Ebenezer scrooge Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Hi, i cant get any pressure to the slave cylinder. Ive tried to do the normal bleeding procedure,pumping the clutch pedal,hold,bleed,close,release. I have repeated this several times but it doesnt seem to get any pressure at all. And yes i have a bottle with brakefluid connected to the bleeder so it doesnt let any air into the system.Can someone give some hints? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Did you do a bench bleeding on the master? I went through that installing a new clutch master in my 521.... I tried vacuum bleeding, help from a friend and I couldn't get a pedal.... What worked for me was i made a small tube to connect where the hard line was installed..... I would push the pedal to the floor, then cover the line with my finger, release the pedal and I watched the master suck fluid in.... do that a couple times, then reconnect the hardline, then bleed normally and it should work..... 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 New ones from Nissan were over $80. If this is a replacement clutch master, there is also the possibility that it is no good or 'bad in the box'. The stuff they make today in China is scary bad quality. I did get a rebuild kit from Nissan years ago for my 620 clutch master. I think it was $12 and it even had the little rubber cover for the new bleeder nipple. I bet it's still on the truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 I 2nd bench bleeding. It’s too late to do a conventional bench bleed, but you can stuff a towel underneath the master to catch any fluid, then crack open the hard lines a few turns and slowly pump the clutch until you get fluid seeping out of the threads. Now tighten them back up and bleed as normal. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Bench bleed. Echo. Echo. Echo. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 If this is a new master...push rod length could be wrong too. 2 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Something has to be wrong with the replacement unit as Mike mentioned, I just did one yesterday on a 521 with KA and was simple and quick. And also what gato said, make sure it has the correct size push rod. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 The clutch masters are almost universal. What you can do is check that your pedal to push rod has a couple of mm or 1/16" of play. Push down on pedal with thumb. You should have this small clearance before it gets firm. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Almost, key word. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Well the rebuild kit for the 620 clutch master also repairs the 240/260/280z 610/710 B210 810 A10 S10 So they must be same 5/8" inside. Even the KA uses a 5/8" master though it mounts differently. The PL 510 is also 5/8" so I would imagine a 620 master would replace it. The slave rebuild kit also fits the above vehicles and the 280zx so they are basically the same 3/4" diameter. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 I had this happen on a new cylinder I put my thumb or finger over the hole while soemone pumped the pedal. Then it sucked fluid then I bleed it as mentioned like you with a clear hose over the blled screw in bottle so one cando thi by himself and not suck bubble/air back in system. 2 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 I'm using the 620 MC for the KA swap, works just fine, I just got done bleeding HOGIE'S 521 MC for his KA swap also works fine, it's probably a defective unit or wrong size shaft in his. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 I was just having this issue. It turned out to be the hardline sprung a leak. It was small at first and it took a while to spray enough brake fluid from the leak to pinpoint it. 2 Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 maaan, you know what happened to me one time after letting my truck sit for a while? came back from sea and I had the same problem as you. bled the bitch, and other shit... turned out the piston in the slave was seized! maybe youre having that problem as well? 2 Quote Link to comment
Ebenezer scrooge Posted April 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Still struggling with the pressure, there were one day when i had managed to build some pressure after i "bench bleeded" the master cylinder but when i opened the bleeder the pressure was gone...Anyway the noticed the clutch lever and the pin from the slavecylinder arent in line? If you check these images you will notice that this aint looking symmetric at all. Has the lever from the clutch gone in wrong position or something? I tried pulling it and it seems like it pushes the clutchplate but i mean aint the lever supposed to be more "inside" into the gearbox? Do i need to unmount the gearbox and check or is there any chance i can put it back in place from the outside? 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 That isn't right. The clutch arm has a round dent in it that sits on a pivot ball. Peel the dust boot off and look in behind the clutch arm. It should clip onto it. If it's out this far it may have un-clipped from the release bearing collar too. 3 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 This looks like new parts being assembled. Is the clutch arm correct for the transmission? 2 Quote Link to comment
Ebenezer scrooge Posted April 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 The parts are stock, pulled the dust cover off and i noticed that the fork was unclipped from the pivot ball. Seems like im not capable of to put it back in place from the dust boot hole so it seems like the gearbox needs to be removed so i can put the fork back in place... :sneaky: 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 This is the problem...the far end of the fork clips onto the back of the release bearing collar. Once that pops out it would be very hard to clip back on with only the dust boot hole to work through. I would try it though. Get some light in there and it should go on if you can see what you're doing, but like threading a needle at arms length. 2 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Ya, this is a job for a very patient and persistent person, wow, I would give it a go, doesn't hurt to try and hey, you might just get lucky and snap it back in place on the first try! Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 ok I was gonna mention the other time this happened to me with my z32. in which i: deleted the long long hard line with a ss hose, rebuilt both master and slave, then replaced both master and slave with new. I finally dropped the trans and saw that the stamped clutch fork had slipped off the throwout bearing. I replaced throwout bearing and clutch fork with that from a z33 (solid, cast). not saying you need to make such an upgrade, but definitely look inside as everyone mentioned. a trans drop should only take you a few hours IF you cant see within from the hole 2 Quote Link to comment
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