Drummerboy4as Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 In the process of rebuilding my front suspension I've hit a bit of an obstacle with the TC rod bushings. I've been trying to stick with rubber bushings because I don't really feel like snapping a rod, problem is no one seems to make a replacement for the 620. So I bought some 720 rubber bushings but the ID is a bit too big. I bought some Moog poly bushings and drilled 6 holes in the perimeter but they still seem quite stiff. So here's some pics so y'all can help me decide. The whole gang. Top to bottom: 720 rubber bushing, 720 bushing cut in half, Moog poly bushing with holes, OG bushing 720 bushing on strut rod (quite a gap) Poly bushing on rod (toite like a tiger) Squeeze test: OG 720 rubber Poly Clearly the poly is quite a bit stiffer, but with the holes is it still too stiff? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 I think that will be alright. It's mostly compression you need to worry about. The bad poly ones are so hard you might as well turn them out of solid aluminum. 1 Quote Link to comment
Drummerboy4as Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 I was hoping you’d respond since it’s usually you I see saying not to use poly lol if you give it the ok I’m comfortable going with the drilled poly. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 The tension rod needs to swing up and down with the lower control arm which will, or should, pinch the bushing rather than bending around the bushing. At the same time the bushing must be resilient enough to not allow the tension rod to move forward or back, but mostly back, like bumping a curb or when the brakes are jammed on. It also provides some noise and vibration isolation. 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 Good job, looks like the cupped washer(s) is/are installed backwards. Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 On a lowered truck, you can go with a pretty hard material as wheel travel is already limited. The greater the wheel travel, the softer you want the material to be. Or if its really hard, you want it radiused like the washer. They're easy to shape when they're frozen. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
Drummerboy4as Posted April 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 Yeah I pretty much have zero suspension travel at it is :D Quote Link to comment
Jiman2099 Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 Any ideas on the part number of this moog poly bushing? Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted November 30, 2021 Report Share Posted November 30, 2021 Japanese Rubber Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 30, 2021 Report Share Posted November 30, 2021 23 hours ago, Jiman2099 said: Any ideas on the part number of this moog poly bushing? Don't use poly on that. It has to be compliant or flexible like real rubber. Poly does not compress enough so the tension rod bends around it and eventually metal fatigue can cause it to snap. The wheel now is not triangulated and the lower control arm swings to the rear when the brakes are applied. That's to be avoided. http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t261/Turbosidosis/Datsun/DatsunTCbroke1.jpg You might try drilling the poly to allow it to compress but I hate the stuff and it has no place on the street. It's intended for off road and racing where it actually get regular inspections, maintenance and replacement before becoming a problem. Get rubber ones. Quote Link to comment
Figbuck Posted December 2, 2021 Report Share Posted December 2, 2021 I replaced my King Pins, Control Arms and all the bushings... steering components... $900 worth of parts. After a lot of chasing my tail, I found out Nissan stocks cello bags of ten bushings for the torsion bars. The part number is for a Sentra or something that requires ten. I looked at my thread on all the work I did. I have a link for the sway bar bushings but not the torsion bar ones. I will have to look in my file for the receipts. This question has been ask before and they are available from the dealer. I did the work a couple years ago, I don't see anything disintegrating yet! See what I can come up with. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 2, 2021 Report Share Posted December 2, 2021 56127-25660 or 56112-09400 bushing up to '77. Need 8 I think 54481-18000 '78 and '78 bushing need 4 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 On 12/1/2021 at 8:33 PM, datzenmike said: 56127-25660 or 56112-09400 bushing up to '77. Need 8 I think 54481-18000 '78 and '78 bushing need 4 The 56127 & 56112 #'s change up to 56112-W5000 and is still available from Nissan at about $8.00 each. 54418-18000 comes back as NLA Quote Link to comment
stingraylx1 Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 Does this guidance to avoid “Poly” apply also to stabilizer end link/bushing? If so, I will avoid using the Moog K700539 kit. MOOG K700539 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Polyurethane Bushings Info Front $12.03 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 No. I think the sway bar is about the only place it should be used and have said so in the past. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted August 31, 2022 Report Share Posted August 31, 2022 (edited) I have poly on mine for over 13 years.Don't believe everything you hear.Rubber is not good.I have over a 100,000 miles on my poly and it drives great.Just dirt on them,but look new. Edited August 31, 2022 by Thomas Perkins Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 31, 2022 Report Share Posted August 31, 2022 The '83 and up are simply called lower arm assembly. It's not under tension but more like compression. Yours are behind the front wheels. Tension rods are to the front. Glad you're happy with them. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 1, 2022 Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 Looks like the 4wd, which isn't the same design... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 1, 2022 Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 2 and 4wd have almost identical design lower arm assy after '83. All earlier trucks and Datsun cars have tension rods to the front. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 1, 2022 Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 Not really, they don't... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 1, 2022 Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 Check again carefully Matt. The top picture is '80-'82 and for the most part the same for 2 and 4wd suspensions and includes tension rods. The bottom picture is for '83 and on and again is more or less the same for 2 and 4wd and without tension rods. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 1, 2022 Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 (edited) Well...we'll see Edited September 1, 2022 by thisismatt Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.