Gaskets and suspension swaps

[datb210sun]

Hey guys,

 

I'm still new to Datsun cars. Haven't touched my 75 b210 over a yr and now I want to start working on it. Want to know if anyone have any good source to getting gaskets (heads, oil pan, etc) or your local part stores should carry them? Also, I got my hands on a 280zx struts/brakes to swap out and was told that techno tuning has a conversion kit, but what I don't understand is that why I can't just buy the full conversion kit instead of just using the 280zx struts? Any help would be appreciated.

[flatcat19]

Shop rockauto for your parts; gaskets, etc.

 

Can't help with with the texhno toy stuff. But, if you already have the struts- what do you need techno toy for?

[datb210sun]

Well, I wanted to lower the car and do not want to cut the springs. I guess I will have to talk to the guys at Techno Tuning myself.

[datzenmike]

Look at it this way. If your car goes through a dip in the road at 60 mph and the body drops to within an inch of the pavement and you lower it 2 inches and try that again you are into some serious damage. If lowering, it's essential that you increase the spring rate and improve the damping or shocks. All cars tend to have somewhat soft springs as it has to please the most buyers. A firmer spring reduces body roll and just handles better. Lowering, lowers the vehicle center of gravity and improves the ride and handling even more. You don't have to cut your springs but you already have them so why the hell not???? you could buy them in the rate you want. 

 

 

TT stuff is just too damned expensive for something you adjust once and then drive around on with the money tied up. I put Maxima struts and brakes on my Datsun. It's lower, I increased the spring rate by 50% by trimming the spring, the height is adjustable, although once I got it where I wanted it, (it's stayed there for years) and I replaced the thin hydraulic damper oil with thicker 20W motorcycle for oil to firm up the damping. All this for under $50 CDN. It's not rocket science and the hundreds saved is good for new pads and rotors and a rebuild kit for the 15/16" master cylinder... and more.

 

Now if money is no object knock yourself out.... if you like working with tools and have a hacksaw do what I did and tell everyone you did it yourself.

[Dolomite]

Hey guys,

I'm still new to Datsun cars. Haven't touched my 75 b210 over a yr and now I want to start working on it. Want to know if anyone have any good source to getting gaskets (heads, oil pan, etc) or your local part stores should carry them? Also, I got my hands on a 280zx struts/brakes to swap out and was told that techno tuning has a conversion kit, but what I don't understand is that why I can't just buy the full conversion kit instead of just using the 280zx struts? Any help would be appreciated.

Here’s my $.02, I got zx struts and brakes, cut the spring perches off and welded on a piece of pipe for a new perch for ebay collars. The ebay collars are cheap as fuck and function fine. I ordered eibach springs from summit for around $100. I already had tokico adjustable inserts in my 510, so those were a direct swap. I used techno toy tuning camber plates and roll center adjusters. I saved a shit ton of money that way, and got a really high quality suspension. I’ve adjusted my ride height a few times to get it right, and it’s no problem to raise or lower it for bad roads or car shows.

[datzenmike]

Bump steer spacers? I made my own too out of scrap aluminum. BTW it made a huge difference. If lowering you really need this necessary correction.

 

[datb210sun]

Here’s my $.02, I got zx struts and brakes, cut the spring perches off and welded on a piece of pipe for a new perch for ebay collars. The ebay collars are cheap as fuck and function fine. I ordered eibach springs from summit for around $100. I already had tokico adjustable inserts in my 510, so those were a direct swap. I used techno toy tuning camber plates and roll center adjusters. I saved a shit ton of money that way, and got a really high quality suspension. I’ve adjusted my ride height a few times to get it right, and it’s no problem to raise or lower it for bad roads or car shows.

I really want to replace inserts, new springs, and add camber plates without having to spend so much. I just don't have the welding skills to weld anything, yet alone, don't have access to one. Seems like I'm going to go your route. Thanks for the info. Btw, isn't the 510 suspension pretty much similar to the b210?

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/210/front-weld-coilover-kit-datsun-210 I was looking at something like this?

[datb210sun]

Look at it this way. If your car goes through a dip in the road at 60 mph and the body drops to within an inch of the pavement and you lower it 2 inches and try that again you are into some serious damage. If lowering, it's essential that you increase the spring rate and improve the damping or shocks. All cars tend to have somewhat soft springs as it has to please the most buyers. A firmer spring reduces body roll and just handles better. Lowering, lowers the vehicle center of gravity and improves the ride and handling even more. You don't have to cut your springs but you already have them so why the hell not???? you could buy them in the rate you want.

 

 

TT stuff is just too damned expensive for something you adjust once and then drive around on with the money tied up. I put Maxima struts and brakes on my Datsun. It's lower, I increased the spring rate by 50% by trimming the spring, the height is adjustable, although once I got it where I wanted it, (it's stayed there for years) and I replaced the thin hydraulic damper oil with thicker 20W motorcycle for oil to firm up the damping. All this for under $50 CDN. It's not rocket science and the hundreds saved is good for new pads and rotors and a rebuild kit for the 15/16" master cylinder... and more.

 

Now if money is no object knock yourself out.... if you like working with tools and have a hacksaw do what I did and tell everyone you did it yourself.

Yeah, it's very expensive for a car I won't be driving much. I just want a nice affordable drop with new components. I actually do everything to my other projects. Just not a welder. And this is the first classic car I ever own. Something I will have to learn. I love these datsun body so much. I really appreciate your input. Anything helps. Just need to find the right source to get this affordable setup together.

[flatcat19]

Don't need a welder. Look up split lock collars.

All you would need is a cutting tool and a crecent wrench.

 

 

 

And forget the inserts. Use thicker oil in the stock assy. like Mike suggested.

[datb210sun]

Kingrat, Would you be able to make more for sale once requested? haha

[datb210sun]

Btw, with the 280zx brake/caliper. Would I need a new master cylinder? Flatcat, I've been searching on 510 280zx swap and a member posted a link up for the split collars that can be used http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

This should work? My question is, does it matter on the size of the collars?

[datzenmike]

 

I didn't know exactly how much was needed so I used 1/4" scrap and was just going to stack them. It turned out the 1/2" was close enough and longer bolts. There is a round turn on our street with a dip or two near the edge of pavement. When driving through it with a little verv, the steering wheel would saw from side to side (maybe 3" or so?) as the right tire drove through it. It always made me wonder why till I put these on. You can feel the bumps still but the steering remains stable. 

 

I used a jigsaw to cut them out and a drill press to make the holes. The large one is a 1 1/2" hole saw I think. It might have been made for wood but aluminum is soft and I went slowly didn't hurt the teeth.

 

 

As gato says you don't need a welder and actually, you can get by with only a hacksaw. I used a 6" angle grinder, the rest are just wrenches. If you have the oil bath dampers in the zx struts still, I would keep them and just change the oil.

 

The ZX calipers will use more fluid so your pedal may travel a little farther than now, giving the impression of being mushy. They will still work fine. I would leave the B-210 master on and try it first. If you increase the master size the effort needed to move more fluid goes up, after all you can't get something for nothing. However the B-210 has a brake booster that lowers the brake pedal effort so likely you won't notice the difference if you go larger. My 710 had a 13/16" master and I replaced with a 15/16" and pedal is just right.  

 

 

 

.

[datb210sun]

Thanks Mike on the master cylinder part. I'll just keep it for now and see how the feel is. Btw, looks like you need some new endlinks. Haha. I got some from mevotech. Looking forward to replace them along with the ball joints. Also, would I still able to use the b210 steering arms or I'll have to get one from a 280zx (sucks it didn't came with the zx struts I bought).

[datzenmike]

You keep the steering knuckle, the part below the spacers, so only the strut tube above them are changed.

[datb210sun]

cool thanks :thumbup:

[Dguy210]

What you need:

280zx struts, inserts or replace oil, b210 springs, b210 struts, new soft brake lines, TTT 280zx/510 bumpsteer spacers (help with tire wear) and not very pricey.

 

Cut b210 springcup off cleanly. Sit it inside 280zx spring cup, trim edges of 280zx spring cup a bit (will smack the underside slightly sometimes). Trim B210 spring down if you wish, maybe 1-2 coils max.

 

Change insert on Zx strut or change oil, either works. Reassemble strut with b210 springcup sitting in 280zx cup using b210 spring and b210 top hat. Swap left to right as struts so calipers are towards front of car, use 280zx soft brake lines. Stock master cylinder is fine but will feel a bit more travel or softer, works just fine.

 

Realign your tires, string and tape method is ok here.

 

Most of the B210 front end is very very similar to 510 front end. Pretty much all the hop up parts fit. I'm on mobile but I think there might be pics on my build thread.

 

Make sure to get a good spring compressor! I use 2 cause I'm paranoid. You can rent them from many auto stores, for basically free.

 

You will need a very big wrench to get the strut nut off. Put a bit of threadlock on when you reassemble. They have a tendency to work loose.

[datzenmike]

Trim the lower perch or spring cups off the strut tube, and use split collars to support them, and the ride height is adjustable. 2" split collars about $20

 

Make sure you are not in the way when the gland nut is removed to release the coil spring. Restrain or clamp the spring so there is no 'explosive' release of tension.

 

ANY raising or lowering will change your toe in alignment.

 

Use bump steer spacers to correct bump steer. Do this before any alignment is done.

 

You'll likely need 14" rims to clear the larger calipers. Possibly clearance grinding on the caliper will work also.

[Dguy210]

Trim the lower perch or spring cups off the strut tube, and use split collars to support them, and the ride height is adjustable. 2" split collars about $20

 

Make sure you are not in the way when the gland nut is removed to release the coil spring. Restrain or clamp the spring so there is no 'explosive' release of tension.

 

ANY raising or lowering will change your toe in alignment.

 

Use bump steer spacers to correct bump steer. Do this before any alignment is done.

 

You'll likely need 14" rims to clear the larger calipers. Possibly clearance grinding on the caliper will work also.

 

I was a bit lazy and just stacked the cups, worked pretty well all things considered, haven't bothered to swap to the coilovers or go any further as I've been happy with them that way.

 

Very good point here:

"You'll likely need 14" rims to clear the larger calipers. Possibly clearance grinding on the caliper will work also."

 

With very few exceptions 13" rims will not fit. Some 14" steelies don't fit. Anything Z car rim seems to work pretty well.

[datb210sun]

What you need:

280zx struts, inserts or replace oil, b210 springs, b210 struts, new soft brake lines, TTT 280zx/510 bumpsteer spacers (help with tire wear) and not very pricey.

 

Cut b210 springcup off cleanly. Sit it inside 280zx spring cup, trim edges of 280zx spring cup a bit (will smack the underside slightly sometimes). Trim B210 spring down if you wish, maybe 1-2 coils max.

 

Change insert on Zx strut or change oil, either works. Reassemble strut with b210 springcup sitting in 280zx cup using b210 spring and b210 top hat. Swap left to right as struts so calipers are towards front of car, use 280zx soft brake lines. Stock master cylinder is fine but will feel a bit more travel or softer, works just fine.

 

Realign your tires, string and tape method is ok here.

 

Most of the B210 front end is very very similar to 510 front end. Pretty much all the hop up parts fit. I'm on mobile but I think there might be pics on my build thread.

 

Make sure to get a good spring compressor! I use 2 cause I'm paranoid. You can rent them from many auto stores, for basically free.

 

You will need a very big wrench to get the strut nut off. Put a bit of threadlock on when you reassemble. They have a tendency to work loose.

Dguy, I was looking at the weld on kit. (https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/front-weld-coilover-kit-datsun-510) I want new springs and going with the insert route; want to grab this kit and just install them onto the 280zx struts. My question is with the perches that's offer in this package, I wouldn't necessarily have to weld them on to the 280zx, right? I can just let it sit? As far ordering from TTT, I can just order this kit under 280zx as well?!? I am looking to get their camber plates as well( still beats spending nearly a grand on that full strut assembly kit). I didn't think those bumpsteer spacers would be 95$. I calculated that if I get the weld on coilovers kit, camber plates, and bump steer spacers; it'll come out to be 530$(beats 1k) haha

[datb210sun]

Trim the lower perch or spring cups off the strut tube, and use split collars to support them, and the ride height is adjustable. 2" split collars about $20

 

Make sure you are not in the way when the gland nut is removed to release the coil spring. Restrain or clamp the spring so there is no 'explosive' release of tension.

 

ANY raising or lowering will change your toe in alignment.

 

Use bump steer spacers to correct bump steer. Do this before any alignment is done.

 

You'll likely need 14" rims to clear the larger calipers. Possibly clearance grinding on the caliper will work also.

Oh, I've done plenty of strut assembly remove and install on my subies plenty of time, I know the pressure on working on them. Haha. Good thing I bought a 14" AR rims. Hopefully, it'll clear the calipers. If I get that weld on coilovers kit, I wouldn't need those split collars since I would be able to adjust it then?!?

[datzenmike]

Well again it's paying for being adjustable but once set, never need to be adjusted... and needs welding. That's hundreds tied up just along for the ride. Split collars need no welding and can also be adjusted but are $20

[flatcat19]

I'd rather be in to a task like this for less than a $100 vs $530 or $1000.

 

Results are all the same.

 

 

Buy their camber plates, sure. Everything else...you're already pretty much done.

 

 

 

Split collars give adjustability. Loosen nut, move.

[datb210sun]

I see. Thanks for the input guys. Need to think on this a little more..

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F301928345679

Probably get these.

[datzenmike]

I used a jack and a chunk of 2x4 to push the collar and perch up to compress the coil spring. Then tighten the collar and do the other side to match. Then lower and check the ride height. Then either lower or raise the collars to correct. Keep in mind that you have about 2-3" of lowering, same as the coil overs. You still want to avoid any chance of the strut bottoming out. So stiffer spring rate and good dampers are a must! But once set where you want it, why would you need to adjust again anyway?

[datb210sun]

I used a jack and a chunk of 2x4 to push the collar and perch up to compress the coil spring. Then tighten the collar and do the other side to match. Then lower and check the ride height. Then either lower or raise the collars to correct. Keep in mind that you have about 2-3" of lowering, same as the coil overs. You still want to avoid any chance of the strut bottoming out. So stiffer spring rate and good dampers are a must! But once set where you want it, why would you need to adjust again anyway?

So those split collars I posted should be fine. I was looking into this eibach springs at 200lbs spring rate. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/eibach?page=2 Again, I don't want to spend an abundance of money on this setup (budget will be around 300 I'm willing to spend on this since I am planning to keep this car for a long time). But I do want a few new parts(springs, inserts, bump steer spacers, and camber plates--going with the split collars route). As far as the perches go, I can just get the one for a 510 on TTT since it's not expensive at all? I found kyb inserts for like under 40$ each (since I get new inserts, won't have to fill oil)