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that is your volt reg in the photo

 

Be honest if this had a EI distributor I thinkyour the car would have a Internal volt reg alternator as the update would usually be both.

 

Be helpful if we know the type of car and motor and year ect.... Wasn't a B210 still a point vehicle???????

 

also I notice this Voltreg looks kinda new. I had bad results with the Napa/Echlin brand and maybe other users( Made in the USA mecnical Voltregs) The made in Japan mechanicals are better.

 

 

Does coil get HOT when this runs?.

 

You use your volt meter yet?

 

I think Power comes from the  Battery to the fuse box then the key switch to the ignitions + side coil. Not thru the volt regulator.

 

 

how you ck for spark?  use the center coil wire and place near ground and try to start?

 

 

 

anwser all these ? or this will be a 20page fix that never happens

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That looks like the voltage regulator for the alternator.  Are there some wires with the same colors as the wires going to the alternator?   If yes, it has very little to do with the ignition circuit. 

 

Ignition circuits are all pretty simple.  12 volts is applied to the positive side of a coil by a key, and the coil is connected to ground by a switch.  That switch is controlled by the engine mechanically, or by a computer in more modern cars.  

 

I would suggest you need to get an electrical diagram for your car.  Then trace how the power gets from the positive battery post to the coil.  the electrical diagram will help you with this.  It will show the colors of the wires from the battery to the coil.

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It is electronic ignition i promise.

 

coil gets pretty hot.

 

 

Good to know that it is a volt regulator. I will probably upgrade the alternator sometime then I can take it out.

 

Anyway, I figured out the problem. The alternator was not charging, and I saw a black wire coming out of the same wire sleeve the black alternator ground went into. it looked like it had broken off, so I grounded it. Turns out the engine will only run when its not grounded.

 

The alternator is now not charging but the car is running. I have to find a volt metre to see whats wrong with the alternator i guess. could be the regulator.

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still a lot of confussion

 

S was this a point car you converted to EI or was this stock. If a point coil is not there without a ballast resistor they get hot.  If this was a EI car then it has a EI coil and should not get hot.

 

as for the aalternaotr specs I don't know your year ect but it does have a Volt reg . So I assumed it was a pint ignition car. Be honest a car should still run eve with a bad volt reg for a little bit and not creat a NO SPARK condition.

 

but if yo found the proplemten you have it and you can get the alt checkd out

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Yeah I converted it to EI. The coil gets warm but just from the radiant heat of the engine mostly I think not super hot. 

 

Car is running great batterys just not charging now.

 

Anyone got any speculations on what this black wire I've got could be? any wire that would kill the ignition if it was grounded, but that the car doesn't need to run?

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Usually there is a thick Black ground wire to the case of the alternator. The output from the alternator is on a special terminal  that is insulated from the case. And then there is a two wire plastic plug.

 

Make sure the voltage regulator is securely grounded to the fender with screws.

 

Make sure there is a ground ground wire from the engine block to the car body.

 

 

When you get in and turn the ignition key to ON does the red charge light in the dash come on????

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the charge light does not seem to be coming on.

 

Yah its a made in usa one i figured i will probably just get an alternator with an internal one sometime.

 

also a follow up question: does anyone know where to get a decently cheap rpm sensing switch so i could hook up a shift light? don't wanna break it again hoho

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I NEVER had a shift light or tach. Seems to work for me not having one on 2 Mikunis solex powered cars,, Kinda like waiting for the oil light to come on before I ck the oil.

I got a Chrome Muffler vid? I need to see that one

 

As for the Pertronix? Or EI conversion. Hes too vague in all his proplem for fact finding.Or never really answer the questions I ask. 30deg timming ect...... hard to read what to to troouble shoot 1st. Hes operaion of the timming light or ,How to ck spark ect....

 

No spark could be he dont have a ballast or wrong coil(moduel going bad) or those bad Volt Regs I hate.  Or combonation of all.A photo of everything might help but I gave up onthis thread yesterday.

Think I would buy a new volt reg 1st than worry about a shift light . Maybe even a volt meter sinced one hasnt been used yet. He hasnt told the us the volt reading at Battery Off and running at idle and say at 2Krpm. I can give a btter reading of whats wrong. But I dont think the alternator is bad but a 5min voltreading would help.

 

 

Just a wild guess I bet that black wire is related to the dist ground as this was a point ignition car. But one would have to ohm out soem wires . OR related  when a volt reg goes bad the car dont shut off. but oppisite as he says when blk wire grond car shuts off. Like the distrbutor stopped swiching.(like grounding out a  coil. It will never spark)

 

Just see if center coil wiresparks with wire Open then blk wire grounded. That would be a start.  see if that black wire goes intothe voltreg also in a round about way a diagram might help on this or ohm meter

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driving on a dirt road in the middle of nowhere going around a corner at 5500 rpm, hit a bump back wheels went in the air mustve gone to 6200 or so and the coil lost all power

 

 

also a follow up question: does anyone know where to get a decently cheap rpm sensing switch so i could hook up a shift light? don't wanna break it again hoho

The A14 (77mm stroke) has a red line of 7,900 RPM you are NEVER going to blow it up so don't wory about it.

 

 

the charge light does not seem to be coming on.

Well it should so make sure the plastic plug in the back of the alternator is pushed in and secure. The next thing is the voltage regulator.

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Alternators die. Doesn't explain what happened on the road though. I'm curious about what's behind this. Did you use the Pertronix el conversion?

No I just used  a cheap remote ignitor distributor, a GM ignition module and a 280zx coil.

 

I think it must have been a coincidence that the car died as soon as I noticed that it was over 6000 rpm, and that it just when this wire happened to fall off of where it was and ground and shut the ignition off. The alternator dying must have been coincidence too I guess because the wire seems not to have anything to do with it. It was a pretty shitty road it probably shook some stuff loose. 

 

As for the Pertronix? Or EI conversion. Hes too vague in all his proplem for fact finding.Or never really answer the questions I ask. 30deg timming ect...... hard to read what to to troouble shoot 1st. Hes operaion of the timming light or ,How to ck spark ect....

 

I am sorry my friend I really don't know what I'm doing hoho.

 

The only reason I think of a shift light is I see them on rally cars in rally videos. I don't really know how to drive so I figure I'll take any help I can get eh.

 

 The A14 (77mm stroke) has a red line of 7,900 RPM you are NEVER going to blow it up so don't wory about it.

cool yah thats the only reason I would want a shift light. I can gauge probably 300 rpm in either direction of 6000 as long as going that far over won't blow it up.

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