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Gaskets and suspension swaps


datb210sun

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Spring rate is fact but the driving experience is subjective. Some (usually the younger) tend towards too stiff, while the 'less younger', prefer something more like 'sensible shoes' that do the job. My 710 spring was about 100 lb/in and I increased it to 150 or 50% stiffer. Now I find it quite firm but I guess within the reasonable range. Another driver might like it even stiffer others maybe less. Another thing... a 200 lb/in spring... how do you compare it to the stock spring? The numbers are 2X higher but how do you 'feel' 2X stiffer??? Just how do you quantify stiffer???? Some enthusiasts run upwards of 300 lb/in in their 510s. To me if 50% is this firm then 300% would be over the moon stiff. 

 

I would suggest spring trimming  to 50% and then increases of 25% till you go too far then pay for new springs in the rate you are most pleased with. Drive them around for several weeks to find out what you don't like about the new firmness.

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Flatcat, I found these tokico blue inserts which has many great reviews for 280zx struts, https://m.ebay.com/itm/Tokico-HP-blue-shocks-inserts-for-79-83-Nissan-280zx-Front-Pair-Made-in-Japan-/262247416501(but I might just use the old strut inserts to save some money, since I'm going the camber plate and split collar route)

Mike, really appreciate your input, I'm looking to go autox route and with the 200lbs rate, I'm sure it'll help with handling better than cutting it(I could easily eff it up, since I wouldn't know where to cut; I just prefer new springs (which is only 135$ for these eibach-I've used eibach with kyb adjustable on my project impreza gc and they are great, never let me down) so far I'm under 500 with everything I need to make my strut assembly like new, beats 1k which I can use that money for new rotors and brakeline.

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I used a jack and a chunk of 2x4 to push the collar and perch up to compress the coil spring. Then tighten the collar and do the other side to match. Then lower and check the ride height. Then either lower or raise the collars to correct. Keep in mind that you have about 2-3" of lowering, same as the coil overs. You still want to avoid any chance of the strut bottoming out. So stiffer spring rate and good dampers are a must! But once set where you want it, why would you need to adjust again anyway?

 

Spring rate is fact but the driving experience is subjective. Some (usually the younger) tend towards too stiff, while the 'less younger', prefer something more like 'sensible shoes' that do the job. My 710 spring was about 100 lb/in and I increased it to 150 or 50% stiffer. Now I find it quite firm but I guess within the reasonable range. Another driver might like it even stiffer others maybe less. Another thing... a 200 lb/in spring... how do you compare it to the stock spring? The numbers are 2X higher but how do you 'feel' 2X stiffer??? Just how do you quantify stiffer???? Some enthusiasts run upwards of 300 lb/in in their 510s. To me if 50% is this firm then 300% would be over the moon stiff. 

 

I would suggest spring trimming  to 50% and then increases of 25% till you go too far then pay for new springs in the rate you are most pleased with. Drive them around for several weeks to find out what you don't like about the new firmness.

 

So I looked at my old thread to see what I did with cutting my springs. 

 

B210 springs are much longer then the 280zx springs (14in vs 12in or so). Evidently I cut the B210 springs to the same unsprung height as the 280zx springs so it would be unlikely to bottom out, from my post that is 8 coils left. That left a decent amount of fender gap though, but drove well so I took another coil off. Datsunfreaks notes on his he cut the spring short enough that the strut could just be put together with out a spring compressor (or very close).

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/23374-story-time-my-1974-b210-4dr-now-no-longer-a-ka24e-swap/page-2

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Dguy..... if you carefully measure the wire thickness and the outside to outside coil diameter and the number of free coils, (not touching each other) I can work out the rate.

 

I calculated it at some point, don't remember the value though (I was doing daily material testing at the time so this was an easy one). Kind of fell in the works, so good enough. 

 

Stock B210 is kind of mushy though, they definitely stiffened up but not so much as to be uncomfortable. 

 

I'll make some measurements next time I have a tire off.

 

However, having said that there is a decent chance my springs are non-standard anyways, they came off a heavily modified B210 that was sporting a Ford V8 and all kinds of upgrades. 

 

Edit: Found a pic of my strut, this is before I trimmed the 280ZX strut cup.

oPjxtTDm.jpg

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/23374-story-time-my-1974-b210-4dr-now-no-longer-a-ka24e-swap/page-8

Edited by Dguy210
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Maybe others just put a stigma on these that they are bad(well, for other make and models). What are the torque specs on the A14? I've tried searching for that on here, couldn't find it Thanks guys, you all are a big help.

 

Backyard mechanics always blame their tools or parts and never themselves. If the head and block are flat and so clean you could eat off of them. If you clean and lightly oil the head bolts. If you clean the threaded holes in the block. If you torque carefully in sequence and at least two stages and use a torque wrench, a felpro is fine.

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