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Weber running too lean, can’t adjust enough?


Speedymaru

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As mentioned earlier, the screw you are adjusting is only for idle mixture.  While the lid is off, read the two jets in the bottom of the carb.  One side (smaller throttle plate side) is the primary and will likely be something like a 150.  The secondary side maybe a 160?  Common trick is this:  if you are at a 150/160, then buy a 155, 165, 170.  Start by going up 5 on each and see how it improves.  Of course this is after you make sure you plugged all the vacuum holes in the intake manifold - its easy to leave one open and you'll be sucking clean air instead of metered air.  

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I got the time to do it today. I went ahead and cleaned all the jets and air correctors. I found that none of them were plugged, at least that I could see. However I did find a chunk of gasket blocking off most of the passage on the secondary side. I’m not sure what the tube is called. I also found that the bowl was pretty dirty. I went ahead and cleaned that out too. I put it all back together after removing the small sliver of gasket. Started it back up and tried to adjust the fuel air screw and was not able to get it to drop in rpm when backing it out again. It does seem to be running a bit better though. I took note of the jet sizes. The primary main jet is 135 and the secondary is 140. Is this the problem?

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All those other replies just now came through for some reason. I believe I have the 1 piece adapter. I had an issue with a vacuum leak in the past and had to make a new gasket for it. I need to pick up another can of carb cleaner or practice the propane tip to double check that there’s no vacuum leak

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Also, how much oil should I expect to come out of the hole once I remove it?

 

I’m not sure if I’m calling it the right thing. Just for clarification, it’s the “plug” that screws into the left side of the block, near the starter. I think this is the link for the correct part: https://m.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/temperature-switch/duralast-temperature-switch/nissandatsun/620/129163_520149_8456?location=

 

Any info or clarification is appreciated

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Good place to start...

 

As mentioned earlier, the screw you are adjusting is only for idle mixture.  While the lid is off, read the two jets in the bottom of the carb.  One side (smaller throttle plate side) is the primary and will likely be something like a 150.  The secondary side maybe a 160?  Common trick is this:  if you are at a 150/160, then buy a 155, 165, 170.  Start by going up 5 on each and see how it improves.  Of course this is after you make sure you plugged all the vacuum holes in the intake manifold - its easy to leave one open and you'll be sucking clean air instead of metered air.  

 

Oil sender will maybe dribble a drop or two. If the engine is off that is. :lol: Replace it, they're about $8 at auto supply store. Make sure it's for a Datsun they use BPTS thread. not NPT

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Alright sounds good. Thank you very much.

 

I’ve lost about half a quart in a couple days. And that’s driving it ~30 miles a day. I called autozone and that part that I showed the link for should arrive tomorrow morning. Not sure how to check if it’s BPTS or NPT though. It says it’s a Datsun specific part, but we all know how reliable parts stores are.

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1/8 NPT is 28 threads per inch

 

1/8 BSPT is 27 threads per inch

 

If you get the sender threaded into the block with more than one thread, it's BSPT.

 

NPT will not thread in far enough to hold. You'll know right away.

 

Use some sealer on the threads, or at the very least, some teflon tape but make sure not to cover the hole to the sender with either sealant or tape. Don't get any inside the hole of the block either as it could float around your oiling system and cause problems.

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Dude that LINK  is a tempature sensor for the stat housing outflow to radiator.

 

you need oil pressure switch. that plugs into the phole by the oil filter

 

 

half a quart is a lot  for a couple days usually a shot motor or you have a pressureizing issue to cause huge oil consumption. PVC crank case vent routed correctly.

 

that oil pressure sensor is made for a wire to hook up to it for the light to go out. but there is a diaphrame in there which can crack and cause a loss of oil. As this has happen to me to make it look like a oilpan leak. it would drain go dow the side then rought to the back to look like oilpan gasket was bad

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The dealers had you show proof of using 1 qt per 1000 miles to open a warranty claim of high oil consumption, it's normal to throw out a qt every 3k when it is due to be changed because of fuel dilution. One qt every 60 miles is the record I think, congratulations. When you change your block will be a good time to reseal your carb adapter. You should have the L Motor God build something up for you.

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Okay, so this is the part I need? https://m.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-pressure-switch/duralast-oil-pressure-switch/nissandatsun/620-pickup/123844_757608_8537?location=

 

I don’t think there’s anything majorly wrong with the motor. The oil is definitely coming from the sending unit.

Yup... and it says it has the correct bspt threads so it should thread in properly...

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Well I went ahead and ordered 150 and 160 main jets, and I finally got them delivered and installed. Truck is running great now! Thank you all very much. Only problem is after running it for a bit, I decided I wanted to pull a plug to check the color, and my socket slipped and I broke the ceramic part of my plug. So I’ll be picking a new one up and I should be good! Thank you all

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Good read here on the Weber 32/36 dgv carb. I just put one on my rebuilt L16 in my Goon. It is running and idleing.it has some leaking at the pump aera. I believe I bought a couple of rebuild kits cause I got two carbs off a 240 Z way way back in the mid early 90's. I haven't done anything to the carbs ,just bolted one on the Goon to see what would happen. I will check out the Pierce site and get her tight end up.

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