I shut it off. Now it’s doing this.

 

Car ran fine for 5-6 months before this issue.

 

Here’s what I know. This is a recently rebuilt motor.

 

Timing is perfect. Even did total timing. (36 at 3k)

 

Can’t find any vacuum leaks.

 

New carb. carb, adapter plate, and mani sanded flat for no leaks. (Previous carb acted same way and that carb was tuned using a gas Analyzer)

Jetting is the same main 160 second 170.

 

 

IGN- new points+condenser (tried 3 condensers). (Points gaped 0.020)Relatively new cap, rotor, wires, and spark plugs (gapped accordingly)

Coil at 1.3 ohm

 

Relatively new fuel pump and filter.

 

Comp 140 all across.

 

Valve lash close but not perfect.

 

Anything helps, if someone capable wants to come take a look at it I’m in Kent/Renton area and it would be much appreciated. Getting down to the wire here Canbys in 2 weeks!

Thanks guys

[Roadster-ka]

Please check cam timing.

[MapleNuts]

It should be fine. Haven’t changed it since I’ve set it up and been driving it for 6 months. Even looked at the mark on the cam gear at Tdc and it was good

[Draker]

It's the Weber, off idle bog. Where if you come off idle it bogs before climbing in the RPMs. When you blip the throttle fast.. it almost dies. It's annoying as fuck.. 

[MapleNuts]

Yupp but why would it be doing this all of sudden with a year old Weber and a brand new one?

[Draker]

Yupp but why would it be doing this all of sudden with a year old Weber and a brand new one?

 

I'm not sure. I've seen some that do it, and some that don't. It's probably a jetting thing honestly. I bet pierce manifolds would probably know.

[MapleNuts]

Yeah I’m guna give them a call. It’s just weird it was working fine and now this weird shit. Thanks

[banzai510(hainz)]

if runnign fine then why the jets would change?

You said this car was good when I ran into you.

 

 

You have a ballast resisitor with the coil?

 

recheck the dist gap as points gave me most of my issues. then it was the car next.

If carb is new then I highly think maybe something else besides a dirty idle jet.

 

 

maybe soemthing bad when you over reved? 

 

distributor have wiggle?  really notice when a misgapped points

[MapleNuts]

There is a ballast with the coil. I just redid points gap when I put in new condenser.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Make sure the carb the 2nd barrel is closed and not partial open as it will make it look like a vaccum leak.

 

try 12-15 BTDC on the timming at idle

[MapleNuts]

Its closed.

 

at 15 degrees idle and total timing 36 degrees.

[datzenmike]

Check the coil tower for cracks or carbon tracking, (I had the exact same thing and there was a small crack. Replaced and the problem disappeared) then the inside and outside of the distributor cap and the rotor. Next move the wires around in case arcing from one to another. Don't assume.

 

 

Pull plugs and look at them. Look for arcing on the porcelain from the plug wire down to the metal body. Plugs give a good indication of what's going on inside the combustion chamber and also if rich or lean. Maybe the electrodes are bent or gap closed. Chunk of carbon broke off and stuck to porcelain. Look for something wrong. Don't assume.

 

Why 3 condensers? Were 2 bad? Maybe this one is shit also. Just disconnect it and run it to see if this fixes the problem. The condenser is to reduce arcing when the points open won't hurt it to disconnect for a test.

[MapleNuts]

the coil has a crack in the tower! i tried to put on another coil for a elcetronic ignition because thats all i had. put it on, car wouldnt even turn over, starter didnt do anything. put old coil back on and same thing.

used a remote starter and it turned over. went back inside the car and fired it up fine. now its acting a hell of a lot better!

 

So real quick before the parts store closes. What ohm coil should i get and while were at it what for the ballast resistor?

[datzenmike]

A points coil is about 1.5 ohms resistance. The ballast is about the same. The ballast reduces the current flowing through the points and the coil to a tolerable level so they don't over heat or burn out.

 

An EI coil is under 1 ohm which may draw too much power through the ballast and over heat it. You can't run without the ballast or you'll roast the points.

[MapleNuts]

So I put the new coil and ballast on and it seems to be working normal! gotta put it back on the ground after brakes and really see! 

 

Thanks again Mike you are a godsend!!! and thanks to everyone else for helping. Ill let you guys know if it works.

 

heres hoping i can make it to Canby!

[Draker]

Woah.. sweet!

 

I'll see ya there.

[banzai510(hainz)]

time to updat your Distributor to electronic . Pertronix ,or Gen 1 or 2 Nissan. and get a BRAND NEW COIL for it.

 

hope the coil you bought says made in Japan! or USA or Germany!!!!!!!

 

go junkyard find a small Toyota one if you go Electric.

[MapleNuts]

Yupp definitely time to upgrade. Maybe I’ll find one at Canby.

 

But from driving it up and down my driveway with no brakes it seems to be working! God what a headache haha. Knew it had to be something stupid.

 

Thanks again guys. Appreciate the help you give to fellow datsuners