Spiff Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 I noticed as I was putting this engine back together that the chain tensioner sat pretty far out and was a bit worn. Furthermore when I went to put the oil pump back in I just couldn't get the shaft tang to line up with the 11:25 position without turning the crank slightly forward. So now my cam is at TDC, the shaft is correct but my timing mark is way retarded! Think a new timing kit will solve it? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 I cant open fotos its close to 11/28 anways sounds like you have it correct. You time the head to the crank Zero first. then you install the distributor shaft. So this mean you put the chain on correct first before worring about the distributor timming as it has nothing to do with the cam timming marks in the head. watch my vidio on Yoututbe or Vemio.com just put in Hainz L series. You have a Z seriesmotor I think but should be very close to a L series most Made in Japan timming Kits will have a brite link that goes on the lower chain dimple and the upper chain dimple 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 I have a vid too. I always replace the timing kits just because, unless they are brand new. 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Go back to basics, time the crank at TDC, install the shaft so it looks like the picture (it's perfect there.) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Ignition timing is unrelated to cam timing and can be set independent of each other. Set the ignition timing with a timing light. If you can set it, forget it. There is no cam thrust plate to set the cam timing to on the Z series even though the cam sprockets do have notches in the back. If you look through the top hole in the cam sprocket, between the two rocker towers there is a very faint vertical casting line in the aluminum. I use this as the mark and adjust the cam to get the Vee mark under or slightly to the right of it as viewed from the front. From the factory the cam should be on the #2 setting. If in doubt try #3 and if the performance or mileage suffers go back to #2. Quote Link to comment
Spiff Posted April 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 How about now? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 If you have never had a timing chain or cam sprocket off before, NOTE that the tensioner must be prevented from falling out. This will save you 5-6 hours of work and more parts to correct. If you don't know how find out. Above....For ignition 11:28, the notch in the pulley must be on the 0 on the timing scale. Looks like it's overshot by 1/2 " Above...For checking chain stretch you must set the TDC much more carefully. Turn to TDC only in a clockwise direction and stop. If you overshoot back up at least 1/4 turn and try again, never back up to set. Turning only in a clockwise direction will keep ALL the chain slack on the tensioner side. Then the TWO should be at the top 12 o'clock. Each one of those pins in the chain is 18 degrees apart. If that 2 looks like it is one (or more) pins out try moving the sprocket one tooth and check again. The 2 should be closer to 12 o'clock or aligned with the vertical casting mark seen through the hole in the sprocket. If only slightly out switch the sprocket to the #3 and check. Going from #2 to #3 will remove about 4 degrees of slack from the chain. Below is the Z head with the cam sprocket removed. You can just make out this vertical casting mark. Below is with the cam sprocket installed. You can see the blurry V or U mark on the back of the sprocket is just barely to the right of the casting mark. The manuals for the Z series do not describe the proper setting or checking of cam timing so I go with this. . 1 Quote Link to comment
Spiff Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Oh yeah, forgot about that notch. So here is the cam sprocket and oil shaft position when the crank pulley mark is at 0 position, chain slack on tensioner side. Was difficult to get a proper shot of the notch so there are several. Appears to be slightly to the left of the marking? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 I forgot to mention when I check the mechanical timming make sure to rotate the cam in a clockwise direction as it running. going backwards gives a false reading. I loosely place the front cover back on and put dial the crank up to Zero then ck the cam timming. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 This one looks good. This one looks off to the left. This is because the L series is checked with the cam thrust plate directly behind the V in the sprocket. On the Z series it's farther away and paralax can cause problems if the camera is off center. The top picture looks centered... call it good. Quote Link to comment
Spiff Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Great! Yeah it was hard to get a decent shot but it looks centered so I'll call it good and move on. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 I'd leave it. Quote Link to comment
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