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Ignition on - I got nothing.


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#1 MarkB.

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 08:25 PM

72 510.

L20B w/ El dizzy

Stock wiring harness

It was running fine.

 

Went out to take it to golf.  Turned the key.  Nothing.  Should have heard electric radiator fans and then crank over.

 

Looked at voltmeter gauge -showed Zero Volts.

 

Took battery and starter + solenoid to O'Reilly -- all checked out fine. (Battery kept on trickle charger)

 

Battery should have had gauge reading about 12V but as noted the gauge read 0V.

 

Checked the fuse box - everything was OK 

 

Checked the ground from frame to engine and from - port on the battery to frame.  Both were fine.

 

Lights don't come on either.

 

I got nothing.  What do I check next? 


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#2 Rick-rat

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 09:31 PM

I would check the main wire from the positive post of the battery, check with ohm meter or check voltage on other end from the battery post. make sure the battery has 12 volts

 

 Make sure posts and connections are clean and tight, remove and clean ground wires and be sure they are tight



#3 datzenmike

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 04:48 AM

 There is a fusible link from the starter to the fuse box. This provides power to the ignition switched accessories on the fuse box and directly to the fuse box for things like lights, brake lights, horn, interior lights. You said the fuse box checked out so how can that be?

 

Does anything turn on? 


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#4 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 05:28 AM

to me I would trace the 12volts from batter to the stater then to the fuse box then to the key switch.

 

this is a simple fix.

Happens on my 521 more often as the fuse box gets a litlle more wet and corrosion or loose connections

 

if the key is ON and nothing thats a sign its the source I would think(example lights not ON)

lights are wired right to the battery. so ingintion is not needed.

 

light not working. The battery cable goes to the starter and there should be a wire with round lug that connects to it. I bete the issue is right there as this feeds the fuse box and the lights. Get a test light or meter and see where the 12volts dissapears

 

turn on light switch.  when you trouble shoot and  lights come on you found the proplem and bet the ignition now works


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#5 Doctor510

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 10:04 AM

I would check the main wire from the positive post of the battery, check with ohm meter or check voltage on other end from the battery post. make sure the battery has 12 volts

 

 Make sure posts and connections are clean and tight, remove and clean ground wires and be sure they are tight

Batteries need 13+ Volts to work properly 



#6 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 10:22 AM

Since DOCTOR mention this

I also had batt batt cable  ends being cracked. or a bolt keeping it tight broke not knowing but usually you still get a ignition lite as its enought juice to light up the lights , Once you turn the key it loads down.

 

a bad batter post junction one can put a volt meter from the batt post to the batt cable right nex to it and if you get a volt reading with the say 1 or 2 volts there is a loose connection. if good connection you wont read anything or hardly anything at all.


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#7 Dolomite

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 10:46 AM

I once had a similar problem, I don’t know how but the connector on the ignition switch came loose. Probably not your issue, but it would nice if it were so simple.
Chrome door handles are under rated.

Link to my build thread
http://community.rat...er-project-510/

#8 datzenmike

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 11:11 AM

The headlights, clock, brake light, interior light, horn... would still work. I can't see how the fuse box checked out if nothing works.


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#9 john510

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 03:18 PM

Batteries need 13+ Volts to work properly 

??? 13 volts for the charging system or the battery itself ? i've never had a battery test more than 12.5 volts unless it was charging or in a running car.



#10 MarkB.

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 07:16 PM

Thanks guys,

 

I have a multimeter.  Battery posts test at 12.48V.

 

And yeah, nothing (and I mean nothing) works.  Checked all fuses.

 

Goodness knows its not moisture around here; it hasn't rained since January.

 

I understand and have located the fusible link (I have one of those colored wiring diagrams also)  But it looks just like some kind of plug  Is there supposed to be a fuse inside?  If so, It was gone before I got the car.

 

I'm going to trace the + cable from the battery after the kids go to bed.  I'll let you know.


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#11 Rick-rat

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 07:20 PM

There is no fuse in the fusible link. If it wasn't there when it was running , that is not the problem. when a fusible link goes bad , it looks like a small section of melted wire



#12 datzenmike

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 07:58 PM

Again, do you have voltage at the fuse box? This will tell if the fusible link is working or not. If no voltage at the fuse box the problem may be the fusible link or it's connection points, or the positive battery wire or the positive battery connection. Is there voltage at the starter?

 

The wire is the fuse. When over loaded it melts just like a fuse and breaks the connection.


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#13 MarkB.

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 07:59 PM

Well,  The + wire from the battery delivers 12.4+ V to the back of the starter solenoid.

 

Yeah, its not the fusible link, either.  It's damn hot in the garage.  I'll post more in the morning.


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#14 datzenmike

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 04:38 AM

Alright, power gets that far at least. now it has to get to the fuse box.


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#15 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 05:18 AM

fuck !!!

check at the fuse box

 

of coarse you going to get 12volts at the starter post as its highly unlikey the batter cable went bad. this is a good start but continue on till you loose the 12volts

I went thru this.

the round lug from the starter post goes up to the fuse box. 


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#16 KELMO

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 07:56 AM

Here comes Kelmo with the left field.......Sometimes at the electrical portion of the ignition switch, the plastic part will separate from the metal housing and the connection breaks.  I have had this happen on my 1200's and it about drove me to distraction.  The same thing just happened on a Roadster I am storing for a friend. I found it almost by accident when I took out the ignition switch to swap with another and saw where the separation had occurred.


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"Well, primer gray IS a color..." (quote: Kelmo's wife)

#17 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 08:12 AM

Kelmo his proplem is before the ignition switch as he dont have lights.

Lights dont go thru the ignition switch . Its goes from the battery hook up to the fuse box then to ground via the switch.also the door switch Dome light Cig lighter ,rear brake lights. All these dont need the ignition switch.


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#18 KELMO

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 08:34 AM

Oooppssyy. I was stuck on the first post and thought no dash lights, not no lights at all.  Like I said, left field and all. B)


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"Well, primer gray IS a color..." (quote: Kelmo's wife)

#19 MarkB.

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 06:12 PM

OK so I've understood everything you guys have told me so far.

 

And i see the wire that has the fusible link that disappears into the wiring loam.

 

So where do i touch the multimeter to test if the fuse box is getting 12V?


'72 510 2-door (running)

'73 510 2-door (not running)


#20 datzenmike

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 06:23 PM

Some fuses are switched and get their power through the ignition switch like the wipers or heater. Some are 'on' all the time like the headlights. Try all the fuses. If you find power to any then the fusible link is presumed to be ok and allowing power through. If everything is dead then one of two things..

 

The fusible link is blown or it's not making contact at the starter terminal or at the fuse box end. Maybe loose connection...


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