KoHeartsGPA Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 It's pointless if he still has vital parts missing/disconnected, these motors need everything hooked up, or it'll spit codes. 2 Quote Link to comment
Troy Fodor Posted May 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 All other injectors were clogged. 35$ For new I said fuck it n got new ones .. Why only one inj, troy check that the other three from ECM are hooked up. This was a running motor right ? 1 Quote Link to comment
Troy Fodor Posted May 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 I changed the ECU, same thing. I have spark. I feel I’m having a Fuel issue. Only code both ECUs were giving was Knock Sensor. Changed it out. I’ve tried having MAF hooked up n unhooked. Still won’t start, unless I spray Carb cleaner. Once I start it she idles fine. Might be the ECU, we chased a spark issue for hours and hours on one of our local guys KA swap and the next day he plugged in another ECU and fired right up, I highly recommend trying another working ECU before you continue to shoot in the dark, might be that simple, once you eliminate the ECU as a cause then it is easier to move on. Also, everything needs to be plugged in or the ECU will get codes and not run correctly. Quote Link to comment
Troy Fodor Posted May 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 Yea it is important but still won’t start wit or without.. n I just got a knock sensor n installed it "Still need to get knock sensor & intake Tube "... .....That "intake tube" is important to the operation of everything. The IACV needs metered air after the MAF for the engine to run correctly. Leaks in the intake will make it run like cr@p. Try some spray carb or MAF cleaner in the IACV also. Knock Sensor is $40 on rockauto.com FYI... . Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted May 17, 2018 Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 Did you bleed the fuel line before plugging it to the fuel rail?, That's important also to get all the air out, pull the line from the rail and turn the ignition on so that the pump runs (without cranking the engine), once you verify you got gas coming, plug it to the rail, also make sure you have it in the correct side of the rail, one is return (the one with the valve) Quote Link to comment
Troy Fodor Posted May 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 I have done that. Seems like if I’m not getting enough fuel. Yes I have them on the right side. Did you bleed the fuel line before plugging it to the fuel rail?, That's important also to get all the air out, pull the line from the rail and turn the ignition on so that the pump runs (without cranking the engine), once you verify you got gas coming, plug it to the rail, also make sure you have it in the correct side of the rail, one is return (the one with the valve) Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 So you can't get it to fire on it's own, but once you get it started on carb spray, it stays running? Spitballing here... ignitor, crank sensor, cam sensor, circuit opening relay, MAF, MAP... all of these could relate to that problem. Don't know if the DE has all of this, but if one of hese is wired wrong, it may do what you're describing. 1 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 Did you hook up the orange wire? 1 Quote Link to comment
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