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Transmission installation ??


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lrs-23spline_8112.jpg

 

Did you use the spline tool to align your clutch disc before tightening the pressure plate on?

 

Just lift the transmission up level with the engine. The engine is only held in place by the engine mounts and is likely tilted down at the rear making lining up a little easier. Slide the nose of the transmission past the clutch diaphragm fingers and into the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. Wiggle it around while pushing forward and into place.

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First things first, did you use a clutch alignment tool? Second, and I’ve not seen it mentioned here, I use two long bolts with the heads cut off finger tight in the top mounting holes. This makes it monumentally easier to slide the trans in. Third, you may have to put it in gear and rotate the tailshaft a tad to get the splines lined up.

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New fork? The fork is being changed??? You mean the distance below is 1/8" shorter???

 

 

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If you measure from the flywheel surface back to the tines on the release bearing collar that the clutch arm clips onto, it should be 89mm +/- a mm. That's 3.5".

 

This distance is critical as too short forces the slave to over extend it's travel and it may not be able to compress the PP enough to release the clutch disc. Too long and the release bearing may be pushing on the diaphragm fingers all the time (wearing it out) and the PP may slip.  The slave is designed to move 1.18" so that is fixed as are the push rod and the clutch arm geometry.

 

riuq4Uz.jpg

 

Looking at the clutch arm, the fulcrum point is about 33% shorter on the clutch side to increase the mechanical advantage of the slave. Or, the slave travels 33% farther, so 1.18" of slave travel equals only 0.79" of release bearing travel. Adding 1/8" (0.125) to the release bearing is adding 0.166" to the slave end. Or 1.18 + 0.166 = 1.34". You may run out of pedal travel or slave piston travel.

 

Can you get away with 1/8" shorter? Maybe. The clutch will release closer to the floor, if it does. This may also become worse as the clutch wears down.

 

You might get away with lengthening the slave push rod but again this would move the  clutch arm back closer to the rear edge of the hole the dust boot is in.

 

 

Can you measure the length of the release collar from the clutch side of the tines to the front where the bearing is? Preferably with the bearing off.

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What motor? What flywheel? If it's a 200mm clutch, you may have had a Roadster clutch in it and not known. They are different than a stock L16 clutch, which would explain the height difference.

 

Are you sure you didn't put the disc in backwards, causing the disc to bottom out on the flywheel bolts?

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I believe the Roadster clutch is a direct swap. Never heard of any 510 owners complaining about this.

 

I've tried to put a disc in backwards and it can't be done. The spline part sticks out to the front and hits the crank end before you can get the pressure plate bolts in.

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What motor? What flywheel? If it's a 200mm clutch, you may have had a Roadster clutch in it and not known. They are different than a stock L16 clutch, which would explain the height difference.

 

Are you sure you didn't put the disc in backwards, causing the disc to bottom out on the flywheel bolts?

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Also I am starting to think that when I gave my old flywheel to the machine shop.i Could have picked up possible different one??

Because my original fly wheel didn't have that circle groove on it .and the one I picked up has circle groove

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As others have asked,did you use the alignment tool ? if not that's probably your problem.One thing i do is jack up the front of the engine lightly to tilt the back side down.That helps with the tranny missing the firewall/tunnel.

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