distributorguy Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 As mentioned earlier, the screw you are adjusting is only for idle mixture. While the lid is off, read the two jets in the bottom of the carb. One side (smaller throttle plate side) is the primary and will likely be something like a 150. The secondary side maybe a 160? Common trick is this: if you are at a 150/160, then buy a 155, 165, 170. Start by going up 5 on each and see how it improves. Of course this is after you make sure you plugged all the vacuum holes in the intake manifold - its easy to leave one open and you'll be sucking clean air instead of metered air. 2 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted April 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2018 I got the time to do it today. I went ahead and cleaned all the jets and air correctors. I found that none of them were plugged, at least that I could see. However I did find a chunk of gasket blocking off most of the passage on the secondary side. I’m not sure what the tube is called. I also found that the bowl was pretty dirty. I went ahead and cleaned that out too. I put it all back together after removing the small sliver of gasket. Started it back up and tried to adjust the fuel air screw and was not able to get it to drop in rpm when backing it out again. It does seem to be running a bit better though. I took note of the jet sizes. The primary main jet is 135 and the secondary is 140. Is this the problem? 1 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted April 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2018 All those other replies just now came through for some reason. I believe I have the 1 piece adapter. I had an issue with a vacuum leak in the past and had to make a new gasket for it. I need to pick up another can of carb cleaner or practice the propane tip to double check that there’s no vacuum leak 1 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 You can likely hear the vac leak you have. I bet its big. What is that carb jetted for? A 1275 MG? Those jets are tiny!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
noramost Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 use a 3' piece of 5/16 vacuum hose, hold 1 end to your ear and move the other around to find the leak 1 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Will do. What jets would you recommend me switching to? Also, my oil temp sensor just started leaking oil. Will just replacing it fix this? I don’t have another vehicle to drive so I’m trying to do things in between times that I don’t have to drive. 1 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Also, how much oil should I expect to come out of the hole once I remove it? I’m not sure if I’m calling it the right thing. Just for clarification, it’s the “plug” that screws into the left side of the block, near the starter. I think this is the link for the correct part: https://m.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/temperature-switch/duralast-temperature-switch/nissandatsun/620/129163_520149_8456?location= Any info or clarification is appreciated 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Good place to start... As mentioned earlier, the screw you are adjusting is only for idle mixture. While the lid is off, read the two jets in the bottom of the carb. One side (smaller throttle plate side) is the primary and will likely be something like a 150. The secondary side maybe a 160? Common trick is this: if you are at a 150/160, then buy a 155, 165, 170. Start by going up 5 on each and see how it improves. Of course this is after you make sure you plugged all the vacuum holes in the intake manifold - its easy to leave one open and you'll be sucking clean air instead of metered air. Oil sender will maybe dribble a drop or two. If the engine is off that is. :lol: Replace it, they're about $8 at auto supply store. Make sure it's for a Datsun they use BPTS thread. not NPT 1 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Alright sounds good. Thank you very much. I’ve lost about half a quart in a couple days. And that’s driving it ~30 miles a day. I called autozone and that part that I showed the link for should arrive tomorrow morning. Not sure how to check if it’s BPTS or NPT though. It says it’s a Datsun specific part, but we all know how reliable parts stores are. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 1/8 NPT is 28 threads per inch 1/8 BSPT is 27 threads per inch If you get the sender threaded into the block with more than one thread, it's BSPT. NPT will not thread in far enough to hold. You'll know right away. Use some sealer on the threads, or at the very least, some teflon tape but make sure not to cover the hole to the sender with either sealant or tape. Don't get any inside the hole of the block either as it could float around your oiling system and cause problems. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Dude that LINK is a tempature sensor for the stat housing outflow to radiator. you need oil pressure switch. that plugs into the phole by the oil filter half a quart is a lot for a couple days usually a shot motor or you have a pressureizing issue to cause huge oil consumption. PVC crank case vent routed correctly. that oil pressure sensor is made for a wire to hook up to it for the light to go out. but there is a diaphrame in there which can crack and cause a loss of oil. As this has happen to me to make it look like a oilpan leak. it would drain go dow the side then rought to the back to look like oilpan gasket was bad 1 Quote Link to comment
noramost Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 The dealers had you show proof of using 1 qt per 1000 miles to open a warranty claim of high oil consumption, it's normal to throw out a qt every 3k when it is due to be changed because of fuel dilution. One qt every 60 miles is the record I think, congratulations. When you change your block will be a good time to reseal your carb adapter. You should have the L Motor God build something up for you. 1 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Okay, so this is the part I need? https://m.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-pressure-switch/duralast-oil-pressure-switch/nissandatsun/620-pickup/123844_757608_8537?location= I don’t think there’s anything majorly wrong with the motor. The oil is definitely coming from the sending unit. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Okay, so this is the part I need? https://m.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-pressure-switch/duralast-oil-pressure-switch/nissandatsun/620-pickup/123844_757608_8537?location= I don’t think there’s anything majorly wrong with the motor. The oil is definitely coming from the sending unit. Yup... and it says it has the correct bspt threads so it should thread in properly... 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 yes that its. Mine was leaky. sometimes good to carry a spare in glove compartment as alot of people use a gage but use the cheap plastic lines and they crack over time to the heat cycles. One can use the spare as a plug to get home if a palstic line cracks 1 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Got the part today, and just finished installing it. I’ll run it for a little and make sure the leak is gone. Now I just need to buy the jets for the carb and hopefully I’ll be good to go 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Contact Pierce manifolds and let them know what carb and engine you have and ask them what jets they recommend for your setup. They are very knowledgeable on the Datsuns. I have been doing business with them for over 30 years. https://www.piercemanifolds.com/ 2 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Alright, will do. Thank you 1 Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted May 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Well I went ahead and ordered 150 and 160 main jets, and I finally got them delivered and installed. Truck is running great now! Thank you all very much. Only problem is after running it for a bit, I decided I wanted to pull a plug to check the color, and my socket slipped and I broke the ceramic part of my plug. So I’ll be picking a new one up and I should be good! Thank you all 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Most guys never post the results. It's nice to hear you got it figured out. Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted May 15, 2018 Report Share Posted May 15, 2018 Good read here on the Weber 32/36 dgv carb. I just put one on my rebuilt L16 in my Goon. It is running and idleing.it has some leaking at the pump aera. I believe I bought a couple of rebuild kits cause I got two carbs off a 240 Z way way back in the mid early 90's. I haven't done anything to the carbs ,just bolted one on the Goon to see what would happen. I will check out the Pierce site and get her tight end up. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.