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620 tension rod bushing comparison


Drummerboy4as

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In the process of rebuilding my front suspension I've hit a bit of an obstacle with the TC rod bushings. I've been trying to stick with rubber bushings because I don't really feel like snapping a rod, problem is no one seems to make a replacement for the 620. So I bought some 720 rubber bushings but the ID is a bit too big. I bought some Moog poly bushings and drilled 6 holes in the perimeter but they still seem quite stiff. So here's some pics so y'all can help me decide.

 

The whole gang. Top to bottom: 720 rubber bushing, 720 bushing cut in half, Moog poly bushing with holes, OG bushing

OzBhLQR.jpg

 

720 bushing on strut rod (quite a gap)

1sZ2Z7l.jpg

 

Poly bushing on rod (toite like a tiger)

9hoTtjK.jpg

 

Squeeze test: OG

NPCSKMc.jpg

720 rubber

y2tvxru.jpg

Poly

xPvZV8w.jpg

 

Clearly the poly is quite a bit stiffer, but with the holes is it still too stiff?

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The tension rod needs to swing up and down with the lower control arm which will, or should, pinch the bushing rather than bending around the bushing. At the same time the bushing must be resilient enough to not allow the tension rod to move forward or back, but mostly back, like bumping a curb or when the brakes are jammed on. It also provides some noise and vibration isolation.

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On a lowered truck, you can go with a pretty hard material as wheel travel is already limited.  The greater the wheel travel, the softer you want the material to be.  Or if its really hard, you want it radiused like the washer.  They're easy to shape when they're frozen.   :thumbup:

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  • 3 years later...
23 hours ago, Jiman2099 said:

Any ideas on the part number of this moog poly bushing? 

 

Don't use poly on that. It has to be compliant or flexible like real rubber. Poly does not compress enough so the tension rod bends around it and eventually metal fatigue can cause it to snap. The wheel now is not triangulated and the lower control arm swings to the rear when the brakes are applied. That's to be avoided.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t261/Turbosidosis/Datsun/DatsunTCbroke1.jpg

 

 

 

fmP1NuV.jpg

 

You might try drilling the poly to allow it to compress but I hate the stuff and it has no place on the street. It's intended for off road and racing where it actually get regular inspections, maintenance and replacement before becoming a problem. Get rubber ones.

 

 

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I replaced my King Pins, Control Arms and all the bushings... steering components... $900 worth of parts.

 

After a lot of chasing my tail, I found out Nissan stocks cello bags of ten bushings for the torsion bars. The part number is for a Sentra or something that requires ten.  I looked at my thread on all the work I did. I have a link for the sway bar bushings but not the torsion bar ones. I will have to look in my file for the receipts. 

 

This question has been ask before and they are available from the dealer. I did the work a couple years ago, I don't see anything disintegrating yet! See what I can come up with.

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On 12/1/2021 at 8:33 PM, datzenmike said:

56127-25660  or

56112-09400 bushing up to '77. Need 8 I think

 

54481-18000 '78 and '78 bushing need 4

The 56127 & 56112 #'s change up to 56112-W5000 and is still available from Nissan at about $8.00 each.

 

54418-18000 comes back as NLA

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Does this guidance to avoid “Poly” apply also to stabilizer end link/bushing? If so, I will avoid using the Moog K700539 kit.
 

MOOG K700539 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers}  Polyurethane Bushings  Info     One of our most popular parts
Front
 
 
 
<
Part image
>
$12.03  
 

 

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  • 8 months later...

Check again carefully Matt. The top picture is '80-'82 and for the most part the same for 2 and 4wd suspensions and includes tension rods. The bottom picture is for '83 and on and again is more or less the same for 2 and 4wd and without tension rods. 

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