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Ignition on - I got nothing.


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#21 MarkB.

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 06:48 PM

Zero at all the fuses.

 

All the fuses are good.  I even switched them around to be sure.

 

I'll work on the fusible link and see if its not making contact some how.


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#22 datzenmike

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 07:49 PM

If the link is crispy or brittle or looks puffy and melted it's probably blown.


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#23 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 05:50 AM

I bet the round lug wire pulled out near the starter lug.

 

Shouldn't take this long to figure this out.

 

 

One time on my 510 that starterlug fusable link connector was loose and had some strands loose. Driving home I hit the HIGHBeams and popped the wire right there . Everything went BLACK!!!!!!!!!!!! car dies lights out !!!!!!!!!!


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#24 MarkB.

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 06:46 PM

 Sorta Success!

 

Part of the answer was the fusible link but not the way I thought.  The fusible link was a plastic plug so I first ohm tested the short section from the round lug wire to the male portion.  It tested OK.  I then ohm tested from the female end to the fuse box and it was OK, too.  The act of taking it apart a few times must have cleaned the prongs inside the plastic section.  I tested it for voltage and got 10V.  The horn started faintly working.  I took it apart and put it together a few more times and had 12.45V at the fuse box.

 

The Autometer inside read 12+ V,  so I pulled on the lights.  They flickered, died and the Voltmeter went to zero.

 

Checking the fuse box with the multimeter reads 3.6V.  Five minutes later it reads 6.8V.

 

I'm glad I have a little power but clearly something has gone wrong somewhere. . . .

 

 

And I am sorry it takes so long, I only get to work on it after the kids go to bed, its still 98 degrees and I'm tired.  


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#25 MarkB.

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 06:57 PM

I went back about 5 minutes later and it was about 8V so I hit the horn and it beeped once and voltage dropped back to about 3.6.  Mind you, the battery still shows 12.45V.


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#26 MarkB.

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 07:35 PM

So thirty minutes later I have 9V.

 

Here's another clue:  if I touch both of the bolts on the back of the starter solenoid I get the same 9V as I'm getting at the fuse box.  And as I said, the battery is putting out 12.45V

 

The solenoid was checked at O'Reilly's but now I'm starting to wonder.


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#27 datzenmike

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 07:51 PM

Clean the battery posts and cables, both of them.

 

Now take the positive battery cable off the starter and clean it and the contact for the fusible link. A wire brush should do.

 

For good measure clean the negative battery cable where it bolts to the head.

 

Last find and clean the negative wire to the body sheet metal..... I think it's connected to one of the bolts holding the voltage regulator onto the fender.  Make sure it's metal to metal contact


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#28 MarkB.

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 08:55 PM

Did it.

 

I cleaned the posts on the battery and the connectors.  I unbolted and cleaned the ground cable from battery to frame.  I took the cable from the battery off the starter solenoid (it still read 12.45 V) and wire brushed it until it shone.  I did the same for the fusible link circle connector.  I took apart the fusible link and clean both ends of the blade and the connector (they were filthy)  I also cleaned the ground wire blade and connector on the back of the starter solenoid. and then put it all back together.

 

Battery reads 12.45V.  Opening the connector for the fusible link, the female (solenoid side) shows 12.45V.

 

But if I hook it up I only have 9.8V at the fuse box.  It seems to be very slowly increasing voltage as before, just faster.

 

.


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#29 datzenmike

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 05:48 AM

Try making a solid wire jumper to go around the fusible link putting voltage directly from the starter to the fuse box. You will want at least a 12 gauge thickness wire for this.This will eliminate the fusible link as the cause.... if it is the cause. This will get you by if it fixes the problem but should really be replaced as soon as you can with a proper fusible link.


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#30 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 06:14 AM

soemthing is loose or corroded

could be some others issues?

Battery charged?alternator shorting out ? cracked lug on battery cable  Im just winging it now but I think ts a fasable link lug up to the fuse box no making a good connection which causes a load and draws down the voltage


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#31 Charlie69

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 03:58 PM

Clean the fuse box before you burn something up!!