Draker's 1972 1200 Sedan - "The Pickle"

[fivetenguy]

On ‎9‎/‎4‎/‎2018 at 4:18 PM, Draker said:

 

I have it a bath and it does leak a little bit. Not too bad though. I doubt this car will see much rain, so I'm not too worried about it. If it starts to leak a lot, I'll just go with the bigger seals.

 

I used the 3/4" seal. Not sure if it leaks, though. I haven't washed the car since my trunk seal leaks real bad.

 

 

Edited September 8, 2018 by fivetenguy

[Dguy210]

8 hours ago, Draker said:

The tops of the window fames are a bit floppy.. looks to be some flex from inside the doors. I haven't popped the door panel yet. Is there something that should brace this inside the door? 

 

Are they all like this?

 

The window frames were built separate from the rest of the door as they differ between coupe and sedan. They have a few spot welds if I remember right inside the door body that can break and cause them to move.

 

I just checked my coupe and it does not flex to any reasonable amount, so I would assume yours may have a broken spot weld or crack?

 

I was unable to find a diagram in a service or parts book that shows how this is attached unfortunately.

Edited September 8, 2018 by Dguy210

[Draker]

On 9/8/2018 at 7:04 AM, Dguy210 said:

 

The window frames were built separate from the rest of the door as they differ between coupe and sedan. They have a few spot welds if I remember right inside the door body that can break and cause them to move.

 

I just checked my coupe and it does not flex to any reasonable amount, so I would assume yours may have a broken spot weld or crack?

 

I was unable to find a diagram in a service or parts book that shows how this is attached unfortunately.

 

Thanks for taking the time to look. I think you are right.. probably a spot weld broken. This car has over 300k on the chassis, it's been well used. 

 

I'll pop open the door panels and get a look in there. Nothing a little welding can't fix I hope!

[datsunfreak]

14 hours ago, Draker said:

 

Thanks for taking the time to look. I think you are right.. probably a spot weld broken. This car has over 300k on the chassis, it's been well used. 

 

I'll pop open the door panels and get a look in there. Nothing a little welding can't fix I hope!

 

The spot welds he is talking about are at the front and rear edge of the door. I don't think you need to remove the door panels to see them? I would just push down on the frame next to where they meet the door shell? 

 

They are not only prone to popping spot welds, they often will crack at the front edge just next to where the spot welds are...

Edited September 10, 2018 by datsunfreak

[datsunfreak]

On ‎9‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 9:02 AM, fivetenguy said:

I used the 3/4" seal. Not sure if it leaks, though. I haven't washed the car since my trunk seal leaks real bad.

 

 

 

Is that round or square? McMaster-Carr?

[Draker]

2 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

The spot welds he is talking about are at the front and rear edge of the door. I don't think you need to remove the door panels to see them? I would just push down on the frame next to where they meet the door shell? 

 

They are not only prone to popping spot welds, they often will crack at the front edge just next to where the spot welds are...

 

To me it feels like the middle support brace is flopping around in the door. Both mounts at the front and rear feel okay.

[Draker]

Last Friday I adjusted the steering box about a 1/8 - 1/4 a turn. I gotta say I was skeptical it was going to make much difference, but it has drastically improved the slop and there is no binding near the locks. Now when I'm driving 60mph I'm not wandering all over the place as much. I think the tie rods need replacing now. I've got all the parts.. just waiting to put in the 280zx assemblies. 

[fivetenguy]

On ‎9‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 10:01 AM, datsunfreak said:

Is that round or square? McMaster-Carr?

That's square. Mcmaster-Carr part number #8694K51

Light Duty Blended EPDM Foam Strip with Adhesive Back, 3/4" Wide, 3/4" Thick, 25 Feet Long 8694K51

[Draker]

[Dguy210]

1 hour ago, Draker said:

 

Oh pretty. I really want to know how well these work, wouldn't mind picking up a set in the future.

[Draker]

I guess I'll find out. They use the same projector as the 575s which I have in the 510. The beam width is a little narrow on those. I fixed those by adjusting them a little lazy eyed. Worked out great!

[datsunfreak]

On 9/10/2018 at 1:57 PM, Draker said:

 

To me it feels like the middle support brace is flopping around in the door. Both mounts at the front and rear feel okay.

 

IIRC, that should be bolted to the inner door skin with two bolts. You will definitely need to pull the door panel to find out if they are loose, or not bolted down at all. 

 

On 9/10/2018 at 2:00 PM, Draker said:

I think the tie rods need replacing now. I've got all the parts.. just waiting to put in the 280zx assemblies. 

 

Do you already have the 210 lower bits? You will need 210 tie rods once you do the conversion but I'm sure you knew that. ?

Edited September 16, 2018 by datsunfreak

[Draker]

14 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

IIRC, that should be bolted to the inner door skin with two bolts. You will definitely need to pull the door panel to find out if they are loose, or not bolted down at all. 

 

 

Do you already have the 210 lower bits? You will need 210 tie rods once you do the conversion but I'm sure you knew that. ?

 

 

Pulled the door panel and found the bolt and washer laying in the bottom of the door. Will check passenger side sometime.

 

Yes, have the 210 lower bits for the conversion.?

[Draker]

Was installing the lights today and have been noticing some weird noises from the engine bay. This a14 has the alternator on the right side of the motor held on with a bracket. If I pushed on the upper bracket the sound would go away. Looks like the bolts were loose where the mount attaches to the block. Well.. turns out one was loose and one was broken off. Cool. 

 

I got the one bolt tightened back up. The other.. well gonna be a bit before I can pull the alternator and try to remove it. Hoping it comes out easy... fyi, no lock washers on the bolts. 

 

 

[Draker]

Got the lights installed last night. As anticipated, the beam width is very narrow for these projectors. Can be fixed by making them a bit lazy eyed. I have not hooked up the halo's yet, but this is what it looks like. Still need to adjust them a bit more. One of the plastic adjusters broke so I wasn't able to dial it in.

 

[Draker]

oh yeah... almost forgot.. These don't bolt in, you have to modify the 3 location nubs on the rear of the housing. They need to be shaved about 2-3mm for the headlight rings to mount, once that's done, they bolt right in. 

[datsunfreak]

17 hours ago, Draker said:

Looks like the bolts were loose where the mount attaches to the block. Well.. turns out one was loose and one was broken off. Cool. 

 

This seems to happen a lot. They used really small bolts for things they shouldn't have. ?

 

A lighter weight alternator helps a lot with this. That's the best way I've found for stopping the "broken alternator bolt syndrome" on As and L16s...

 

I have always in the past just cut a slot in the bolt with a Dremel and then they often turn out with a screwdriver... 

 

[Draker]

11 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

I have always in the past just cut a slot in the bolt with a Dremel and then they often turn out with a screwdriver... 

 

 

I hope I have enough bolt to slot. Fingers crossed!

 

I was thinking about going IR Alternator.. but I already have a list of todo's a mile long.. and the alternator is fine.. so I'll put it on the someday list for now.

[datsunfreak]

FWIW, this one is a 1 wire hook up, so don't need to change anything in your wiring. It bolts straight up to the stock bracket, belt spacing is correct, and it is half the size and weight of the stock alternator.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-CHEVY-MINI-DENSO-STREET-ROD-RACE-1-WIRE-400-52062-12180-SE/131207846796?epid=4021501570&hash=item1e8c98db8c:g:hD4AAOSwrFtaD4oR

 

Most produce 55-60 amps.

 

It is advisable to run a fat wire from the output post to the battery lug on the starter (if your battery is relocated) or directly to the battery (if it's in the engine bay) in addition to the stock wire that feeds the fusebox.

[datsunfreak]

Oh, we've used that same lightweight alternator about a dozen times to permanently fix the "chronic broken alternator bolt" syndrome.

Edited September 19, 2018 by datsunfreak

[Draker]

1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

FWIW, this one is a 1 wire hook up, so don't need to change anything in your wiring. It bolts straight up to the stock bracket, belt spacing is correct, and it is half the size and weight of the stock alternator.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-CHEVY-MINI-DENSO-STREET-ROD-RACE-1-WIRE-400-52062-12180-SE/131207846796?epid=4021501570&hash=item1e8c98db8c:g:hD4AAOSwrFtaD4oR

 

Most produce 55-60 amps.

 

It is advisable to run a fat wire from the output post to the battery lug on the starter (if your battery is relocated) or directly to the battery (if it's in the engine bay) in addition to the stock wire that feeds the fusebox.

 

In my case the battery is relocated. This particular one appears to be a 35 amp. Looks appealing though! looks like an easy swap. I take it this one is internally regulated as well?

[datsunfreak]

2 hours ago, Draker said:

 

This particular one appears to be a 35 amp. Looks appealing though! looks like an easy swap. I take it this one is internally regulated as well?

 

Yes sir, internally regulated. 

 

And I screwed up on the link. Just grabbed the first one I saw...  ?

 

There are usually 35amp versions for around $50, then 55amp versions for around $70, and 70amp versions for around $80. Just need to search "Denso mini alternator" on ebay and find one that suits your needs.

 

70amp version:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-ALTERNATOR-Fits-DENSO-STREET-ROD-RACE-1-WIRE-Small-One-Wire-NEW-70-Amp/282513310986?hash=item41c71b050a:g:THEAAOSwm8VUyrwZ

 

We always use the 55amp version, but I'd wager even the 35amp version puts out more than a used 1200 alternator does. ?

[Draker]

Ok.. I must have it. You should be an alternator salesman.

 

Stock is like 30 amps right? I'm guessing 55 would be enough. Not going to be running many electronics in this thing.

[Draker]

Also if you are planning to get the dapper led sevens and want the headlight covers, it's these:

 

https://www.amazon.com/XPEL-H9903A-Clear-Headlamp-Protection/dp/B002BI865U

 

Cheaper on amazon. Be sure it's h9903a though. Reviews show amazon gets parts wrong. Mine was clearly labeled with that part number.

[datsunfreak]

On 9/19/2018 at 9:29 PM, Draker said:

Stock is like 30 amps right? I'm guessing 55 would be enough. Not going to be running many electronics in this thing.

 

Stock is 30amp, yes. I've used the 55amp on cars with all the stock stuff, electric fuel pump, and some stereo added in with no issues. The 70amp is probably only needed for cars with EFI.