Charlie69 Posted May 15, 2018 Report Share Posted May 15, 2018 Save me the flex plale, collar, bolts, and starter if you have them. Mike I believe that the 85/86 720 5 speed trans are the short 26 inch ones. Please correct me if I am wrong. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 15, 2018 Report Share Posted May 15, 2018 I think both were available. May depend on reg cab or long wheelbase? 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 15, 2018 Report Share Posted May 15, 2018 My parts truck is an 85 king cab. I will be pulling the engine and trans soon for a parts swap. I will post back if the king ca is a long or short trans. Quote Link to comment
Mesk1 Posted May 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Holy crap is it difficult to find anything ka24de for a 240 lol all sr20 shit. local had an ad in fb he has intake mani and throttle body off a 96. Will pick it up as soon as a meetup is established. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 My 85 Engine and transmission is already spoken for. The person will pick it up in June. 1 Quote Link to comment
Mesk1 Posted May 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 I can’t find the post that depicted in detail how to measure the trannies, anyone have the images saved? 1 Quote Link to comment
Mesk1 Posted May 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 Haven’t done anything guys. Motor is still in Douglas might bring it up this weekend. Sourcing intake and harness and ecu at the moment. Hard parts to find around here. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 26, 2018 Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 Trans are measured from the front edge of the bell housing to the back edge of the tailshaft. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 26, 2018 Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 Automatics have a flex plate rather than a flywheel. If an automatic you will need a manual flywheel. Again trucks are 240mm and cars used the 225mm pressure plates and clutch. If going with a car flywheel you will need the matching release bearing collar for it to work. Also automatics have a cover on the end of the crank that needs prying off if fitting a manual flywheel. The end of an automatic crankshaft also won't have a pilot bushing in the end so get one of those too. About $4. This is what Mike is refering to. The crankside in the picture. Quote Link to comment
Mesk1 Posted May 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 Thanks Charlie. Might totally scrap the DE idea as I came across a more complete single cam deal. Monday I’ll update. Have safe weekend everyone! 1 Quote Link to comment
Mesk1 Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Happy Monday everyone! Well here is the DE lol https://imgur.com/a/qeOWuXL And here is the full hardbody ka24e https://imgur.com/a/Vs5akNH Brother wants to set it in place. So we will see what the following hours bring Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 The full swap is more complete and will be easier to work with from the aspect of chasing parts. Did you buy the full swap also? 1 Quote Link to comment
Mesk1 Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Got the whole swap. No diagram in the Can am box thread for hookup so will study the diagrams on alldata and share info here. Not enough truck ka documentation on here. Quote Link to comment
Mesk1 Posted May 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Last pics for the day. Toon off power steering fan, need to get ac off and then tranny. Fingers crossed for a good clutch lol. https://imgur.com/a/B4fWZiZ Excuse the lack of mechanic tools and stands. All on the floor for now. Found the wiring diagrams. The the main harness is composed of three sections. Electicalf chassis and main. Have all those mapped out. Anyone go ahead and keep the truck intake mani? I have the entire harness just wanted to bounce ideas or unknowns to me. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 I would keep it as it is manifold matches wiring. I think the easiest way to deal with the Harness is use complete harness minus what you do not need.I did yhis on my 520 and I used a 1980 720 wiring harness.This way all of you ring is the year of motor and trans. Get a set of depinning tools because you will need to repin the head light plugs and add in for the second head lamp because the hardbody only had 2 headlights. You will have a much better harness when you get done. 1 Quote Link to comment
Mesk1 Posted May 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Cool thanks for he advice Charlie. My bro was looking at me like why are you worried about wiring? You have the entire thing! Lol. Last night I printed out main harness diagram, electric, and main, it’s split in the drawings but not in the harness, still a good map though. Will do a bit more dismantling of the stuff I don’t need, I will keep the ac stuff to see if I can machine a bracket in the power steering location. Have to take measurements. I don’t see a possibility of mounting it anywhere else. Unless I redo a custom steering rack which I’m not really interested in doing. First goal is to get it running I’ll worry about ac then. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Remember Pushing the harness throught the firewall shortest first unless the is like a ground wire that is close and will allow more room for the next plug. The power steering pump on the 85/86 is on the passenger side of the engine I am leaving it atached to the engine along with the AC compressor, belt adjuster and compressor bracket. If you want the power steering hoses just say so.. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.