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SR20DET for 620 vs 510


Jalj47

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I’m in the process of swapping my 73 620 with a s13 SR20, someone is trying to selling me a swap kit from CXracing for a 510 and I was just wondering if the transmission and engine mounts would also fit the 620.

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You will need to fab metal mounts from motor to the rubber 620 mounts.

 

 

There is an old issue of Project Car Magazine that swapped an SR in to a 620. NA motor though. You could try searching for archives of that.

 

 

There is a member here(Redeye) that sells KA to 620 mounts. That is if you haven't already purchased the SR...

 

That's just some places to start.

 

 

You will need to be resourceful with a project like this.

 

 

 

 

 

Get to it.

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I built an SR swapped autocross 510, and if I had it to do over again, I'd strongly consider a KA. If you haven't bought an SR, here are very valid reasons for considering a KA24 on a purely functional level, especially in a 620. 

 

* Torque, until it comes into boost an SR is a 2.0L mouse. Once it hits boost though, hold on...

* Cheeper, obviously depending on your power goals or if you plan on turbo-ing it. In terms of control, there's lots to be said for a flat power curve.

* More parts out there new from a Nissan dealer and used at any pick and pull.

* Simpler mechanically and electronically. 

* Oh, and did I mention Torque.

 

Not trying to raze doubts, diss your vision, or confuse the matter, just something to consider.

 

Best of luck on your project.

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I built an SR swapped autocross 510, and if I had it to do over again, I'd strongly consider a KA. If you haven't bought an SR, here are very valid reasons for considering a KA24 on a purely functional level, especially in a 620. 

 

* Torque, until it comes into boost an SR is a 2.0L mouse. Once it hits boost though, hold on...

* Cheeper, obviously depending on your power goals or if you plan on turbo-ing it. In terms of control, there's lots to be said for a flat power curve.

* More parts out there new from a Nissan dealer and used at any pick and pull.

* Simpler mechanically and electronically. 

* Oh, and did I mention Torque.

 

Not trying to raze doubts, diss your vision, or confuse the matter, just something to consider.

 

Best of luck on your project.

I agree, the KA24e in my 620 is more than enough, torque is an understatement, very fast off the line and can spin my wheels 1-3, I don't even need to down shift from 5th to get around anyone, just put the pedal on the floor and feel your body get pulled back into the seat, hell ya she's plenty :thumbup:

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I make mounts that allow you to essentially bolt that SR into the 620. 

 

You still have to deal with the steering and the alternator needs to be moved to clear the idler arm.

 has about the crossmember for the transmission?

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Come on guys, the KA was imported into the States in huge numbers, and you can still get parts from a Nissan dealer. 

 

KA24e is in

1998-2005 Nissan xterra

1989–1990 Nissan 240sx
1990–1997 D21 Truck ("Hardbody")
1990-1995 Pathfinder
 

KA24DE is in

2000-2004 Xterra
1991-1998 240SX

2001-2004 Forester
 

KA24DE-A 

Nissan Altima 1993-1999 

 

 

Don't get me wrong though, the SR is a serious hunk of kick ass, when it hits boost. Just say'n for the money and torque, KA all the way.

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 has about the crossmember for the transmission?

 

If you read through the KA swap thread it shows pictures of slotting the mount. 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/39780-620-ka24-motor-mount-brackets/

 

The SR swap and KA swap are essentially the same other than the SR alternator hitting the idler arm for the steering, that will need to be relocated. You can use the alt bracket from a G20 to move it to the power steering pump location.

 

BEEBANI, a member here sells a slotted tube crossmember for mounting pretty much any transmission into a 620, if you wanted to go that route. 

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Sorry but most Ka24 out there probably need a rebuild after all the drifter boys beat them or TRUCK MOTORS ARE VERY different Blocks starter cams intake I am not going there again ! . Regarding SR20s I prefer because there supposed low miles and run really smooth and get way better mileage than a KA and really our cars are old and most people drive on weekends and don't use for work and believe me the SR20de NA in the last 510 ran strong ,So consider SR20de NA for a reasonable conversion smooth and dependable ,now where do get parts ? Feel free to ask questions S14na 1400 bucks here in LA/Oc areas.JhOeB14.jpg

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620 or 521 Also something to consider is that Ka or SR trans are stuck under cab on top of xmember for torsion bars so must remove motor and trans for a clutch job , I recently made tunnel removable remove seat to pull trans tail into cabin to allow clutch service , so there is a lot of pros and cons either way just my snags ect . Not easy 1 SR20 NA while available last made 2002 s15na is what these are .LW0SfwU.jpguBl3HAS.jpg

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I hate to sound like a d!ck, but I can't help but think if he needed to post here to get commonly available information (Google), the rest of the install is going to be a huge problem. I foresee another 620 chassis and SR20 being parted out in Bakersfield in the coming future. There's certainly no shortage of these "packages" for sale on facebook and craigslist. I think people don't do enough research or overestimating their abilities before jumping in. And those who do manage to actually get them running, so many I've seen are total hack jobs and sold for various reasons with text something like "runs great but needs tuning" or "extra block included."

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I hate to sound like a d!ck, but I can't help but think if he needed to post here to get commonly available information (Google), the rest of the install is going to be a huge problem. I foresee another 620 chassis and SR20 being parted out in Bakersfield in the coming future. There's certainly no shortage of these "packages" for sale on facebook and craigslist. I think people don't do enough research or overestimating their abilities before jumping in. And those who do manage to actually get them running, so many I've seen are total hack jobs and sold for various reasons with text something like "runs great but needs tuning" or "extra block included."

...yep, or you will see, "my lost and your gain" or lost interest....
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I did this...

 

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2gfQzGz.jpg

 

Welded a plate for the mount to bolt on to

6qyrFKU.jpg

 

7DIPY1c.jpg

 

Test fit

 

BGluDWE.jpg

 

psri9BF.jpg

 

Installed

 

wjIMkxN.jpg

 

 

Nice.

 

Looks like I should move crossmember design up on my list of things to do. How far back did the holes move? 

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Nice.

 

Looks like I should move crossmember design up on my list of things to do. How far back did the holes move?

 

About the same distance as if I were to slot it (I believe) I don't recall the exact distance....I'll have to measure next time I'm underneath to give you an accurate #, the nice thing about this setup is that I can remove both (the mount and cross member) by unbolting.

 

Would be awesome if you can recreate a mount, definitely!

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