banzai510(hainz) Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 that is your volt reg in the photo Be honest if this had a EI distributor I thinkyour the car would have a Internal volt reg alternator as the update would usually be both. Be helpful if we know the type of car and motor and year ect.... Wasn't a B210 still a point vehicle??????? also I notice this Voltreg looks kinda new. I had bad results with the Napa/Echlin brand and maybe other users( Made in the USA mecnical Voltregs) The made in Japan mechanicals are better. Does coil get HOT when this runs?. You use your volt meter yet? I think Power comes from the Battery to the fuse box then the key switch to the ignitions + side coil. Not thru the volt regulator. how you ck for spark? use the center coil wire and place near ground and try to start? anwser all these ? or this will be a 20page fix that never happens 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 That looks like the voltage regulator for the alternator. Are there some wires with the same colors as the wires going to the alternator? If yes, it has very little to do with the ignition circuit. Ignition circuits are all pretty simple. 12 volts is applied to the positive side of a coil by a key, and the coil is connected to ground by a switch. That switch is controlled by the engine mechanically, or by a computer in more modern cars. I would suggest you need to get an electrical diagram for your car. Then trace how the power gets from the positive battery post to the coil. the electrical diagram will help you with this. It will show the colors of the wires from the battery to the coil. Quote Link to comment
Dirtyowlnumber4 Posted April 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 It is electronic ignition i promise. coil gets pretty hot. Good to know that it is a volt regulator. I will probably upgrade the alternator sometime then I can take it out. Anyway, I figured out the problem. The alternator was not charging, and I saw a black wire coming out of the same wire sleeve the black alternator ground went into. it looked like it had broken off, so I grounded it. Turns out the engine will only run when its not grounded. The alternator is now not charging but the car is running. I have to find a volt metre to see whats wrong with the alternator i guess. could be the regulator. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 still a lot of confussion S was this a point car you converted to EI or was this stock. If a point coil is not there without a ballast resistor they get hot. If this was a EI car then it has a EI coil and should not get hot. as for the aalternaotr specs I don't know your year ect but it does have a Volt reg . So I assumed it was a pint ignition car. Be honest a car should still run eve with a bad volt reg for a little bit and not creat a NO SPARK condition. but if yo found the proplemten you have it and you can get the alt checkd out Quote Link to comment
Dirtyowlnumber4 Posted April 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 Yeah I converted it to EI. The coil gets warm but just from the radiant heat of the engine mostly I think not super hot. Car is running great batterys just not charging now. Anyone got any speculations on what this black wire I've got could be? any wire that would kill the ignition if it was grounded, but that the car doesn't need to run? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 Usually there is a thick Black ground wire to the case of the alternator. The output from the alternator is on a special terminal that is insulated from the case. And then there is a two wire plastic plug. Make sure the voltage regulator is securely grounded to the fender with screws. Make sure there is a ground ground wire from the engine block to the car body. When you get in and turn the ignition key to ON does the red charge light in the dash come on???? Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 D Juax the list of Crap you carry in your car is what is refereed to as a "rape kit" if you get pulled over. I carry the same crap in all my vehicles. I always feel sorry for the folks that this gets pinned on, they are just driving ancient turds like myself. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 Like I said before if that a USAmade Volt reg ZI would maybe swap another in there Quote Link to comment
Dirtyowlnumber4 Posted April 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 the charge light does not seem to be coming on. Yah its a made in usa one i figured i will probably just get an alternator with an internal one sometime. also a follow up question: does anyone know where to get a decently cheap rpm sensing switch so i could hook up a shift light? don't wanna break it again hoho Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 shift light?YOu got to be kidding me!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 shift light?YOu got to be kidding me!!!!!!!!!!! Where is the link to your shift light installation video Hainz? I seem to only find the chrome muffler tip video. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 Alternators die. Doesn't explain what happened on the road though. I'm curious about what's behind this. Did you use the Pertronix el conversion? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 I NEVER had a shift light or tach. Seems to work for me not having one on 2 Mikunis solex powered cars,, Kinda like waiting for the oil light to come on before I ck the oil. I got a Chrome Muffler vid? I need to see that one As for the Pertronix? Or EI conversion. Hes too vague in all his proplem for fact finding.Or never really answer the questions I ask. 30deg timming ect...... hard to read what to to troouble shoot 1st. Hes operaion of the timming light or ,How to ck spark ect.... No spark could be he dont have a ballast or wrong coil(moduel going bad) or those bad Volt Regs I hate. Or combonation of all.A photo of everything might help but I gave up onthis thread yesterday. Think I would buy a new volt reg 1st than worry about a shift light . Maybe even a volt meter sinced one hasnt been used yet. He hasnt told the us the volt reading at Battery Off and running at idle and say at 2Krpm. I can give a btter reading of whats wrong. But I dont think the alternator is bad but a 5min voltreading would help. Just a wild guess I bet that black wire is related to the dist ground as this was a point ignition car. But one would have to ohm out soem wires . OR related when a volt reg goes bad the car dont shut off. but oppisite as he says when blk wire grond car shuts off. Like the distrbutor stopped swiching.(like grounding out a coil. It will never spark) Just see if center coil wiresparks with wire Open then blk wire grounded. That would be a start. see if that black wire goes intothe voltreg also in a round about way a diagram might help on this or ohm meter Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 Shift light?Lol, these things are soooooo anoying. My S10 has one, need to disable that...... They always come on at the wrong time really. They make you go "oh no red light no oil!" Followed by "stupid shift light!?!!!" Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 If you disconnect the flux capacitor, that light won't come on anymore. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 driving on a dirt road in the middle of nowhere going around a corner at 5500 rpm, hit a bump back wheels went in the air mustve gone to 6200 or so and the coil lost all power also a follow up question: does anyone know where to get a decently cheap rpm sensing switch so i could hook up a shift light? don't wanna break it again hoho The A14 (77mm stroke) has a red line of 7,900 RPM you are NEVER going to blow it up so don't wory about it. the charge light does not seem to be coming on. Well it should so make sure the plastic plug in the back of the alternator is pushed in and secure. The next thing is the voltage regulator. Quote Link to comment
Dirtyowlnumber4 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Alternators die. Doesn't explain what happened on the road though. I'm curious about what's behind this. Did you use the Pertronix el conversion? No I just used a cheap remote ignitor distributor, a GM ignition module and a 280zx coil. I think it must have been a coincidence that the car died as soon as I noticed that it was over 6000 rpm, and that it just when this wire happened to fall off of where it was and ground and shut the ignition off. The alternator dying must have been coincidence too I guess because the wire seems not to have anything to do with it. It was a pretty shitty road it probably shook some stuff loose. As for the Pertronix? Or EI conversion. Hes too vague in all his proplem for fact finding.Or never really answer the questions I ask. 30deg timming ect...... hard to read what to to troouble shoot 1st. Hes operaion of the timming light or ,How to ck spark ect.... I am sorry my friend I really don't know what I'm doing hoho. The only reason I think of a shift light is I see them on rally cars in rally videos. I don't really know how to drive so I figure I'll take any help I can get eh. The A14 (77mm stroke) has a red line of 7,900 RPM you are NEVER going to blow it up so don't wory about it. cool yah thats the only reason I would want a shift light. I can gauge probably 300 rpm in either direction of 6000 as long as going that far over won't blow it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dirtyowlnumber4 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Took it on a 100 mile drive today everything was fine but after the drive the battery was done. I guess the ignition would drain it as you drive along eh. I will try to find a volt meter to see if the battery is bad or the alternator Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Charge battery, 12.x volts, start car. If volt meter on terminals reads 11.x volts then alternator not working, if reads 14.3 or something then alternator works. Quote Link to comment
Dirtyowlnumber4 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 All right ill try it thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 If the alternator does not charge the battery, it will run out. It's not the battery's fault. All it needs is re-charging. Quote Link to comment
Dirtyowlnumber4 Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 I got a new alternator and volt regulator on it seems to work fine but the volt regulator keeps catching on fire. It is the same type of alternator im not sure why, Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Short maybe or too loose Quote Link to comment
Roadster-ka Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Catching on fire doesn't sound like it's working fine! Quote Link to comment
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